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Posted

ive heard some guys talk about filling the gas tank before winterizing to keep condensation from building up in the tank. ive also talked to guys who say to run it down and put fresh gas back in in the spring. whats best? i have a 60 gallon aluminum tank(i think). thanks, mark

Posted

I feel your pain with the large capacity fuel tank. I have always topped mine off and added StaBil to reduce the area condensation can form in the tank. Never had any issues come springtime. And, with the spring runs, that fuel gets burnt off in no time anyway!! :yes:

Posted

Metal tanks should be filled according to my dealer. The reason being air and metal cause particles to form that plug up your filters and injectors. Plastic tanks should be near empty. More importantly, use Stabil Blue Additive in the proper amount as to have a safe supply of gasoline in the spring. Lawn tractors and other machines that have vented tanks need the Stabil Blue as they are having fuel problems also.

Drain the lower units as metal particles will flow out now better as they settle out and do not flow out in the spring. Refill immediately, check your prop for fishing line wrapped around it that will destroy your seal.

Posted
Metal tanks should be filled according to my dealer. The reason being air and metal cause particles to form that plug up your filters and injectors. Plastic tanks should be near empty. More importantly, use Stabil Blue Additive in the proper amount as to have a safe supply of gasoline in the spring. Lawn tractors and other machines that have vented tanks need the Stabil Blue as they are having fuel problems also.

Drain the lower units as metal particles will flow out now better as they settle out and do not flow out in the spring. Refill immediately, check your prop for fishing line wrapped around it that will destroy your seal.

The only thing that I would do different is the stabilizer being used. I would use "seafoam" stabilizer because this stuff also cleans out the carburetors and injectors.

Posted

Plastic Tank, I always fill it, add Stabil, fish a couple hours and winterize.

I fill it to prevent condensation.

NEVER had an issue in the spring.

Glen

Posted

I left the vent open on my portable plastic tank and found a few weeks later that my Cannon Downrigger laying on the carpeting was fused to it. Spinner beads were stuck to the rug also. It seems the alcohol has a solvent property to some plastics and it vents itself out through the open vent. So you will lose the alcohol in your tank as it must be more volatile to evaporation than gasoline. This must be why the water is there after a long period of time. So either close your vents if you can or be willing to lose the alcohol in your tank that you paid big bucks for. The gasoline companies say their gasoline is no good after a couple months also. Your automobile has a "check engine light" that comes on when your gas cap fails to seal properly and there is an expensive plastic check valve in the neck of the fill piping to release excess pressure.

Posted
i fill my tank for the winter and add some stabill. in the spring i suck it out and put it in my truck and my lawnmower cans.
old man, good tip!........ on another note, my penn yan manual says to empty tank and use fuel conditioner for any remaining fuel. was this the norm before the ethanol days? has condensation become more of a problem because of ethanol? thanks, mark
Posted

I saw a fish tug in Canada get its diesel fuel filters clogged up by a black slime. Apparently water in the fuel is where bacteria or mold grow and this black stuff like the mold you see on your Vinyl when the boat is covered too tight, grows in your fuel tank, feeding on the petroleum product and your filters are loaded with this black dirt that is actually mold particles. There is a biocide used by the tug engineers to prevent this growth in the fuel tank.

Posted

So what is the best way to drain the tank? Tubing size? Do you prime with your mouth (insert joke here)?

Posted

We removed the fuel level fixture and inserted a hose with a squeeze bulb from an outboard motor and a gas filter in the line. Slowly we filled gasoline cans and when the gasoline was mostly gone, we used a coat hanger wire with a rag to clean out the tank. A lot of water, dirt and mold came out with the rag. We ran the hose out the drain plug opening with the boat on a trailer. The dealers repair guys charge you about 5 bucks a gallon to dispose of the dirty fuel. After this we poured off the gasoline from the cans to make sure there was no water, added Blue Stabil and ran the gasoline into my truck. A good dealersaid to use 89 octane now as it is better for your motor. Be careful as this is dangerous.

Posted

I have a 62 gallon plastic tank that I keep close to empty with stabilizer and then fill it up with Hi-test in the spring . Never had a problem yet . I also use additives all summer (cleaner and stabilizer). When I change my water separator filter in the fall I never see much if any water in it .

Good Luck!!

Posted

That is what my dealer is telling me to do. He has to deal with problems you can not imagine every day and his experience is worth listening to.

Posted

thanks for the replies guys, most guys i talk to on the interenet say to fill it but ive talked to two marine mechanics that both say to empty it. probably just go with there advice. plus i hate the idea of leaving 60 gallons of fresh gas in to sit all winter. best, mark

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My wife used to have bail type canning jars out on our deck rail. They were empty in the spring when we put them out. By the end of summer they were half full of water . The heating up in the day and the cooling off at night, they drew in condensation and it trapped water in the jars. The empty tank will do the same.

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