I might be pathetic...

[procastinator]

Several years ago I decided to put downriggers on my Searay 268. It was quickly realized that the back was way to thin to try mounting anything on it.  I hired Great Lake Planners to make some brackets which attach to the back corners and extend several inches out and away from the back of the boat over the swim platform.  That idea may work for you.

[Dandyeyes]

You cohld mount a track from traxstech between your wells and get some bases for the riggers then u could slide the riggers in and out of the track at will. Good for using th3m and then removing them easily for traveling. Or you could put a trolling bar over the transom and then you could slide stuff all over the place back there. Visit traxstech.com and you can check different layouts for the boats and get their number and give them a call.

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[YodaMage]

Think I got her solved.

 

Ordered:

 

http://tandlproducts.com/versa-ball/ times two.

 

https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2221-8347-1885-x-0325-x-5-325-channel-6061-t6-aluminum-extruded.aspx 72" piece

 

 

 

With a few holes drilled, a couple of backer plates and a few washers I think this is exactly what I need. About $200, about 20lbs, quickly detachable. Perfect! Never heard from Traxstech and was prepared to give them almost $600 to get to the exact same point really, so win for me, loss for them.

[skipjack]

Im taking my versaball's off my boat. They will slip. And for me I have to take my trolling board and riggers off to fix. There are holes to but set screws, but with around3000 plus dollars hanging by them I really don't feel the need to make them weaker by putting more holes in them.

[mrclean]

If you can run a board across and above the doors with enough height to open them, you should be ok. Then get yourself 6 foot booms and mount the riggers with a swivel base. The trick is mounting the stacks properly. some boats like mine have a curve so it needs to be calibrated correctly so it holds tight and secure...keep in mind alot of pressure will go on when your running multiple riggers.(in the photo below  you can see the black stacks (ionized metal at the right angle bolted in)

 

My issue was the outboard, particularly lifting it out of water. Yours is the hatchet openings (from what I saw in the pick). Ive had the same board for 20 years now. I am actually replacing it sometime this year but its still solid...Its some piece of ash I bought from a lumber yard.

 

 

 

 

Dont worry about the board being too high, just measure the clearance of the hatchets and see what you come up with....

 

If your going to use downriggers you would want some sort of board for that. If its too high as I described then put hinges on each end and a center stack where you could simply latch it up while fishing....

 

You definitely have a tricky senario here...

Edited May 22, 2013 by mrclean

[YodaMage]

All new electronics and wiring done. Glass work all done. Rough mechanical done. 

 

Next stop, oil change engine and outdrive, add a fuel water separator that isn't there, new belts, new bilge pumps, new water pump, new seals, new bellows..maybe a few other things when the universals/gimbals and such are exposed. We'll see what else is worth getting into when outdrive is off. Probably new plugs, wires and coil too. 

 

Anything else worth looking at, replacing and such while I'm at it?

 

Getting close to seeing if it floats, LOL!

[King Slammin]

I had a board with four riggers on my 96" beam. It was a pain to net fish over and was too cluttered. Switched to two riggers only (one on each corner at a 45 degree angle) and couldn't be happier. I just run sliders, two dipseys, and two copper lines on boards (sometimes four dipseys, whatever the fish want) just my two cents, but i had invested a lot of coin into the board with the ball cradles, stanchions, and extra riggers, not to mention time.