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Posted

So I finally got a Boat. What are you guys running for batteries to your electronics. I have one for the motor. By the way its looking the only think on the cranking battery is the motor and nothing else. Will I be able to get a battery to run everything else. Lights Riggers sonar chartplotter itellitroll vhf cd player Bilge?

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Posted

Congrats Adam! I thought you were going to be my first mate this summer? LOL You should be good with a "middle-of-the-road" deep cycle battery (unless you have an electric trolling motor or some other energy hog). I would personally go with a Diehard from Sears.

Posted

I use interstate batteries on my boat 1000cca cranking and 1000cca deep cycle. I went through 2 duralast batteries from autozone they returned my money and I went and bought interstate for less than 100 dollars

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Posted

For your radio operation, in order to get full power for transmitting, use 10 gauge wire. With a fuse at the positive terminal, run the wire direct to the radio.

Posted

Another vote for Interstate! :yes:

I have my boat wired up that I have a dedicated starting battery for the engine and a deep-cycle for ALL electronics. When the main engine is running, the deep-cycle is being charged. As soon as I shut the main engine down, the two batteries are isolated so the electronics are drawing solely off the deep-cycle. This ensures that the main battery will remain charged and always be able to start the engine.

Posted
Misty IV: Just curious, how do u do that? Do you shut it off @ batt switch or something automatic?

It is fully automatic. I ran a commercial grade constant-duty solenoid between the 2 batteries. Ran a 6 gauge power line from the (+) post of the main battery to one side of the solenoid. Off the other side of the solenoid, I ran a 6 gauge wire to the (+) post of the deep-cycle battery. The (2) remaining posts on the solenoid are the ground and the trigger. The trigger is run to the wire that has (+) when the ignition key is in the "on" position. Essentially, when the key is turned to "on" or "run", the solenoid is energized, allowing power to flow through the solenoid and to the deep cycle battery, hence the alternator is charging both batteries. When I turn the key to "off", the solenoid is open, stopping power from flowing through it to the deep cycle battery. Pretty simple concept. You could use a battery isolator to do the same thing, but this way was WAY less expensive and I've had no issues with it in the 4 years I've been doing it this way. Deep cycle is fully charged by the time I am done running out to the fishing grounds and has yet to die on me after 6-8 hours of fishing with everything on, including running the electric Cannons up and down all day long.

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