Need the curent best pricing on Raymarine EV-200 Sport Pilot Autopilot - T70159

[Chas0218]

Chas

 

Do you have a pic of the enclosure?  My mounting plate is in clamps right now….the Azek needs glued together with PVC cement.  Ill post up some pictures in a bit

I made it a little too deep so I had to trim it up and shorten it.  I will get a picture this weekend of it mounted to the dash.  I can still sit in my seat and see over over it.  I have also removed the side plates as it made it harder to see from an angle.  Hopefully next year I can Have it mounted next to an a78 versus my 2 older units.

 

Edited May 19, 2014 by Chas0218

[vetting]

Took my boat out for the first trolling trip of the season.  There is a small amount of slop in the wheel but I think that might because of a little bit of slop on the woodruff keys.  If there is the smallest of gaps between the key and where it catches, then that because a huge about of slop when you expand that out to the size of the wheel.  Either that or there is some slop in the unit itself.  Really doesnt matter to me because once I left the gas dock, we motored 7 miles away, trolled for 5 hours, did a bunch of circles going after coho and I touched the wheel 3 times then entire day.  Doing turns whas a breeze - just turned the nob a few degrees, let stuff settle, turn a few degrees more - made for a really smooth circle with no tangles.  We had conditions from somewhat calm with 1 footers to windy with 3 foot rollers.  The pilot went a little nuts when we were in the trough for a few minutes in 3-4 footers - but then again stuff was being flung all over the boat and my passenger was getting a little nuts too

 

Without being able to fine tune the amount of response there is besides the 3 levels, the little noisy bastard does crank away constantly.  However, you soon tune out the noise and it keeps a almost perfect track at 2mph. 

 

Overall its a great unit and makes fishing so much more enjoyable.  Being one who owns the boat, a lot of you probably sutferfrom the same situation I have - always taking so many different friends/family out, you end up being like an unpaid charter.  You drive the entire way to the spot. You try to get someone to steer straight while you set all of the lines, then you man the wheel the entire day because no one else knows how to drive a boat at 2mph without doing zigzags.  With the autopilot, it removes about 90% of that "work" so you can enjoy your time on the water.  And who know, you might feel the need to reel in a fish or two on your own boat

[vetting]

I just finished my install as well.  Got everything all in place and wired up to the Seatalk NG backbone.  I have yet to launch the boat and do the dockside calibration.  

 

Vetting…Try playing with that setting.  My impression is if you put it on "powerboat" or "performance"…whatever that one is…the drive unit really tries to keep you super tight straight.  So when going slow i.e. trolling…it will kinda zigzag to the point your lines / rods may get tangled.  You want SLOW GRADUAL change.  Try it on the other settings like cruise or leisure.  That MAY help. Not sure why your EV1 won't calibrate.  Ill look into that.  I also remember reading through the  manual and seeing "Gain" settings…which may need some tweaking for you.

 

I have a question now…After installing the drive unit to the steering wheel…I now have about 1/2 - 1 inch of slop when turing the wheel clockwise / counter clockwise before the outdrive actually starts to turn.  Have any of you guys noticed this?  I had a small amount of it PRIOR to installing the drive, but It seems like I picked up some more.  Everything is mounted up tight.

 

Turns out I dont think the compass calibration is even needed.  It figures out all of that stuff on its own and I think that was just an override setting. 

 

For the slop in the wheel, what brand of steering do you have?  I have a morse unit which isnt as common.  Does there appear to b some slop as to when the brass inner wheel of the Sport Pilot catches?  If eventhing is bolted tight, that would lead me to think that the slop is where the unit slides on the woodruff key on your steering shaft.  I know with mine I had to use my original small woodruff key instead of the large one they say to use in the directions.  Granted they are the same thickness, but there still may be a small gap.  I even had to trim my small woodruff key because it was sliding out of place and the back corner was rubbing on the back plastic of the Sport Pilot.  The small key didnt fit perfect in the first place because the tappered collar that they give you in the kit didnt go back far enough. 

 

A way to test it would be to remove the wheel and everything but the sport drive.  Then spin the shaft by hand (or with a padded pliers) and look to see if the slop is in the drive unit itself or between the brass inner ring and the actual streeing shaft. 

[Chas0218]

Being one who owns the boat, a lot of you probably sutferfrom the same situation I have - always taking so many different friends/family out, you end up being like an unpaid charter.  You drive the entire way to the spot. You try to get someone to steer straight while you set all of the lines, then you man the wheel the entire day because no one else knows how to drive a boat at 2mph without doing zigzags.  With the autopilot, it removes about 90% of that "work" so you can enjoy your time on the water.  And who know, you might feel the need to reel in a fish or two on your own boat

This is what I am happy to hear.  I have everything hooked up in my boat except my hydraulic pump (EV-100 power) because I haven't had my copper pipe cutter the last 2 times I have been up to fish.  When you posted about "fishing" in your own boat and only one being able to drive was spot on.  I have friends that like to go out but don't know how to do the rigging or drive so it makes it really hard to drive and set up gear.

 

Glad to hear it takes the work out of fishing.

Edited May 19, 2014 by Chas0218

[vetting]

I think that was the first fishing trip that I didn't have to cuss at anyone

[Chas0218]

I think that was the first fishing trip that I didn't have to cuss at anyone

Wow I can't imagine a trip like that, it's been sooo long! LOL

[vetting]

On a side note - I could have stayed out there 10+ hours if I had the time to.  You have no idea how much more relaxing it is to actually just fish rather than fiddle with the wheel the entire time.  Wont have to take a 3 hour nap anymore after early fishing before a evening trip.

[Dipsey]

Well said Vetting. Spot on.

[jigstick]

Here is a picture of the mounting bracket I made out of Azek.  No 3.5in hole in my dash now!

 

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Heres how my dash layout turned out

 

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I looked into the slop that I got after installing the drive unit.  It is coming from INSIDE the drive unit.  All my woodruff keys are tight.  Absolutely no slop on the steering shaft.  The slop only comes when I install the new shaft coupler for the steering wheel to go back on….the part that gets screwed on with 4 bolts and an allen key.  That is where my slop is.  Anybody else have 1/2 on play there?

[jigstick]

Well I went and launched the boat today.  Did the dockside setup and sea trial.  WOW.  This thing is NICE NICE NICE.  Trolled me straight as a laser at 1.8-2mph.  Worked wonderfully under power as well.  The trickiest part of the calibration for me was setting the "hard over time" and rudder limits.  I had to tinker with them until I got the perfect amount of port - starboard movement on the outdrive.  But other than that…AWESOME.  

 

For you guys that have it installed, have you noticed that your voltage on dash volt gauge will jump a little bit when the autopilot is engaged?  Mine does.  But I think its normal.  The Sportdrive must pull a decent amount of amps.

[vetting]

Well I went and launched the boat today.  Did the dockside setup and sea trial.  WOW.  This thing is NICE NICE NICE.  Trolled me straight as a laser at 1.8-2mph.  Worked wonderfully under power as well.  The trickiest part of the calibration for me was setting the "hard over time" and rudder limits.  I had to tinker with them until I got the perfect amount of port - starboard movement on the outdrive.  But other than that…AWESOME.  

 

For you guys that have it installed, have you noticed that your voltage on dash volt gauge will jump a little bit when the autopilot is engaged?  Mine does.  But I think its normal.  The Sportdrive must pull a decent amount of amps.

I let mine with the Hand Over Time and Rudder Limits as is.  If you dont have the rudder sensor installed (not sure if its even possible with a mercruiser) only the Hand Over Time prevents the wheel from getting cranked to its end stop.  Im not really even sure how it would even work because how does it even really know when the drive is straight anyways?  I think I might have hit the limit once on my first time out when i was in the process of doing turn and turned the knob a little too far all at once and got a blast of wind at the same time.  I suppose I could just lower the Hand Over Time setting.  Does that also impact how often it corrects back and forth?  My corrects like crazy when trolling but it does keep it on a perfect line and it was in 2 to 3 footers. 

[Chas0218]

Guys I think that slop you are feeling is the play in the servo motor not your actual steering.Most servo motors have a "dead spot" when they aren't in use and when they are idle they will "free wheel" for a fraction of a second until the wheel is moving and creating an electrical current.  That electrical current is the added felt resistance in your steering with the autopilot off.

[jigstick]

Yeah I think you're right.  The free play in the steering is built into the sport pilot drive.  I don't even notice it with the boat running and under power.  it was only really noticeable when dry docked.  Here is something else that came up for me yesterday, which may or may not be a problem for you guys.

 

When the autopilot would engage, my chart plotter /  sonar would shut off.  And I believe I know why.  The sport pilot drive unit must pull a significant amount of amps.  I originally had my chart plotter and autopilot wired to the same fuse panel.  With the AP on, the voltage must have been dropping to the point that the chart plotter would turn off.  I moved the chart plotter onto a different fuse panel, and now its fine.

 

So for anybody thinking of installing one, make sure your wiring and fuse panels are up to the task.  Run thick wire to carry the maximum amount of voltage possible.  Today I am going to run some thicker wire, like 4g or 2g up to the one fuse panel, to see if that allows me to run both the AP and plotter off of it.  

 

I have a lot of electronics on board.  The new fuse panel was running LED spreader lights, chart plotter, sonar, VHF radio, auto pilot, Fiskhawk probe, and some LED accent lights.  I had to keep shutting stuff down to keep the voltage adequate for the AP.  Im fairly certain with the thicker wire, I will be able to run all of this stuff off of the same Bluesea fuse panel.  The current wiring was only like 10 or 8 gauge.  4 gauge will do the trick.

 

Vetting:

 

Mine was correcting frequently, but only turning the wheel a few inches in either direction.  I wouldn't call it "constantly" correcting.  I was only in 1fters with 8kt wind though.

 

The "rudder limits" setting tells the AP how far right and left it can turn the outdrive.  Default is 30 degrees.  so that means the AP limits the outdrive swing to 30 degrees in either direction.  Your outdrive MAY be able to turn more that.  You have to play with the setting and watch the out drive to see how far in either direction it will go.  By increasing the "rudder limit", it will tell the AP that it can turn the outdrive FARTHER.  So in theory, I think that means it could correct course even more.  Does that make sense?  This is my interpretation though…

 

The hard over time is how fast the outdrive will move left to right.  I believe the lower the setting…like 5 seconds….means it turns faster.  Raising the number, to like 15…means it would take longer for the outdrive to turn.  How this translates into course correction….Im not sure.  I think with a higher number, the drive unit will be turning MORE, but at a slower rate….so maybe overworking a bit????  Im not sure here

Edited May 21, 2014 by jigstick

[Chas0218]

Yeah I think you're right.  The free play in the steering is built into the sport pilot drive.  I don't even notice it with the boat running and under power.  it was only really noticeable when dry docked.  Here is something else that came up for me yesterday, which may or may not be a problem for you guys.

 

When the autopilot would engage, my chart plotter /  sonar would shut off.  And I believe I know why.  The sport pilot drive unit must pull a significant amount of amps.  I originally had my chart plotter and autopilot wired to the same fuse panel.  With the AP on, the voltage must have been dropping to the point that the chart plotter would turn off.  I moved the chart plotter onto a different fuse panel, and now its fine.

 

So for anybody thinking of installing one, make sure your wiring and fuse panels are up to the task.  Run thick wire to carry the maximum amount of voltage possible.  Today I am going to run some thicker wire, like 4g or 2g up to the one fuse panel, to see if that allows me to run both the AP and plotter off of it.  

 

I have a lot of electronics on board.  The new fuse panel was running LED spreader lights, chart plotter, sonar, VHF radio, auto pilot, Fiskhawk probe, and some LED accent lights.  I had to keep shutting stuff down to keep the voltage adequate for the AP.  Im fairly certain with the thicker wire, I will be able to run all of this stuff off of the same Bluesea fuse panel.  The current wiring was only like 10 or 8 gauge.  4 gauge will do the trick.

 

I think they recommend 12 or 14 gauge for a run up to 20' for those units.  I ran a dedicated line for my autopilot so I wouldn't have to worry about that.  I think I might be running another for my fishing lights and probably a heavy duty relay.

[vetting]

Here is my install - it's just tapped in place for now to make sure it's the best place.

[Chas0218]

Here is my install - it's just tapped in place for now to make sure it's the best place.

What raymarine fish finder unit do you have?

[vetting]

Its an a77 - a series MFD.  I really like it so far.  I've still getting use to adjusting it but its pretty easy to set up.  Best part is they now give you free charts with the Lighthouse II update.  They are pretty detailed charts that are based off of the NOAA vector charts.  So no paying $200 for a navionics chip with less detail than the vector charts.

 

I wasnt sold on the chirp/down vision deal so I went with the a77 instead of the a78.  I got a screaming good deal on it at $766 + $95 for the ducer.  It was a model number (E70165) that I think they are trying to get rid of - its the one without WIFI and without Navionics maps - both of which I didnt need.  I think they are going to having wifi on all units.  Thats why when you look at pricing online for the A77 its usually $1000 w/o a ducer - its the wifi and charts that drives the price up. 

 

Also, the a77 makes it a snap to update the ACU, EV compass, and P70R units.  I had to do them one at a time and it did take some time, but its the only way to update these units without sending them in. 

[Chas0218]

Its an a77 - a series MFD.  I really like it so far.  I've still getting use to adjusting it but its pretty easy to set up.  Best part is they now give you free charts with the Lighthouse II update.  They are pretty detailed charts that are based off of the NOAA vector charts.  So no paying $200 for a navionics chip with less detail than the vector charts.

 

I wasnt sold on the chirp/down vision deal so I went with the a77 instead of the a78.  I got a screaming good deal on it at $766 + $95 for the ducer.  It was a model number (E70165) that I think they are trying to get rid of - its the one without WIFI and without Navionics maps - both of which I didnt need.  I think they are going to having wifi on all units.  Thats why when you look at pricing online for the A77 its usually $1000 w/o a ducer - its the wifi and charts that drives the price up. 

 

Also, the a77 makes it a snap to update the ACU, EV compass, and P70R units.  I had to do them one at a time and it did take some time, but its the only way to update these units without sending them in. 

I was actually hoping to get the Wi-Fi unit with ducer just no charts.  I was looking at the A78 which just comes with chirp.  I figured adding it later down the road would be good but the cost of the module didn't seem cost effective in the long run.  I wanted wi-fi so I could hook my phone or tablet up to it for updates and such.

 

I really wish someone would come up with a module that included CHIRP, Downspeed, GPS, and have nmea output that used blue-tooth and all you needed was a tablet with an app. You could have 2 displays for less than 1 of these high end units.

[jigstick]

well I trolled again with it this weekend.  The autopilot seems to be getting better and better the more I use it.  I think it has something to do with the new Evolution programming....like its learning my boats characteristics.  I cant believe I wanted this long to get this.  Fishing is so much more fun now.  And I think in the long run it is going to save me money on gas.  No more wandering all over the lake going from and back to the harbor.....just straight lines now. 

[Chas0218]

I to have used it about 6 trips now and can't believe I didn't have it sooner. I went out with my father in law in his boat without it and fought the boat the entire time. It sucked major, now I look forward to trolling in the wind and rougher waters.

If someone was on the fence about it just buy it and explain it to the wife later.

Sent from my thinking chair...

[vetting]

Just an update

 

I dont even touch the wheel to do turns anymore - I either use the turn 180 pattern or the 360 circle. You can set it to turn either direction and the diameter of the turn. Turns perfect with dragging 6 boards without a single tangle.  Being able to make a smooth turn, catch a fish or 2 on the turn and then not touch the wheel at all - priceless. 

 

The only thing I havent figure out is if i can get the zig-zag working.  I always get more fish on turns vs straight trollling.  Im not sure if you can set the zig zag pattern in a way that doesnt make it turn too sharp.

[Chas0218]

Just an update

 

I dont even touch the wheel to do turns anymore - I either use the turn 180 pattern or the 360 circle. You can set it to turn either direction and the diameter of the turn. Turns perfect with dragging 6 boards without a single tangle.  Being able to make a smooth turn, catch a fish or 2 on the turn and then not touch the wheel at all - priceless. 

 

The only thing I havent figure out is if i can get the zig-zag working.  I always get more fish on turns vs straight trollling.  Im not sure if you can set the zig zag pattern in a way that doesnt make it turn too sharp.

What size 180 do you do?  I have been hesitant to use it while lines out.  I know with the zig zag it allows you to change the distance but I don't know how it would work without the GPS.

[vetting]

What size 180 do you do? I have been hesitant to use it while lines out. I know with the zig zag it allows you to change the distance but I don't know how it would work without the GPS.

You have to have gps or a chart plotter hooked up to do the patterns. I do a .1 to .13 nm 180 turn. Smoothest turn I've ever seen. If I need to make a sharper turn I do it manually but I'm usually busy netting a fish in the turn

[Chas0218]

Ya i figured, o well next year new depth finder with GPS. 

[jigstick]

will the Evolution Sportpilot integrate with a Simrad Chartplotter?  I think the Raymarine Seatalk NG networking is the same as NMEA2000.....?