Trailer maintenance

[Roughrider IV]

Last year was my 1st trailering a dual axle boat rig I bought used 2 yrs ago. I've picked up a couple pointers on what not to do. The trailer is a load rite 2000 issue and the axles have a hole drilled to the inside for overflow grease . This may work with non pressure covers with just a grease fitting but when using bearing buddies I stop putting grease in when the spring STARTS to move. This is not enough pressure to move the grease thru the back side hole, in turn allowing water to enter brand new hubs from the inside. Hence the bearing buddies blowing off from steam pressure. I ruined that axle and have replaced it with a non drilled axle for overflow grease. The other axle is being cleaned out then pumped with fresh grease with a needle fitting then plugging the inside overflow once its full. A lesson learned the hard way when the bearing left loose. I also now carry extra hubs and brake parts hoping I'm prepared for next road trip. Hope this helps someone hitting the road to Ontario soon.

[jimski2]

Most important for trailer wheel bearings is the type of grease used. The old brown wheel bearing grease degrades with the road salt and high temperatures causing your trailer tire to start flopping around, scoring the bearing surfaces of your axle and putting your rig in a ditch.

 

A better idea is to use the blue high temperature disc brake synthetic marine grade grease. Bearing buddies can have you put too much grease on your bearings also and this condition will cause heat to form and lose the bearings. Depend more on the quality of the grease used rather than the bearing buddies.Before you take your rig on the road now, jack up each tire, spin the wheel and listen for growling, squeeking or scraping sounds. If noise is present change the bearings now at home rather than in a ditch somewhere far from home. Check the tire air pressure also. When you stop after travelling a while, do a walk around and touch the wheel bearings to see if heat is present. Heat is no good and if you are putting the trailer in the water the contraction of the metal will suck water into the bearings.

[Thun]

I always bring a grease gun and while I'm letting them cool down, pack them with grease before putting the trailer in the water. I figure if they're full of grease, less water will get at them.

[Roughrider IV]

Always used amsoil marine synthetic. I also carry a heat gun to Check hub temps during stops. When I got home from last years problem I jacked up opposite tire, gave it a spin and it sounded dry. Replaced with new hubs and bearings. I have rollers and will refrain from submerging axles if at all feasible in the future.

[Roughrider IV]

Just installed new master cylinder on trailer, 2 yr old unit was rusted inside so I got a fresh one. I bleed the brakes with a compressor and one man bleeding system, worked really well but took a while to suck the fluid thru, about an hour, keep switching sides till both we're air free. New hubs, brakes, leaf springs, master, reversing selinode, the spare parts are now emergency parts, and a new tundra too tow with.

[buckboardjr]

Great discussion but I am surprised someone hasn't chimed in on the importance of high quality bearings. Timken bearings teamed up with marine grade grease is a winning combo. I ran china, Yugo,and Japan bearings against Timken in my 2 boat trailers and the Timkens shine when it comes to corrosion resistance. This last year I had to pay double for the Timkens and wait to get them but I like the extra insurance. Lot's of replacement hubs come with china bearings in them.

[Roughrider IV]

Took the boat , trailer out for trial run this past weekend, change in prop size got me darn on max rpm and 34mph which figured out to 8 percent slip. Actually picked up around 1000 rpm over prop that came with the boat. If your not at or around max range which is 5800 to 6300 for my suzuki , you could ruin you engine. I went from a 18 pitch 3 blade to 15 inch 4 blade, hole shot better and holds plane at 4000 into a stiff wind. Trailer looked good till I got home and raised tires to check new bearing installs . I had play in all 4 tires so I pulled hub covers and tightened hand tight again . I got another nut side edge tighter. Hard to figure that out as I put 20 lbs pressure on them with a wrench to seat bearings then backed it off and hand tightened at initial install. Bearing temps with gun reached 115 at disk brake axle, pads are new and a hair too close , I can spin tire 2 revolutions till it stops, temp was lower on return trip home. Going to continue jacking trailer after trips to keep an eye on it .

[Chas0218]

I replaced my old worn out hydraulic brakes with an electric and never looking back.  It has been going on 3 years and pads are in great condition and the backing plates are in great shape too.  I just simply unplug the lights before backing it into the water and never had any problems.  I also replaced all my bearings when I did the brake change.