Snap Swivels or direct tie of stickbaits for Spring Browns?

[buckboardjr]

I was tying flouro leaders on last night and have always direct tyed my stickbaits. I even used loop knots for the non splitring stickbaits. Was wondering how many people still do well with small snap swivels. This sure would expedite bait changes!

[DoubleG]

I put a small barrel swivel at the end of the main line and attach the leader to that.  At the end of the leader, at the stick bait end, I use a Spro snap.  Makes changing stick baits quick and easy.

 

http://www.spro.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=261

[Don Supon]

I rig with a barrel swivel connecting the leader to the main line. At the lure end, a snap with a round bend tip.

[overthelimit]

Duo lock snaps. Tie with a palomar knot and lure changes are a cinch.

[Sk8man]

Small black duo locks at the end of fluoro leader and very small barrel swivel to main line. Have them pre set up (do it at home) for different tests in little plastic bags so I don't have so much screwing around in the boat (e.g. trying to tie in the wind/cold hands etc.).

[flybuster]

Pretty much the same as everybody, I prefer spro's because I haven't had one fail "yet". Costly but worth it. I run a size 10 power Swivell between main line and leader and I think it's a size 2 ball bearing with interlock they have a nice egg shaped curve on them

[buckboardjr]

Thanks guys!

[John E Powell]

By using only a light snap or a loop knot, you are missing the opportunity to tune the action of your stick baits to the fish’s mood. Many lures like Bombers and Rapalas floaters can be made much more effective by tying directly to the hoop and moving the knot above or below the lures centerline (where a snap or loop would run).

 

For example, when you slide the knot to a position below the centerline (see picture) the stick bait tends to become unbalanced and takes on a wild erratic shake and roll that draws a lot of attention at slower trolling speeds. This position tends to overcome some of the lures natural diving ability making the lure run shallower which can be very productive for shoreline spring brown trout or for thermal bar rainbow/steelhead fishing.

 

 

Please note the location of the Palomar knot on the hoop. I call this the 8:00 O’clock position. Many times positions from 7:30-8:00 and 10:00-10:30 are far more productive than a loop or snap sitting at the natural position of 9:00 O’clock.

 

Sliding the knot above causes a slightly deeper dive and a more nose down profile with exaggerated wobble. Runs slower to normal speeds.

 

Sliding the knot below causes a shallower dive (the seagulls will be very interested in these) with a very exaggerated wobble and roll. The ‘bows assassinate these along a thermal bar and browns can't resist them in the springtime super shallow ice cold water. Runs slower than normal. In this position, if it flips and rolls to the side or upside down, make sure the knot is centered left/right and slide the knot towards 9:00 O’clock just a little.

 

Lastly, any fish will slide the knot to 9:00 O’clock so you will have to reset the knot location after every fish. Make sure to check the action alongside the boat on every lure before you set it out – some lures can be very finicky.

 

This will work with many lures, but not all. It works better with floaters vs. deep divers.

Edited April 14, 2013 by John E Powell

[buckboardjr]

 John,

I will surely try this. Thanks for going the extra mile.

[John E Powell]

Your welcome, let me know how it worked for you.

[Mr.Esox]

Itie directly to the line and use the top of the eye hook there is better action imparted on the lure try it.

[John E Powell]

Itie [sic] directly to the line and use the top of the eye hook there is better action imparted on the lure try it.

 

Mr.Esox, I believe we're in agreement, but I just want to clarify...

 

As I wrote above, you can tie both above and below the centerline, each location gives different actions. Match the knot location and the resulting lure action to the individual lures, water conditions, and aggressiveness or passiveness of the fish. One location is not better than the other all the time.

Edited April 17, 2013 by John E Powell

[Mr.Esox]

Mr.Esox, I believe we're in agreement, but I just want to clarify...

 

As I wrote above, you can tie both above and below the centerline, each location gives different actions. Match the knot location and the resulting lure action to the individual lures, water conditions, and aggressiveness or passiveness of the fish. One location is not better than the other all the time.

a.

Agreed John but I have done better tiring to the upper half.

[Adk1]

How is this knot going to hold in one spot with all of the drag on it due to the lure?

[Sk8man]

By using only a light snap or a loop knot, you are missing the opportunity to tune the action of your stick baits to the fish’s mood.

 

I just take out my mood ring and expose it to the sun and shine it at the fish to make the determination

[John E Powell]

How is this knot going to hold in one spot with all of the drag on it due to the lure?

Any knot with two wraps of line around the lure's hoop will hold it's place until a significant load is applied to the lure. A fish, or bouncing into the bottom will slide the knot, but the lure's action itself won't. Remember that with significantly increased action, you will be trolling slower so there will be less drag.

 

Fill your bathtub and give it a try. You'll know which of your lures can and can't be tuned in this way before getting out on the water.

Edited April 24, 2013 by John E Powell

[Adk1]

Thanks that seems simple enough