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Posted

Just ripped up the carpet in my boat in preparation for new. Now I noticed I should replace some wood. So my question is. Do I need to do anything to the plywood like seal it or anything before I put it down? If so what with? And will the carpet glue adhear to it

Posted

Been doing a lot of research on the topic as I plan on doing mine in the fall. Here's my take:

1 don't need marine ply if it isn't structural.

2 seal with a few thin coats of a good spar

3 don't use carpet if possible as it will hold water and eventually cause rot again

Posted

What's spar? Everything I've read was exterior plywood with some sort of resin. Just not thompsons. My worry is which stuff to paint on the plywood and will the new carpet adhear to it

Posted

Spar is a type of urethane water proofer. Resin and glass is definitely the best possible way to go, but urethaned well and kept dry, the floor will last more than long enough without the work, skill, and money required to glass it.

Posted (edited)

No different brands make spar urethane, it is what is used on bar tops to keep them water proof, and I believe that fiberglass resin is meant to be used with sheets of fiberglass not just on its own.

Edited by jgsbucker
Posted

I used good quality exterior plywood and coated both sides and the edges with marine epoxy from this company. One gallon with the medium hardener did the front deck, main deck and rear deck of a 19 foot Starcraft Superfisherman. Carpet adhesive worked fine with the epoxy coating.

Posted

You can use just fiberglass resin on top of plywood without the fiberglass cloth to waterproof the wood. The cloth just builds it up and adds strength Any carpet glue you use will readily stick to it. Wait for warmer weather if outside or it will take days for the resin to cure. Epoxies don't like the cold

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Posted

Plywood and resin works great and you can buy the resin at Wal-mart in the auto department by the qt.  If you put carpet down you have to use contact cement and I found a small roller works nice to coat the floor and the back of the carpet .

 

Good Luck !

JT

Posted

I've run into these problems as I rebuilt a boat over the last few years.  Just a 17' runabout but I made new glass stringers, a new transom and a complete floor.  The latter two being of 3/4" marine grade plywood.  Marine grade plywoods' use better glues to adhere the plys together and always have less voids in the matrix than a standard grade ext or int plywood.  Worth the extra money.  I got mine at Lenco Lumber in West Seneca. The epoxy I used came from ClarkCraft and is located in Tonawanda NY.  It's designed to adhere to wood and fiberglass and doesn't leave an ameane(sp) blush between coats.  One coat of a good marine grade epoxy will seal the fibers in the wood.  Glass will add durability and abrasion resistance.  Insure there is no moisture in the wood as you will trap it and dry rot fungus will bite you in the ass in a few years.  I do agree with what others have stated about carpet holding water.  There is a great product from West Marine that is a non-skid epoxy top coat used in areas of the floor that get alot of traffic.  It has a powder additive to the mix that makes it slightly rough when it dries.  It does collect a little dirt but can be scrubbed to get it off. The latex based roll on floor paint that has tiny rubber bits in it is good but tends to flake or peel off if the floor wasn't prepped correctly. In no way am I a pro but I've had the unfortunate but educational experiences dealing with this stuff and have learned a few does and don't.  Feel free to drop me a line or email if you want to pick my brain. Good luck.

Posted

Ok wit your guys help I've tackled and conquered the floor and carpet. Way more work than I expected!!! Now I want to do the gunwales. What do you recommend ? The trim seems to be riveted and would like not to have to drill them all out or remove the black rubber bumper trim on the outside

Posted

I dont see a way with out removing the rivets. Rub rail should just pop out of that track . Track is likely just screwed in. Rivets and rivet gun probably cheapest expense to your whole project.

Posted

I was told if I have to remove the rubber it would be next to impossible to slide back in? If the outside is screwed in would it be possible in your opinion to take off just that side then tuck the carpet on the inside rail glue then replace the bumper. After all I went thru with the floor I'm reluctant to do it but it looks terrible. Kinda looking for the easiest way out

Posted

The rubber bumper part is like a rock after it's been in a while.  I've heard heating it up in hot water can soften it.  New stuff isn't cheap but you went through all the other stuff so wait and save until next year if you have to so you can do it right the first time.  

Posted

Use 3/4 inch marine ply wood, put 3 coats of water seal on both sides and the edges, put the carpet down with good contact cement. Remember to use a sharp razorblade when cutting the carpet making sure that you cut the carpet with 1 cut each time (this is very important) so the carpet does not unravel, I use only 1 or 2 cuts with the blade before going to a new one. Good luck!

Posted

The resin you buy at walmart is poly resin I think, it's not nearly as good as epoxy resin which is much more expensive. You can use the resin without cloth to seal the wood and from what I read it's just not as strong. Epoxy is the best...spar is another good option and way cheaper...don't waste your time with Thompson water seal. Matthew and fields in off lake ave. has 1/2 inch marine plywood for 56$ a sheet, there best exterior plywood was near the same price...

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Posted

  Are you replacing the carpet with carpet or marine vinyl ?   The vinyl works out very nice in a fishing boat  for fish slime & wash down ,just an idea, something to think about.

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