2 Dipsy per side question before i end up with a mess!

[MarkNY]

i have a 4 dipsy setup for this year but havent used it yet because im worried about tangles. my plan is to run the deep diver on a 1.5 on the holder closest to back of boat and second diver on 3 shallower on the next holder forward. my question is can i run the number 3 setting diver out over top the 1.5 diver that is already down? i can picture that 3 setting tangling the deep diver as it goes out to the side. thanks, mark 

[bottom-feeder]

yes you can mark

 

I run 8 '6 rods inside and 10'6 rods outside

[landingzone]

It helps if you let the second diver creep out so that it pulls to the outside rather than dropping too quickly.

[Tim Bromund]

It helps if you let the second diver creep out so that it pulls to the outside rather than dropping too quickly.

 

you should let ALL divers out that way, actually.

[Gill-T]

I try not to pass the outside dipsy across the inside. Helps to have a 10' dipsy rod for the outside diver to extend the diver outside the track as you deploy. As others have stated...creep them out slow and make sure you tell the driver you are letting them out and to keep the boat straight. Easier still is to use a mag diver on inside and #1 dipsy with a mag-sized ring on the outside diver.

[MarkNY]

Thanks guys. i have 2- 9'6" rods and 2- 10'6" rods. all same model, same reel, same wire. was just thinking that depending on what rods get hit, i cant put them out the same way or in the same order everytime without reeling in one or the other. gonna try it tomorrow and see how it goes. best, mark

[Gill-T]

Go to the Blood run tackle site and print out their dipsy trolling dive curve figures to figure out your diver program.  I like to have each diver 20' apart in depth.   

[skipper19]

Helps to move your deep diver rod to the chute, or tip it up straight in the holder, temporarily , until you get your wide diver out a good ways. More separation during deployments is always better. Remember the dipsy going out is going slower through the water and has a tendency to drop deeper and come closer inside, especially on a 3 setting. The weight on the dipsy pulls it down inside on dropout due to the slower speed on let out. Very slow on the out. Creeeep....

Deep inside one is not so much an issue as you can let it out off the stern and then move it to gunnel as its going out, it will find its place inside the high diver without issue. Boat straight. No wild currents. No big waves. No fast direction changes. Any of those changes everything.

Mark

[MarkNY]

thanks guys. ive seen guys running 2 dipsies per side and also a copper outside on a board. how is that done without tangles? a few years back i had a couple tangles with a copper and dipsy and havent dared trying it since but it would be nice to have the whole spread out when in searching mode. my goal is two dipsies per side, boards out with copper or leadcore and 2 riggers.  best, mark 

[John E Powell]

Start the day with your outside lines first then work towards the center, it's just easier that way as you can let things out more quickly. During the day when you have your diver lines in the water and you want to let your planers out, let out your copper/core, attach your board, let the board out with minimal tension, just keep the planer upright but not so much tension that it starts to pull to the side. Once you get the board well behind the boat, tighten the line and let the planer pull to the side. It will be well behind your divers.

 

If you are running two or more inline planers per side, you can change outside planers by dropping your rod tip into the water and holding it there for a minute or so as you troll forwards. All the line between your rod and planer will now be in the water and will drag back your planer somewhat. Don't be in to much of a hurry to reel it in because as the planer drops back from the extra drag, that copper or core behind it will sink a bit because it is going slower as the planer falls back. In a minute or so, it will have fallen behind as much as it is going to and will again be running the same speed as before and will raise back up in the water column. I usually wait about 30 seconds to 1 minute after the planer stops falling back behind the boat. Then, hold your rod tip low and bent towards the opposite side of the boat and reel the planer in very quickly. Keep the rod tip low to the water, Do not raise the rod tip until the planer is close enough to the boat that raising your rod tip will lift it out of the water.

 

When running a rod down the chute, add a large 4" or so cork bobber to your line after you let out your copper/core. Then let out more line and run this so the float looks to be about 100' behind the boat, When your small to average size fish hits on other lines, freespool this rod for a minute and let the cork float fall back to 2-300 feet behind the boat. All the line between your rod and the float will be on the surface and usually fish hooked on other lines won't tangle this unless they jump over the chute line (which is very rare). If it's a large fish, a screamer, just reel the chute line in like you normally would instead of letting it back. Keeps your chute rod fishing instead of reeling this rod all the way in and out for every fish hooked on other rods.

Edited July 12, 2013 by John E Powell

[MarkNY]

thanks for the reply john. i should have mentioned that i run otter boats not inlines... im going to start tomorrow by setting riggers, then copper outside on the boards then one deep dipsy per side and if things are good maybe try running a 2nd dipsy on a 3 up above the inside dipsy. but if the copper goes and i have to send it back out i cant see any other way than to pull that outside dipsy,,,,

[John E Powell]

I would think that if you maintain a reasonably straight troll and speed, and have your dipsy rod horizontal to the water, you should be able to send your copper out over your diver just fine.

Edited July 13, 2013 by John E Powell