aluminum hull repair?

[hawkeye625]

In getting my boat ready for splashdown I noticed a hairline crack about 2" long on the bottom of my hull.  It's a crestliner sabre, which is welded, but the crack is not on a weld.  You really have to look to even see the crack, but I want to make it right before it gets worse or leaks. 

 

Should I take it to a welder or is there a product like JB Weld that would fix it?  I've read about leaky rivets fixed but not sure what to do with a crack.  Some one mentioned JB Weld to me but I wanted to ask here to see if anyone else has input.

 

 

Jeff

 

 

[Nessmuk]

I'd contact Crestliner and ask them how to repair if possible.

[power dive]

I would take it to a welder that way you know its done right! the cheap way would be put 3m 5200 on it that stuff seems to work real good.

Sent from my C771

[Jack]

Which ever method you use I would drill a very small hole at each end of the crack so it won't grow . I would lean toward welding , but I would also want to know why it cracked so it won't happen again.

 

Good Luck!

[Chas0218]

Where is the crack and the direction it is running?

Sent from my thinking chair...

[fishfearme]

Where is the crack and the direction it is running?

Sent from my thinking chair...

Best question ever

[jimski2]

We used TIG welding to fix cracks along the chines and got away with it. But time showed that the aluminum in the boat became old and subject to other cracks later.

[Knotlost]

Of course weld is the best answer, but your way of thinking about things come into play as well.

 

The way to look at it is how perfect dose it need to be for you to be happy.

 

Some boat owners are good with gluvix or epoxy, some want it perfect and need a tig, grind sand and paint.  Others are in the middle, I weld but then depending on where it is I don't often grind sand and paint.  The nice thing about epoxy is cheap and easy, weld is more permanent, but then you have to make sure everything on the other side of welding point is clear (especially foam) and will not get heat damage, and if you don't weld find one who will not charge you a-lot.

 

PM me with your location maybe i can help you out.

[Chas0218]

Best question ever

I was wondering if anyone would pick up on it.

But seriously there could be more to it than just a crack.

Also be careful if you have an on board fuel tank and where it is located if you are welding it.

Most welders would only charge you $100 depending on where it is and how long.

Sent from my thinking chair...

[hawkeye625]

The crack is just under the water line off the center of the bow maybe 12 inches off the starboard side and it is running port to starboard.  It's not even separated at this point, but I want to make it right before the season gets under way.  

 

Looks are not on the top of my list, as long as it is safe.  We used epoxy on a canoe some 30 years ago and it still looks like the day it was applied, but the canoe doesn't take a beating from waves.  

 

I think I'll try the jb weld and keep a good eye on it, the inside is going to be a chore to get to.

 

Thanks to all that replied.

 

Jeff

[buckboardjr]

Mechanically etch it with  80grit so that the adhesive can get a bit, and clean it well with thinner. Stop drill the ends of the crack. Mechanically etch and clean a patch of roughly the same thickness of the parent metal. Bevel patches edges. Bond it on with epoxy adhesive and secure with structural blind rivets. Pull rivets dipped in epoxy. Skidoo shops have nice structural blind rivets used on thier tunnels. Note that alum. sheet metal has grain to it. Position the patch so that the grain goes across the crack.

[RodBuster]

I just had my Sabre welded using TIG, done by a pro.   I called Crestliner and asked about rods. They said use R5356 alloy rods.  My welding pro said over time the aluminum "cold works" and gets fatigued, especially where the waves pound the bow.   Good luck.

[poverty stricken II]

I had a guy weld my lower unit and still holding strong. Definitely need someone who knows how to weld aluminum. The guy who did mine welds aluminum race engine heads. He only charge me 2 hours labor.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[fathobbit0074]

Drop loot on welder don't half ass it

[Chas0218]

The epoxy isn't going to last with it being where the waves ride against it. I would weld before I would epoxy.

[fathobbit0074]

Pp

[justtracytrolling]

Weld it!  Shouldnt cost much or take long, but piece of mind is priceless on any water...i bet lady O more than most.   

[buckboardjr]

I know to the average guy welding seems like it would be the most robust, permanent fix, and that some manufacturers boast their welded boats to be better when actually they are doing it to quicken production and reduce cost. For them to make these welded boats as strong as riveted boats they have to use thicker alumin to get the strength of the riveted boats which negates some of the light characteristics of alumin and they can't take advantage of some of the alloys that are put into some of the riveted sheetmetal hulls for extra strength because they are unfavorable to welding. Alumin aircraft are riveted together because it's strength and flexibility. When damaged, their hulls are never welded, always riveted or riveted and bonded.  If you have a riveted hull fix it with a riveted sheetmetal patch. If it's a welded hull surely weld it. This of course is if you have to have it spot on correct. Sometimes it just doesn't matter and what ever gets you on the water fishing fastest is the answer!  

Edited April 22, 2014 by buckboardjr