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aluminum hull corrosion


gokudl3

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I am using advantech subflooring...they say it can be submerged for 50 years or something. 19.00$ for a sheet at morse lumber on main st.... I planned on using either rubber bed liner over that or they have rubber garage floor mats that are big and one piece would work

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few pics of how my deck replacement turned out.

The Durabak color is "Sand". The Durabak went on pretty easy. I could have gotten by with 2 coats, but I put it on until the cans were empty and got 4 coats on.

I also had to shim the dashes with some aluminum stock to make up for the thickness of the carpet that I lost. I am pleased with the results and can't wait to see how it performs.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You certainly can use the pour-able foam, I have used it, but never liked it. It can get water logged in 1 year, it will absorb water again. It cannot and never will dry out agian once wet.

I have done many boats what I like now is buying the reclaimed roofing insulation that you can find on Craig's list. Cut it into pieces that will sand up from the ribs to the floor and stack it in on edge. This give the foam the inch or so off the bottom of the boat, if your run long lenghts of it and cut it accurately it will just touch the bottom of the floor. This gives you allot of strength, flotation, a way for all the water to drain out, foam stays dry and can dry out, and is cost effective (less than 1/4 the cost).

Make sure you don't let any electric use the boat hull as the ground, wire everything (grounds) back to a buss bar, I know it will eventually find the hull as a ground but you want to control how and when and where. Make all the grounds go back to the the buss and then to the motor. You use magnesium anodes if your in fresh water, zincs if your in salt. Use the appropriate protection for galvanic corrosion with dissimilar metals, and shore power.

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