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steering with a kicker?how?


Kuba

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I have a 17 foot crestkiner boat, it has a 50hp motor that is controlled frim the console. I wantedto add a 6-8hp kicker for trolling purposes, how do you guys steer the boat if the kicker is not controlled by the steering wheel?

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Get a connecting link system that connects both motors together. That way you can steer either with the  steering wheel for big motor. Stop main motor- start kicker and steer with steering wheel. Caveat: you will have to adjust throttle of kicker manually. Remote throttle controls (likely electronic or manual) are available, maybe someone else knows the brands and they will offer their knowledge and explain them to you.   

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Not sure what kind of 50 horse motor you have but the older Merc 50 horse motors trolled down just fine even for pulling copper for lakers.

The Easy Steer connector is an option. It is basically a rod with slip fittings on each end that attaches to a bracket on the shaft your 50 horse on one end and to a fitting bracketed to the shaft of your small trolling motor. If it is set up right you will be able to lift either of your motors up and have the other motor follow its path without disconnecting the rod (e.g. when you are done trolling and want to get under way). The rod or bar is set to a given tension at the factory so that it adjusts itself at the fittings (you shouldn't mess with the factory adjustment either (unless absolutely necessary) to avoid problems. I used one for quite awhile before I realized that 98 percent of the time I can steer just fine by just positioning my small motor at just a slight angle and steer with my 135 Optimax but I also have hydraulic steering on that motor and both shafts are 25 inches (i.e longshaft). You may want to check your situation out before actually buying anything. The only time it isn't great is with a lot of wind and large waves but I can even do that if I crank up the speed.

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The easy steer allows you to steer from the main wheel. I always disconnect mine when I'm running on the big motor, it takes about two seconds. Remember to engage the trolling motor in reverse when you are running with the main. This keeps the prop from spinning when the trolling motor is not in use (just something my dealer told me to do). If you can get the Troll Master this will allow you to control speed right from the main seat of the boat. Best investment I made on my boat.

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My boat came with a 50hp mercury elpto, 2008.

I have been trolling with it and it does job just fine, I just want to have a backup and something more efficient. I usually wonder of to 300ft deep water which is around 5-7km from shore.

don't want to get stuck in the middle of the lake with no motor :)

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I just added one of these units as a combination mount/steering device: http://www.remotetroll.com/.

 

It looks and operates great on land, I just need to get out and test it in the water.  I like the idea of not being tied to the steering wheel, but was not quite prepared to jump into an auto pilot.

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The easy steer allows you to steer from the main wheel. I always disconnect mine when I'm running on the big motor, it takes about two seconds. Remember to engage the trolling motor in reverse when you are running with the main. This keeps the prop from spinning when the trolling motor is not in use (just something my dealer told me to do). If you can get the Troll Master this will allow you to control speed right from the main seat of the boat. Best investment I made on my boat.

I wouldn't put it in reverse if it hangs in the wake a little.  Mine has actually started itself when left in gear.

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Ya we were on full plane wot and my buddy turned around and motioned to the little motor I pulled her off plane and went back checked out and Id be damn the little 8hp was sitting there idling.

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I have a 17 ft starcraft with a kicker and just us the 90hp main motor to steer while trolling as it acts as a rudder and works good. The only time I may have to reach back and move the kicker a little is when trying to troll against a strong wind\med waves which I try not to do anyhow with a smaller boat.

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On the starting issue mine did the same three times when left in gear running back in. Problem with that is you get reduced water intake on the kicker and it hurts the impeller. If you have done this make sure to replace your impeller. It could ruin a trip if the impeller fails. I was quite surprised as well. first time I thought we just forgot to shut it down. Second time the light bulb went off. third time was brain lapse to take it out of gear.

 

Spike

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  • 1 month later...

Bringing the old topic back......

 

Went out today for a while. waves were somewhat 4-5 feet, it was not a pleasant ride for my guests..... :)

Anyway.... before the weather turned it was somewhat ok, but still a little bumpy. I tried to do what someone here suggested keep my 6HP High Thrust kicker straight and steer with the main that was in the water. That did not work so well, as soon as i put the main in N, the boat would turn no matter how hard i turn the wheel. So i guess i need an easy steer bracket.... My question is, when i get the bracket and lets say im coming out of water on the boat ramp i usually lift my main up. I also leave it up for the trips, it has this 3/4" pin that i push in and then lower it so all the weight of the main motor is not sitting on the hydraulics.

How will that work with an easy steer??? does it have like a quick disconnect thing??

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before you go and spend the $$$ for an EZ steer maybe you'd think about a piece of 3/8" all-tread with (2) 90 deg. bends. I have done this between my 150 ETEC and my 8 hp evinrude kicker. The bends in the rod are 1 up and 1 down the main motor gets the down bend and the kicker get the up bend with a wing nut to keep it in place. A Pro Troll is the top vote for throttle control.

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Like Lund SSS I made my own steering rod with 2 pieces of aluminum tubing (one smaller to slide in the other) and a hitch pin to connect/release

 

The hitch pin allows for a quick get away if conditions get hairy without completely removing the rod while hanging over the back

 

Like you Kuba, I had trouble using the kicker while trolling....If I was just using the kicker for just emer power then it would steer OK if it was 1/3 throttle or more......as soon as the throttle was down I had no steering using the main motor.......so a steering rod was just the ticket

 

post-151807-0-10775000-1366763010_thumb.jpg

 

post-151807-0-29058300-1366763031_thumb.jpg

Edited by Willy-C
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Lund SSS, would you post a picture of your setup?

 

Willy-C, nice! and simple! i was thinking about fabbing something of my own before, but did not want to loose any warranty on my brand new kicker. One question for you, would you be able to take a closeup picture of how it attatches to your kicker, and to the main? I'm assuming you are using bolts to have it attatched to the main?

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Kuba,

 

materials scrounged and engineered by the seat-o-the-pants university

 

main engine mount was a piece of flat bar stainless steel cut and welded with two 3/8-16 hex bolts welded for the steering rod to connect ......drilled, bolted and nutted  thru the engine cowling (twenty year old motor- no warranty issues) 

 

the kicker (brand new last year) has no holes where the bracket is,  just two SS hose clamps......that bracket was made with a piece of thick SS sheet metal (maybe 10ga) also with two 3/8-16 hex bolts to form the other place to connect rod...... it was tricky to get the bends right but works great

 

if I was to do it again I would change the wing nuts to using air quick-connects (same type on air hoses)......seems they would be easier to connect and swivel

 

the hitch pin works great but have since added a flat tang on the larger tube near the holes where they connect to help line the holes up (using pinky finger) when hanging over the back

 

post-151807-0-69412000-1366772066_thumb.jpgpost-151807-0-32812600-1366772086_thumb.jpg   

Edited by Willy-C
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I now use the threaded rod connector available from West Marine. It has releases at each end making it easier to disconnect the kicker engine from your main engine. You do not have to hang over the transom to disconect it. When you drop the EZ Steer rod in the drink and replace it, it really hurts your wallet. I learned this after dropping a couple and now I am happy with the threaded rod deal.

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I now use the threaded rod connector available from West Marine. It has releases at each end making it easier to disconnect the kicker engine from your main engine. You do not have to hang over the transom to disconect it. When you drop the EZ Steer rod in the drink and replace it, it really hurts your wallet. I learned this after dropping a couple and now I am happy with the threaded rod deal.

I use basically the same thing and had the same problem with the ez steer before making the change.  Mine came from gander but cabelas has the same thing here.. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/Boating-Accessories/Boat-Steering%7C/pc/104794380/c/104706180/sc/104602680/Auxiliary-Motor-Connector-Rods/700014.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fboating-boating-accessories-boat-steering%2F_%2FN-1100610%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104602680%3FWTz_l%3DUnknown%253Bcat104794380%253Bcat104706180&WTz_l=Unknown%3Bcat104794380%3Bcat104706180%3Bcat104602680

works alot better for me. 

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All of these ideas really depend on how much your time is worth.  I just bought one of these: http://www.jmsonline.net/panther-marine-auxlry-mtr-steering-kit-zinc-552401.htm

 

 

For the $36 I didn't have to worry about piecing something together or trying to but little parts here and there.

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Kuba,

 

Measure the distance between the 2 motors with both straight and come up with length of your bar. null_zps70cda6f2.jpgthen bend your rod by heating it ( this will help be more accurate with the bends)  Hope this helps, in total I've got about $6-7 into my "EZ steer"   

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