What to look for in older trolling boat

[idn713]

Hey guys, I may be interested in aquiring a 1983 sportcraft 222 with a 4.3l merc and 4 down riggers. Now I am thinking that this could get me into the salmon scene but I also don't want to walk into this blind.

What things do I need to be super diligent about checking and what are warning signs that I should check for?

Please let me know as I want to be a diligent and informed buyer.

[John E Powell]

I'd recommend you have the boat surveyed by a pro. It's usually money very well spent. Especially on a 30 year old boat.

 

You can try to negotiate an agreement with the seller that if the surveyor discovers a major structural problem that is a deal breaker, you'll split the cost for the survey.

 

Here's an excellent resource: http://www.marinesurvey.org/

Edited April 14, 2013 by John E Powell

[Kuba]

X2

[Xxx]

That boat went from $5000.00 to $1500.00 in less than a year, Either the guy is desperate for cash or I'd be very cautious, even at the $5000.00 that was a good price the trailer is a 2007 or so and 3 scotty downriggers are well worth what he is asking, with that being said Either it's a deal of a life time (with this economy) it is possible, or there is a reason many members from here didn't buy it. Approach with caution and on here some one posted what a boat surveyor does and how he goes about his business, really good article, read that stuff it's pretty much  no brainer what to look for once you read the article. I wish I had that information before I bought my boat, 2 years later I finally got it running, complete rebuild, and reconstruction of the motor mounts they were to soft to hold down my new 355 cubic inch mercrursier, that my uncle did for me, he has a motor rebuild shop that specializes in circle track racing.

[idn713]

Hey thanks for the heads up. I am aware of the price drop, I am in more of a trade situation right now so I am not looking at spending any money. But ya I agree. This boat should be priced around 6-7K with all that is on it. So I just want to keep my wits about me.

Nothing is a done deal and I really love my boat which I would potentially trade. But this could also be a good opportunity. Also let it be known that this is in no way a reflection on the seller. I just want some extra knowledge.

[Kuba]

Just to be honest, i would stay away from a 30 year old fiberglass boat, unless it was trailered all the time and not kept in the water.

[BAZOOKAJOE]

Have the stringers checked!

[Jolly II]

http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/index.php/topic/35725-great-article-about-marine-surveys/

 

Legacy posted this last week.  An article about marine surveys, and things you can look nad find on your own that would be deal breakers, before you even hire a person for a full survey.

 

It's an excellent read.

[Little Crappie]

Just to be honest, i would stay away from a 30 year old fiberglass boat, unless it was trailered all the time and not kept in the water.

[Little Crappie]

Just to be honest, i would stay away from a 30 year old fiberglass boat, unless it was trailered all the time and not kept in the water.

[Little Crappie]

I'd second that... I had a boat I sold because I just felt there was bad mojo. (Fiberglass 1980 21ft) and I still see it for sale on clist for 2 years. An survey goes a long way because a bad boat just turns into a land boat lol

[ac holmes]

I have posted on the topic of stringers before, but will add a little more to the thread.  The standard construction practice of encapsulating wood stringers and transom in fiberglass almost always leads to rot in the wood eventually.  It is next to impossible to keep all water out of those areas.  Even a screw hole or two as well as stress cracks, can introduce enough water that will slowly rot the wood.  The rot spores are already there and just need water and warmer temperature to get activated.  It is very difficult to determine the early stages of rot without drilling some cores through the class into the wood and have the shavings analyzed.  The last boat that I had surveyed resulted in the need to drill a series of 1/8 holes along the connection of the bottom of the stringer box to the hull, and as we worked our way to the transom, the shavings got darker and darker and the dark brown shavings smelled like rotted wood.  Most boats have stringer rot, and it probably does not make much difference for years and years, but eventually structural weakness will be critical...especially where the motor mount lag screws go into the stringer box.  Most folks discover the stringer issues at the motor mount lag bolts, especially if the motor is flopping around a little while running.  Lots of older boats that are used for charters have had new stringers and transoms done.  It's a big job and is best left to the pros.  I would guess that an older boat may or may not be worth the expense of replacing stringers.  There are some work arounds like putting angle iron along the stringers to distribute the load over a longer stretch of the glass and resin stringer box, and tap machine bolts in the iron and replace the lags that were no longer very functional in the rotted wood.  Often, depending on the boat, the glass and resin stringer box is a strong structural element even if the wood inside is rotted, and remounting the motor as mentioned above can provide a few more years service.  This decision must be made by someone who knows a lot more than I do about hull design and engineering.  I am just reviewing my own experience with several boats that I am familiar with, some that I owned, and some that I nearly owned, until we drilled the holes.