dipsy setup question.

[BALLS DEEP]

Just purchased my third and forth dipsy rods. I'm going to run mags on the inside and number ones on the outside. Does anyone have any tips, pointers or things I shouldn't do?

[quality time]

P.M. sent

[brettsplace]

Be sure to put your inside dipsy's on a 1 setting and your outside dipsy's on a 3 setting. You also may want to stagger the length behind the boat too, your outside dipsy being the farthest back. Hope this helps

Brett

[BALLS DEEP]

Thank you. Which is best to send out first, outside or inside? I have read that some people set the inside First and some people set the outside.

[John E Powell]

Since an inside magnum diver will run deeper, I set that first. When I set the outside diver, I let it creep out under drag tension and it will stay outside and above your inside diver. Sometimes you will nail a fish on the way out and this can indicate that fish may be hot for a slightly slower troll or a shallower feeding bite is happening (fish marked deeper on your sonar are charging up to feed on shallower bait out of "preferred" temp).

Edited May 10, 2013 by John E Powell

[TyeeTanic]

Since an inside magnum diver will run deeper, I set that first. When I set the outside diver, I let it creep out under drag tension and it will stay outside and above your inside diver. Sometimes you will nail a fish on the way out and this can indicate that fish may be hot for a slightly slower troll or a shallower feeding bite is happening (fish marked deeper on your sonar are charging up to feed on shallower bait out of "preferred" temp).

 

Actually I think you should let the outside diver out first.  Reason being it doesn't matter how slowly you let it out, there is always much less drag on the dipsey when it is being deployed, so it will sink deeper and be closer to the boat as you let it out.  So you may as well let the outside dipsey go first then give it time to grip and get out of the way.  The inside dipsey can then be deployed and this will immediately sink deeper and to the inside of the boat, away from the outside line.  If you do it the other way around, there is a chance that the outside diver sinks deep enough and close enough to the boat to cross the inside line and tangle.  Remember all tackle stays to the center of the boat (or close) until the drag bites into the water and pushes the tackle away.  So it is better to work from the outside in, or you have everything running in the middle.

[John E Powell]

Actually I think you should let the outside diver out first.  Reason being it doesn't matter how slowly you let it out, there is always much less drag on the dipsey when it is being deployed, so it will sink deeper and be closer to the boat as you let it out.  So you may as well let the outside dipsey go first then give it time to grip and get out of the way.  The inside dipsey can then be deployed and this will immediately sink deeper and to the inside of the boat, away from the outside line.  If you do it the other way around, there is a chance that the outside diver sinks deep enough and close enough to the boat to cross the inside line and tangle.  Remember all tackle stays to the center of the boat (or close) until the drag bites into the water and pushes the tackle away.  So it is better to work from the outside in, or you have everything running in the middle.

Mark, your way, if you catch a fish on a high diver, are then your going to reel in your inside deep diver so you can reset your high diver in clean water? I don't think so - you're going to reset your high diver over your inside diver which is what I suggested you do in the first place.

 

The point of my original answer is a skilled troller needs to know how to remove and reset any single rod in a spread without having to disturb other rods. For example, If you have three inline boards out per side and you catch a fish (or want to change or check a lure) on the middle or furthest line, are you going to pull the inside inline planer in? A skilled troller should be able to reset a inline planer outside of one closer to a boat without having to move the inside inline planer out. It's no different with divers.

Edited May 10, 2013 by John E Powell

[TyeeTanic]

John, I don't think your second post is addressing the question. I agree, if you know what you are doing you wouldn't pull lines to redeploy a diver (unless currents are crazy).

But if you are starting fresh with no lines in the water what is the better way to deploy? I still say outside first for the good reasons I pointed out above.

[hermit]

How about the inline board and one flatlining with no dipseys on either?  Say I want to set a board out with another rod on the same side just pulling a stick.  How would I go about doing all this without them interfering?  Neither lure is running more than 10 feet down for example.  Do I need to keep the distance back on the flatline rod shorter than the distance I set the board?  

 

If I have it 150' back I don't really want to set the board out more than that, or even half that.  Or would I actually be better off running two inlines off that side?  I can make it all work with deeper stuff but can't figure out how to do it while targeting the top 10 feet or so.

[TyeeTanic]

Well if no lines in the water then let the board out first. If there's the flatline in the water already for instance because you just got a fish on the board then in my mind you have two choices. If you have a rod holder way up high say on a radar arch you can put the flat line up there and then deploy the board under this line. If not you probably have to retrieve the flatline before you redeploy the board.

The problem is the flatline will be running on top of the water right behind the transom. For the board you need to let out your leader before the board hits the water. Once the board is in the water then letting it out slowly will get it to the side, but at the risk of the leader tangling first with the flatline. S really if you can't get the flatline up and above the leader, it is risky business.

[John E Powell]

When setting an inline board while running a flatline, move the flatline to the opposite side of the boat from the inline board a few minutes before you begin to let out the inline board line. When you move the rod, depending on factors like wind, wave, troling speed and direction, and dropback length, it can take a couple of minutes for the flatline lure and line to move directly behind the rod tip.

I usually add a 2-2.5" bobber in front of a flatline lure for four reasons. First, the bobber will let you know for sure where the flatline is trailing behind the boat relative to the boat wake. This is helpful when setting or fighting fish on other lines. Secondly, it tends to help keep the flatline between the rod and bobber at the surface; hooked fish on other lines will pass under your flatline greatly reducing the chance of tangles and when setting your inline planer lure your flatline will be held above the inline planer lure. Thirdly, if a larger fish on another line is running line out you can freespol the flatline to keep the bobber behind the rampaging fish. All these tips apply to mono, leadcore, and copper flatlines. Lastly the bobber can be placed closer to the lure on mono flatlines to keep a lure shallow to both avoid bottom snags or keep the lure right at the surface for surface feeding fish.

Edited May 11, 2013 by John E Powell