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Stinger hooks on laker jigs?


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I've been jigging a little with swim baits. I've done pretty well, but have experienced the ever frustrating and dreaded short strike. It's cost me a couple tails on some of my favorite plastics. Do any of you run a small treble stinger hook tied off to the shank and run through the bait to the other side? I've been experimenting with different ways to rig them. Curious as to whether anyone else is doing this and if you thinks its a good idea.

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They used to sell pre set up stingers that had a very small treble (maybe # 10 or 12) on thin wire (like a light gauge 7 strand look to it) with a very tiny barrel swivel at the other end. You could carefully slip the barrel swivel over one of the hooks of your main hook so that the stinger dangled below it and the barb pretty much prevented it from slipping back off. or you could tie it off with very short piece of mono if the hook was too big  worked pretty good in the old days....another version is made from mono and I have a few down cellar .....let me go check and I'll take a pic.....

 

Here it is:

 

Basically it is a short 3 inch piece of mono (about 15 lb test in this case) with a small #10 or 12 treble at on one end and a (large or extra large is the size) Kwik Klip (Fast Snap) at the other and two crimps carefully used in place of knots. attach the clip to the eye of the jig and let it dangle They can also be used for"short hitters" when trolling spoons by attaching them to the split ring at the hook end of the spoon or the hook eye itself (especially larger spoons so it doesn't impair the action).

post-145411-0-84129400-1371769181_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sk8man
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You might want to consider putting one of the hooks on the treble through the  base of the tail on the top one and I think I'd try running the second one further toward the tail since you mentioned that they took some of the rear portion of  the rubber off. Just a thought....

 

Another thought....one of the reasons wire and stiff mono was used for the other stingers I mentioned is because when you are pulling upward on the jig the stinger drops more vertically rather than flopping around as it might with (more flexible) braid....never used braid on them so don't know for sure....

Edited by Sk8man
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Here's the rig I use when running a stinger.  Just my preference seen plenty of ways to do it. To combat the floppiness of the braid the hook gets run through the swimbait twice, once before the jig hook and once after.  It works best if the stinger is either in front of the tail or behind it like in this pic.  If the hook is even with the tail it interferes with the swimming action.  I like to use a heavy line for the stinger as it can get chewed up pretty good after a few fish.  I used braid the first time b/c it's what I had, it worked, I stuck with it.

 

The braid is tied in a loop with a double overhand, then the stinger is added, then it's looped either through (sometimes tough to pull knot through) or around the base of the hook eye.  I leave the tag on the overhand knot to help pull it through the hook eye (edit: until it's rigged, then it's cut).  In this pic it's around the base of the eye. That's a size 2 Gamakatsu octopus and one of my slightly lumpy 1 1/4 oz heads. The trickiest part is getting the length right and is why I use the loop and double overhand, it's relatively easy to snug the knot where I want it.

stinger_jig.jpg

Edited by hermit
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1 1/2 oz. trolling sinker, fat end gets a #4 split ring & a #2 Gamakatsu treble, guess you could use a 4/0 wide gap worm hook if you have to catch every one ;)  stuffed up a 4" heavily salted Bass Pro flipping tube in white works for me  ;) ( I have the sinker mold if any local "LOU" members wanna borrow it)  8) I don't know about the rest of you, but I get bored during the Winter months, plastics,& molds, both hand pour & injection are pretty cheap, the next "laker killer" lure color could be right around the corner :beer: Cheers :)

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