Rapala knot or snap swivel

[portbayfisherman]

I was wondering what the best way to attach your line to stick baits for browns.  Do you just tie a rapala knot and if so do you remove the split ring that comes on it when you buy it? or should i just use a snap swivel so i can change the lure more quickly?  Thanks, i'll take any spring trolling hints i can get, new to it.

[LongLine]

The rapala knot is a very tight knot and as such can alter the action of any plug that doesn't have a split ring on it depending on whether it's dead center on the eyelet, towards the top or towards the bottom.

 

Even with a spit ring observe the position of the "split" in relation to the plug eyelet. 

 

I prefer to use a snap swivel because currents can cause the plug to do some strange things, especially rotate & twist your line pretty bad.

 

Tom B.

(LongLine) 

[Sk8man]

Try using a fluoro leader with a either a Fast snap or Duolock snap at the terminal end and a small barrel swivel at the main line end of it.

[Has Been]

LL  I think you should review  what a rapala knot is. It is specificly tied to leave  a loop so the nose ring can pivit freely. I much prefer a small as possible split ring I have in the nose of every stick I own. Snap swivels are to big IMO'except for bigger sticks'  & hamper the action . A small Duolock snap is an option also if you do not want to retie every time you change.

 

 Most important thing about stickbaits is to tune them properly.Ask Mike.

[LongLine]

You're right I was thinking of a palomar ....ooops....my bad.

 

Tom B.

(LongLine)

[jimski2]

Avoid split rings at all times. When the big ones hit, they will stretch out of shape and the flat edge will sever your line. Luhr Jensen lures have been around for decades and they always use a solid ring because they know the faults of split rings.

[Legacy]

We all seem to agree the best option is to tie direct. It seems to provide the best action on the bait. And I would suggest if your not running leaders i would tie direct. I like to just use a dbl surgeons loop.

At this point, I leader all of my rods no matter what my mainline is. I tie my mainline to #3-4 barrel swivel to 12' of fluorocarbon to a #1 size duo lock snap. I went to snaps for ease of use and the fact i was burning through fluoro leaders from retying.

[John E Powell]

When I use minnow style plugs at normal to quick trolling speeds I tie a loop knot to the hoop. But then I troll at slower speeds, like in the early spring for browns or late spring along thermal bars for 'bows, I tie tight to the hoop with a Palomar (yes feed the whole lure through the big loop) and adjust the knot location to a spot other than along the lure's centerline (where the loop knot would naturally rest.

 

By using only a light snap or a loop knot all the time, you are missing the opportunity to tune the action of your stick baits to the fish’s mood. Many lures like Bombers and Rapalas floaters can be made much more effective (at slow trolling speeds) by tying directly to the hoop and moving the knot above or below the lures centerline (where a snap or loop would naturally run).

 

For example, when you slide the knot to a position below the centerline (see picture) the stick bait tends to become unbalanced and takes on a wild erratic shake and roll that draws a lot of attention at slower trolling speeds. This position tends to overcome some of the lures natural diving ability making the lure run shallower which can be very productive for shoreline spring brown trout or for thermal bar rainbow/steelhead fishing.

 

 

Please note the location of the Palomar knot on the hoop. I call this the 8:00 O’clock position. Many times positions from 7:30-8:00 and 10:00-10:30 are far more productive than a loop or snap sitting at the natural position of 9:00 O’clock.

 

Sliding the knot above causes a slightly deeper dive and a more nose down profile with exaggerated wobble. Runs slower to normal speeds.

 

Sliding the knot below causes a shallower dive (the seagulls will be very interested in these) with a very exaggerated wobble and roll. The ‘bows assassinate these along a thermal bar and browns can't resist them in the springtime super shallow ice cold water. Runs slower than normal. In this position, if it flips and rolls to the side or upside down, make sure the knot is centered left/right and slide the knot towards 9:00 O’clock just a little.

 

Lastly, any fish will slide the knot to 9:00 O’clock so you will have to reset the knot location after every fish. Make sure to check the action alongside the boat on every lure before you set it out – some lures can be very finicky.

 

This will work with many lures, but not all. It works better with floaters vs. deep divers. Large diving bills tend to overpower the effects of knot location.

Edited April 21, 2013 by John E Powell

[Has Been]

I have used split rings for decades w/ minimal probs, If you use quality ones . Split rings come stock on most every lure you buy,spoons ,sticks, J plugs. alltough I see jump rings on most flashers & dodgers. If they come on spoons , you can't chnge the hooks if you want.  Had that problem w/  Krocodiles & Suttons,so I cut the jump ring & add a split.

 

 I use to use Johns method, but there are to many varibles in the equation for me.Have to tune every time you get a hit,but it does work. I will take my split rings any day of the week on my sticks for  consistancy.

 

 One thing ........... make sure when you tie that the split in the ring  is one side or the other of the knot or lure