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Posted

Hey guys I just wanted to post a few pics of my lake trout jigging arsenal. I got the real image jigging spoons from cabelas in 1-1/2 and 1 ounce sizes. Also and more importantly I got fish head jigs for the soft plastics from cabelas in the same sizes as the spoons. Now here is the real question as you can see I have the zoom fluke on the jig head but it is no where near flush with the head due to the size difference. Will this deter the lakers from biting or does it not matter? Or do I need a swim bait on the back of the jig head that matches its size? I mean the hook is pretty darn large on the jig head so that in and of itself is kind of throwing me for a loop. I just want to make sure that these lures are gonna get the job done so I am not wasting my time out on the water.

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Posted

You don't want the fish to get much of a good look at the jig any way so those may well work fine as long as the hook is very sharp. If you want the jig heads that a lot of people use check out http://terrystackle.com/cart/index.php? ... 20a&page=7

You want the Gamma Ball jig 4/0 BN 1oz. I get my 1.5oz heads from a guy up on Oneida but I don't use em unless I'm in 90FOW. Always use the lightest jig head you can b/c you will feel the strike (often a faint 'tick') much better. Also lot's of plastics will work, your Zoom supers are good & so is an inexpensive plastic from Gander that is a light siver w/ black, it has a nice alewife profile. I've also had some success using modified Gold Star glow squid bodies from Yama****a. Overall I think technique and location are the most important aspects of deep water jigging. -Andy

Posted

Last year I used similar jig heads to what chowder is refering to. They were 3/4 oz. white jig heads from Gander and I used them a with 3" GULP minnow. That worked great for lakers in about 70'. I was anchored though so drifting with a somewhat light jig head was not an issue.

Posted

You want a heavy enough jig head that encourages you to make lots of drops -only bounce 2-3 times without losing contact w/ the jig and then retrieve and repeat- don't bounce,bounce,bounce,etc,etc- you want to trigger an instinctive, reaction strike.

Posted

Ah ok ok. I figured that the nice fish head profile would help with the realism and one ounce would really give me some good touch down deep. Should I maybe go to a fatter shad body to add some girth to match the head? I figure some decent size to the jig should not matter much, as lakers got some pretty big mouths. I am just trying to work with what a got rather than buying a bunch more jigs.

Posted

like chowder said you don't really want to give them a long time to look at it any way. you're looking for a reaction strike. i would use what you have first and i think you will see they will work just fine. it's all about the action.

Posted

One last question, I got some 3/4 ounce white heads today and they seem pretty darn awesome. I know they are not as heavy but in depths up to 80ft will they get the job done?

Posted
One last question, I got some 3/4 ounce white heads today and they seem pretty darn awesome. I know they are not as heavy but in depths up to 80ft will they get the job done?

If you got those @ Bass Pro you want to sharpen the hooks! 3/4 oz heads are good in 60 FOW but can be tough out much deeper, especially if wind is up and boat control w/ the bow mount becomes difficult. You want to be vertically aligned w/ the jig so you don't lose contact w/ it. -Andy

Posted

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Yes, those real image Cabela's spoons work...LOL. For plastics i play around with flukes, tubes, and my personal favorite has been the 3" Mister twister Sassy shad.....should see that paddletail flip on the drop down.... Whites and natural baitfish colors have been best.

Posted

Ha dude! I have exactly what you have! Good good this makes me feel alot better about having the right gear. I just picked up a TON of those shad bodies the other day.

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