Setup for dipsey diver with SD and fly ?

[Ddolan]

What is the best way to connect SD and fly to diver ? Is mono okay ? How much lie between dipsy and SD ?

Thanks for any input

[Missdemeanor]

30 plus pound mono. I usually use a little more than the length of the rod used as far as the leader goes.

[bottom-feeder]

30 lb mono works fine ( be sure to check it often and change if needed)

when fishing solo i run 4 or 5' leads but when others are on board i may stretch em out to 8-10'

[Legacy]

Nothing more than the length of the rod. 30# big game mono will work just fine and it adds a little stretch to a wire diver rig.

[Tim Bromund]

for flashers on divers I run 10 feet of 50 lb big game between the diver and flasher. It's not a stealth presentation so it doesn't hurt the number of hits you get and wire diver bites are the most violent you'll ever see. It depends on the size of your boat how long of a leader you can run, but the number of bites you get goes up the longer the leader is. I get a LOT more diver bites with the 10' leader than I did with the 6' leader I used to run.

Tim

[K Gonefishin]

Mine are about 7 ft plus I run a 12 inch clear snubber. I may take Tim's advice and go longer. I run 10's for walleye in clear water. I use 50lb Seaguar leader material for flashers and 30 for spoons (if I remember to change the leader)

[TyeeTanic]

I have a 10 foot 40# floro lead connected to my main wire using a micro swivel. I connect this lead to the diver. I then run a 12" snubber + 5 feet of 40# floro between the diver and flasher. Essentially what the fish sees is the diver, flasher and fly - with no line in between. I match the diver color to the flasher, so it looks like another fish.

With this setup up I was able to land 10 large fish on the flies last week in about 3 hours.

I can't say what would happen if I went from a 5 foot lead between the diver and flasher up to a 10 foot, however, I can say we had more than enough action on the boat to keep us all busy.

Mark

[K Gonefishin]

I have a 10 foot 40# floro lead connected to my main wire using a micro swivel. I connect this lead to the diver. I then run a 12" snubber + 5 feet of 40# floro between the diver and flasher. Essentially what the fish sees is the diver, flasher and fly - with no line in between. I match the diver color to the flasher, so it looks like another fish.

With this setup up I was able to land 10 large fish on the flies last week in about 3 hours.

I can't say what would happen if I went from a 5 foot lead between the diver and flasher up to a 10 foot, however, I can say we had more than enough action on the boat to keep us all busy.

Mark

What's the point of the extra 10 ft leader? Less connection points the better IMO, more could mean potentially just another spot to fail between you and the fish of a lifetime. Just a thought

[TyeeTanic]

K Gonefishin,

There's one good reason and it is not really related to where your mind is going with this. It is a trick I learned from members on this site.

With a wire rod, when dissassembling and putting it away, it is always a problem as the wire kinks over the guides when you take the two pieces apart and store together. A kink means a break in the future. If you use a floro or mono lead approximately 10 feet long, you can reel in the steel all the way to the reel and then leave the floro through the guides, which can take the bending around the guides.

It means the difference between being able to fish within 5 mins, or having to cut my wire line and create a new loop each time I go fishing (15 to 20 mins).

This is the main reason - the second is just a bonus, and that is to have a bit more stealth. The dipsey (with right color choice) can easily look like a fish and attract them to the fly/lure.

I use 40 lb floro lead, really good knots - nothing's going to break before my rod snaps in half.

Mark

[Mark Komo]

Excellent thread guys. I am all ears. Great tip mark with the extra flouro.

About to head over to slippery sinker to get my first 2 reels of wire.

[hawkeye625]

Ditto what Tim said. Started using long leaders this season and increased hits by roughly 50%. We try to keep them rod length 9 to 10 ft and also use 50lb big game. We were running 30lb and had a couple break off when the fish hit. Bumped to 50lb and haven't had too much trouble.

Just be careful with your drags if you choose to run 50lb. Your wire becomes the weakest link and you could loose your whole set up rather than just the fly and dodger.

Netting fish is a little tougher in my 19ft boat, but the added hits are well worth it.

We also use the double over hand knot to attach a quality medium ball bearing swivel to the wire. Only takes seconds to tie or re tie if need be. Do not skimp on your swivels these fish are beasts and will destroy cheap ones.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Tim Bromund]

K Gonefishin,

There's one good reason and it is not really related to where your mind is going with this. It is a trick I learned from members on this site.

With a wire rod, when dissassembling and putting it away, it is always a problem as the wire kinks over the guides when you take the two pieces apart and store together. A kink means a break in the future. If you use a floro or mono lead approximately 10 feet long, you can reel in the steel all the way to the reel and then leave the floro through the guides, which can take the bending around the guides.

It means the difference between being able to fish within 5 mins, or having to cut my wire line and create a new loop each time I go fishing (15 to 20 mins).

This is the main reason - the second is just a bonus, and that is to have a bit more stealth. The dipsey (with right color choice) can easily look like a fish and attract them to the fly/lure.

I use 40 lb floro lead, really good knots - nothing's going to break before my rod snaps in half.

Mark

Mark, for what it's worth, we break our wire rods down every time out as well because that's the only way they will fit in the cabin and I have never had a wire line break at any position I certainly never reterminated the big snap swivel much, only when the pigtailing got a little annoying and I cut the wire back a couple feet to get to smooth wire. I don't really think that is too much of a concern, the wire I replaced at the start of last season was 6 years old. If you broke a setup off, I suspect there was another cause. Drag too tight maybe.

In the morning I just put the rods together, snap on the divers and set em out. Besides, a dipsey diver with a flasher and fly is NOT a stealth presentation by any stretch of the imagination.

Tim

[Big Dave]

Thats one advantage to my one piece 7' ers they fit into the cabin just fine Tim is right the dipsie with the wire streched tight must sound like a marching band with the flasher flopping around. But they sure work!!!!!

[Ddolan]

Thanks for all the advice.....I appreciate your time.

Dan

[TyeeTanic]

All I can tell you is that I've done it both ways - with only wire and taking the rod apart and with a 12' floro lead and taking the rod apart - I can definitely tell you it is 100% easier taking and putting the rods apart and back together with the floro lead. With the two lengths apart I can still wind my reel to tighten any slack in the line. Putting the peices back together is also simple and quicker.

So, I'm not telling you to use it, but I find it myself much easier and the leader has never caused me any problems, so I'll stick with it.

[W.W.IV.]

I like the slide diver to get the extra distance between the diver and SD and fly. It's a pain in the ars to set up a slider on a 10ft diver rod in a 16ft. boat. I think they work better when the temp is above 70ft, they don't get down as far as the big divers but they will slide all the way to the SD if you let them but I think its better to stop then 2or3ft short of the spinnie, less mess.