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Posted

just have a question out of curiosity, I have a boat with a 85' 4.3L Chevy with a points and cond setup, I plan on converting it to and Electronic set up, I've already Identified and new upgrade set up so I should be all set there, the question is it possible to swap out the distributor with one out of a automotive application with a mechanical advance similar to the old Prestolite setup (BID)?

Posted

john,

 I upgrades my ignition  system last year from points to electronic it is very easy conversion takes less than an hour. mine was a merc 4 cycl. iron duke. I believe if you change the distributer like you are talking about you will need to tell whoever you order you kit from because it will be a different kit than stock. one other thing to note is you will likely have to buy a different coil to run the electronic ign. if I remember correctly it needed to have at least 3ohms of resitance.

Posted

I had an 89 OMC Cobra with points.  Installed a Pertronix Ignitor and a Pertronix Flametrower coil.  Excellent results.

Posted (edited)

All the electronic components in boat engines are double grounded and insulated to prevent any accidental spark . Automotive parts do not have that level of safety precautions. Unless the part is safe for marine use and it says so on the packaging,do not use it on a boat.

Edited by rolmops
Posted

All the electronic components in boat engines are double grounded and insulated to prevent any accidental spark . Automotive parts do not have that level of safety precautions. Unless the part is safe for marine use and it says so on the packaging,do not use it on a boat.

well, that answers the question on why not to use automotive. I also read about maybe having to change coils, plus on my set up I will have to add in a electronic interrupt switch. Well as everyone knows what BOAT stands for. 

Posted

Electronic ignitions are very good these days and when I repowered my boat I went with the Pertronics also easy to install basically remove the rotor condenser and points and install the electronic plate which screws into the exact same spots the points and condenser were fastened. I didn't even pull the dist. and I purchased 2 right away and kept all the goodies that went into the dist. Just in case something fails out on the water, with a fully electronic dist. should fail your done. I feel with a points system, carrying a new condenser and a set of points I can make it back in, that's why I purchased two electronic plates, everything has a pro and a con. The new electronic Dist. definitely make for quicker starts and better engine performance, but when they fail your done unless you have another Dist. where with point and condenser there's always a way to make fire at the plugs. Maybe I'm just old school but I know I can make the motor run with a points set-up, and I carry a spare coil also. My uncles are always busting me about the weight I carry just in spare parts and tools, They call me the floating mechanic LOL

Posted

I'm with you there PAP, carry a spare alt starter plugs belts fuses filters wire connectors and tools. Hate to be broke down and helpless.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Electronic ignitions are very good these days and when I repowered my boat I went with the Pertronics also easy to install basically remove the rotor condenser and points and install the electronic plate which screws into the exact same spots the points and condenser were fastened. I didn't even pull the dist. and I purchased 2 right away and kept all the goodies that went into the dist. Just in case something fails out on the water, with a fully electronic dist. should fail your done. I feel with a points system, carrying a new condenser and a set of points I can make it back in, that's why I purchased two electronic plates, everything has a pro and a con. The new electronic Dist. definitely make for quicker starts and better engine performance, but when they fail your done unless you have another Dist. where with point and condenser there's always a way to make fire at the plugs. Maybe I'm just old school but I know I can make the motor run with a points set-up, and I carry a spare coil also. My uncles are always busting me about the weight I carry just in spare parts and tools, They call me the floating mechanic LOL

i hear you and Tileman about spare parts, last summer for my points and coil took a dump out on the lake and had to be towed back (at night, what a bummer), needless to say i most definitly started carrying spare parts with me. i'll add in, it looks like that fiber piece on the points that ride on the lobe wore out and caused the points to stop opening which must of caused all the rest of the failures. 

I also just picked up a new used good distributor for it too, seeing how my dwell reading where getting to the outer limits of the specs. next is to get the update kit for it. Do I need to change coils too?

Posted

I had an 89 OMC Cobra with points.  Installed a Pertronix Ignitor and a Pertronix Flametrower coil.  Excellent results.

did they recommend changing the coil too? Or did you do because you wanted too? and did you also have to do anything with your ESA?

Posted

John:  The coil is not that expensive and the old ones do get tired.  Best results are with the Flamethrower. Buy the setup on line for the best price. 4.3  V6 Chevy engine with a Prestolite distributor was my setup.  My newest boat is a 2001 Sportcraft  272 inboard  and last year I broke down in Mexico Bay , turned out to be the coil. 

  If you have an late 80's or early 90's OMC Cobra, the shift interrupt switch setup will not work with the Pertronix setup.  The shift interruptor circuit is most likely burned out as they were junk anyway.  There is a circuit you can easily build to keep it if it is still working, you can find the info on line.  In my case, I just turned the idle down a bit and all was good.  I did the Pertronix on 2 late 80's V6 Cobras the same way and had no problems.  Both are sold now.

Posted

not worried about buying a new coil for it, if that's whats called for. the coil in it now only has maybe 10 hours on it. sounds like I have the same basic setup as what you had. as far as the interrupt switch, if I remember right mine was still working, one of the concerns I have with lowering the Idle is stalling at the exact wrong moment (docking). I will look on line for that circuit setup or just get a ESA from on line.

Posted

If you press on the microswitch on the linkage and the engine stumbles its worrking

Sent from my SM-G730V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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