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Posted

Can't really tell by the photo if there is clearance but....

It appears your toggle mounting bolts are in pretty deep since I see a lot of the thread.Can you thread the toggles all the way out and add a nice shim on the outside of the boat between the transom and the motor mount. This will shift the complete motor back and may give you enough room for the steer bar to just miss the back (inside of the motor) mount???

Posted

I added two holes at a 1/2 inch from the bottom of he bracket and capped the exposed threads. I am going to put a bar on the front of the motors from threaded hole to threaded hole for steering.

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Posted

Put the steering on today for less than $10. I used a 4' piece of flat steel with 3/8" holes. I cut it in half and pinned one end to the kicker and the other to a 3/8" bolt with a wing nut on a hand made bracket to extend the flat steel out from the main  motor so the bar doesn't run into it. The flat steel swivels at the wing nut.  Hopefully, I'll be taking it out tomorrow to see how it does.

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Posted (edited)

Put the steering on today for less than $10. I used a 4' piece of flat steel with 3/8" holes. I cut it in half and pinned one end to the kicker and the other to a 3/8" bolt with a wing nut on a hand made bracket to extend the flat steel out from the main  motor so the bar doesn't run into it. The flat steel swivels at the wing nut.  Hopefully, I'll be taking it out tomorrow to see how it does.

By using flat stock with wing nuts  you will have a hard time raising the kicker and the wing nuts will vibrate themselves loose. This is the one place where a Stearns  motor link steering with ball jointed connectors is the best way to go. the ball joints  will allow you to raise and lower the kicker without forcing and/or bending the bar. You can bend and shorten the bar and fit it to your needs.

 

I got one a few years ago at Gander mountain for $25 ,they will probably be around $30 now

Edited by rolmops
Posted

Just skip buying the Stearns or Panther one and go to http://www.mcmaster.com/

You can buy the ball-joints and threaded rod in stainless for way less and it will last forever. I used 5/16 for my last one because the stainless rod is much stronger than the plated steel. I think the whole thing shipped was like $18. The stainless kit by Panther is $70-80. If you need a hand digging up the exact parts off their huge site let me know.

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