Wiring Electronics on a new boat

[retsey]

Hello guys,

The boat that I just purchased has a Garman unit that I will use only as the GPS.

The two batteries in the erar do have a 1-2-both selector switch.

It does not appear there is a buss bar inside the console to wire extra electronics.

But there is a negative buss bar in the rear hatch where the batteries are.

I need to wire the following :

- Sonar

- Fish Hawk

- VHF radio

- Troll master

My question is ...I was planning on running a new main power wire (with a fuse of coarse) from one of the batteries in the rear to inside my dry console to a new buss bar and ground that I can use for these four devices .

I was planning on mounting an on-off switch off the new main power for these devices so nothing drains my battery if I forget to shut something off.

Do you feel this is okay or would you wire the electronics differently....any suggestions??

Thank you

Marty

[spoonfed-1]

Ya that should be OK.

Make sure your switch will handle the current.

Just keep in mind if you get out on the water and you are getting interference on any components you might have to run an independent line to that component.

I get interference on my subtroll when I key the mike on the vhf but it's no big deal to me as it's very temperary.

Glen

[Ray]

retsey.

I rewired my boat last spring...

I ran 4awg from battery (in stern) to cuddy where my fuse block is located. The fuse block has my am/fm radio, subtroll, hummmin bird fishfinder(1158C), Lowrance (5200) GPS and there is no interference. I do not have a switch to turn it off, however, if I don't use the boat for an extended period of time, I simply pull the fuse.

I went with the following...

http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/products/5026

Ray

[retsey]

Thank you Glen and Ray,

Glen...good point...I believe I will run a second line but not connect it while I am at it as emergency in case I get interferenece with the VHF.

Ray, good suggestion about installing a fuse box. Makes sense to have all fuses at one place.

Do you really thing I would need 4 gage wire for the light current these would draw?

Plus, 4 gage wire would be very expensive.

Thanks again guys.

[Ray]

Ray, good suggestion about installing a fuse box. Makes sense to have all fuses at one place.

Do you really thing I would need 4 gage wire for the light current these would draw?

Plus, 4 gage wire would be very expensive.

Thanks again guys.

I only wanted to rewire once, so I did it with the heavier gauge as I knew I would not have a problem.

I used this wire...

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-RPR425-Ga ... 719&sr=8-1

[Gill-T]

Glen, on your subtroll did you hook up the small ground wire? If not it may be why the two are interfering.

[retsey]

yep ..I agree Ray...keep with a heavier gage. I just did not know if this would reduce current for so small draw of electrical.

I just pulled my manual for thr Fish Hawk and it says to run a seperate wire to the battery. I remember talking to Trvor at Fish Hawk and he said it's a good idea to run a seperate line also. I guess before it's all over with I'll be running all new lines and run them through a conduit tube or wrap from the battery to the console.

[spoonfed-1]

Glen, on your subtroll did you hook up the small ground wire? If not it may be why the two are interfering.

I hooked up the red wire to pos and the black to neg.

If you are talking about the thin blue wire, that is for display light and no I didn't hook it up.

[Hookedup]

Run the heavy wire like ray said to a 100 amp breaker with on off switch then from that go to your fuse box. Blue sea makes some nice ones I did the same thing and have 4 of them on boat now. Its nice when boat is not in use you can just hit the switch on the breaker.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=50554

http://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/21700/1d ... 975596.jpg

[retsey]

I like the ideas guys.

I will implement the ideas.

Thank you all

[david]

retsey, were both doing the same projects, are you putting your trollmaster on a new Yamaha 9.9ht. I couldn't find the number for the 2012 model , Thank's DAVE

[retsey]

Hello Dave,

I have worked out all the detailers with the marine that I will be buying the 9.9ht kicker from but have not purchased it just yet. I will place an order after the holidays. Actually , I was hoping I could pick up a 2011 for a few bills less.

I'm looking at $4,000 for a 25" with , power trim/tilt, external switch for tilt also, non tiller and throttle. They will be charging me $300-$400 to install the kicker on my bracket and run the throttle.

I questioned about the remote control feature that Yamaha show on the web site as an option and the salesman said he would get an aswer fro me to what that is for.

FYI...I do plan on purchasing an auto pilot down the road.

Dave...I am leaning toward the Sea Star kicker steer since my main motor allready has a Sea Star hyd steer.

What are you going with for the steer?

I plan on purchasing the Troll Master Pro 2.

Are you going to contact Troll Master to see make sure the Pro 2 is compatible with a Yam 2012?

Let me know what they say and if it is compatible.

If not...I sure will be before I Order the motor.

Keep in touch Dave.

Marty

[david]

Marty, I'm still not sure what i want for steering, I also have Sea Star hyd steer. My biggest problem is building a bracket to hold the kicker bracket, my transom has a builtin swim platform. I will contact Troll Master after the holiday's to see if they have them for 2011 & 2012 model's. Let me know about Yamaha's remote control feature. What kicker bracket are you going to use? I will keep in touch Dave

[retsey]

Dave,

I know what I don't want as far as a kicker bracket and that is one that pivots up, ect...

No reason to have one of those type if I'm buying a kicker with trim to lift the prop out of the water.

That is what I have now on my Crestliner and would not go for anything less.

Also, I don't need a $4,000 kicker rocking around on a pivot type.

I will have a local shop manufacture me one and have it galvanized.

I measured off my current kicker that is a 15hp , 4 stroke standard Yamaha (not high thrust) and I know the bracket needs to set out 13" to allow the motor to swing up and to give enough room for the cables, ect...

I'll give Yamaha and Troll Master a call over the holiday and we can compare notes.

This is what I have to work with. I plan on moving the swim platform to the others side and mount the kicker on the port side

Marty

[lakebound88]

For Steering, I would use the Panter T4 system for the size boat you have. I use it on my 9.9 yamaha four stroke HT and it works awesome, I can control it from anywhere in the boat. They also have a wireless option for it as well. Check it out, and you might like it!

[retsey]

Hello lakebound88,

Let me ask...are you able to steer it from your the steering wheel of your main motor and are you able to obtain full trim of both motors and turning.

I really don't want to operate a kicker from a remote control all the time. I am a muskie fisherman also and I like to watch the gps & sonar, make quick turns and hit weigh points.

[lakebound88]

Hello, no, the beauty of it is that I do not have to use the steering wheel. However I am able to trim both motors and turn full both ways. The T4 system is only attatched to the Kicker and kicker only.

nick