Same Side Multiple Dipseys

[Don Supon]

Is there a way to deploy a 2nd dipsey outside of the 1st dipsey without tangles? Always assumed you had to bring in the closer one first- is that right? Or could I run a mag on the inside (1 setting) and deploy a a smaller size (3 setting) with more line out behind the mag and not cause a tangle while letting it out?

Also, when running in-line boards off the same side, is there a way to get over other lines to get to the outside without tangles when lures are the same? Make any difference when dropbacks are different?

Could I safely deploy a copper setup over the top of another when using inline planers? How?

Lot of questions, but I need input as I hope to try these techniques in the spring. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[crumcake1223]

we have a 18' pennyann that runs 8 lines when in full swing for salmon. 1 coppre 2dipsy and a rigger off each side. we run the mag diver on the inside and a #1(i think but yes the normal size) on the out side. the inside is always less feet then the outside by normaly 100'. the mag is on setting 1 and the other dipsy is set on 3. it took some reel practis when we added the second dipsy's but with wire being $35 a 1000', well we learned fast. when first setting up we put rigger, inside dipsy, out side dipsy,and we stick in copper wile putting out one of the dipsy's from the other side.( i think that makes sence)

i will tell you i no longer use sliders on the rigger's when 4 dipsy divers due to the fact when redepolying the inside one im knowen for getting it hooked into the wire on the dipsy. it took some time but now we can get everything out in 5' waves in under 20 min.

good luck and tight lines

[chowder]

Mag on inside on 1, regular on 3 outside. Helps to run outside divers on longer rods to get some separation.

Multiple cores or coppers can be run off inlines with deeper lines to the inside, use caution on turns when the boards can get close.

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[Don Supon]

Thanks for the replies. I think I understand, now, how to deploy.

[crumcake1223]

things that will hit deeper depth faster is what we send out cloest to the boat so that way when you let out the next line should slid out over the top and stay away from what is already set.

[TyeeTanic]

Consistent with what everyone is saying. Put the deeper diver closer to the boat and deploy it first. Them the lighter diver then finally the board.

Remember as you let things out they will generally go deeper as there is less drag on the line and equipment, think of it sinking in still water. So letting it out slow helps avoid tangles.

[BlueEye]

Just bought my second set of diver rods this winter and was wondering the same thing. Thanks for info!

[Hookedup]

We run three dipsys per side, mag on 1.5 then either a mag on 3 or a number 1 on 2.5 then outside number one on 3.5. We let the dipsys out at same time but on a slow creep. With resetting the inlines just let your outside board run straight out the back. When you have enough line out to clear your other boards lock her down and it will go out and over your other board lines.

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[wet the net]

There is a nice thread on another site OGF covering this topic. The walleye guys do it and they call it speed setting dipsy's

 

Here is thread from a guy called Workdog. Hope this helps:

 

This is how I troll with dipsies, three or four to a side. I don’t in any way claim to be an expert here, but this works for me, and I can speed-set dipsies out at any speed above 1.5. All my dipsy rods are the same length (8') and weight (makes it easier to read the rods). My reels have line counters so I know exactly how far each dipsy is spread apart. I use 50 lb PowerPro for no line stretch. Their no stretch makes it easier to read your rods and trip your dipsies when you need to. I use only the big dipsies (size 1) with rings that I glue on (use “ShoeGooâ€). One dipsy size makes it easier to manage setback, and I need to git’r-on-down in the deeper water off Geneva to Conneaut. I use a snubber on the back of the dipsy with a 10 foot leader of fluoro. I number my rods, starting at stbd forward with number 1, stbd aft is number 4 with 8 rod set up, finishing up with number 8 on the port forward rod. I put the same number on each corresponding rod holder tube, and mark the number on the dipsy itself with a white pen (all my dipsies are black). Stick on numbers come off easily, so I use a dab of clear epoxy over the numbers—that will NOT come off. The numbering scheme helps avoid the dipsy rods being placed in the wrong order.

The rod holders are about 9" apart on a track. I have mine set up pointing straight out, slightly above horizontal. Some folks will say to point the rods at slightly different elevations or angles to get a greater rod tip spread, with the forward rod tip the highest, but I don't have a problem with the rods pointed out at the same elevation. The inside dipsy is in the aft rod holder, the outside dipsy is in the forward-most rod holder. Using the same make rods for all your dipsies, and the same line and type of lure per side, makes the rods easier to read. When the dipsies are running, the rod tips will each be bent about the same, so, if you pick up some trash or a small fish on one of the rods, the tip will be out of formation with the others on that side. This will be more noticeable with three or four rods per side versus just 1 or 2. When you initially set up, put the outside rod out first, then work towards the inside. Your dipsy settings would be #1, #2, #3, #4 (where #4 would be) if fishing 4 rods per side. I used to use #1, #2 ¼, and #3 ½ settings for 3 rods (#3 ½ is the outside rod and #1 is on the inside). The outside rod should typically be set 8-16 feet further out than the next inner-most rod. This will give you separation so your dipsies won't tangle. When I first set out new dipsies, I adjust the keel weights to get an even spread among the four on a side. Then, when they are running right I glue the keel weights in place so they never move again (smear Shoe Goo in the groove around the keel weight). I got my line out settings from Romanack's Bigwater book. I made a cheat card in PowerPoint with all my settings in 5 depth bands. When I mark fish on the locator at a certain depth, I use the appropriate program to get the dipsies down to cover a 10 foot swath of water. I laminated the cheat sheet and use it on the boat. Anyone setting out rods can put them out and, using my numbers, be pretty confident that they are not going to tangle dipsies. So, if I’m marking fish in a specific band of water, I tell the rod guys to use the appropriate Program number.

Speed Setting Dipsies: Say you get hit on a middle or outside rod. If you can speed set them there is no need to bring in all the rods on that side. Since the rods were set out with the outter rods a little further out than the inner ones, if you get something on one, that dipsy will usually pull up out of formation from the rest. Or, if you manually unset the dipsy, the lead lengths will usually allow the dipsy to avoid the others as it trails towards the back of the boat. I always leave the back of the boat open to bring in and set dipsies. When you set out a dipsy, let it out on the opposite back corner of the boat from which side it will eventually swim at. You will let the dipsy back at a rate just fast enough that the dipsy doesn't get behind the snubber and leader. If you let the dipsy out too fast, the leader (to the spoon) will wrap around the dipsy and the dipsy will either not swim correctly or not unset correctly when it gets hit. Conversely, you don't want to let the dipsy out too slowly. If you do, the dipsy will dig down to its running depth and tangle lines inside of its normal running position. That would be very bad. If let out properly, the dipsy stays above its normal running position as it’s being let out. When you're within 10-20 feet of the let back distance, move the rod over to the side the dipsy will run at and put the rod into the holder as you reach the correct distance back. The dipsy will slide over and drop down into proper formation with the other dipsies. This works. Give it a try. To minimize errors, nobody on my boat plays with dipsy keel weight settings but me. Also, by numbering the rods, I ensure that nobody places a rod in the wrong holder. That would also be very bad. Some dipsy keel weights unset easily causing tangle problems. That is why I glue the keel weights.

Other: Often times, with the fish few and far between, when we hit a Walleye I can quickly turn back around to get back on that pod of fish. You can make fairly tight turns with those dipsy rods without tangles. Just ensure you are going straight when you are setting them out. You cannot turn near as well when you have board rods out (particularly big boards). I've caught as many as 24 Walleyes within 200 feet of each other in a day (included several fish over 9 lbs in the same pod). A GPS with MOB and trace back feature is worth its weight in gold.
 

[Missdemeanor]

 Great Post WTN

[Don Supon]

I agree

[cprost]

With walleye and a multi-line set up, you can bring fish over the deeper inside lines. Does this occur with trout and salmon? I can image a king deciding to go deep wrapping up a dipsey and a downrigger. I want to fish more lines but don't want to pull them every time we catch a fish.