Battery switch question

[cheese]

Back in may I bought a battery switch so I can have two batteries.it seemed pretty easy to put together ,I bought a brand new battery n hooked that one for the starter n accessories I never hooked up the 2nd one yet but left the wires hooked up so it would b easy to put on the 2nd battery just for the down riggers.after about 2 months I went to start the boat n the battery was already drained n the switch was off.any ideas why this may have happened would be greatly appreciated

[Art Benham]

draw a diagram of the batteries and your wiring....

[TileMan Dan]

What kind of downriggers do you have ? If cannons with ion control they are always on and will drain battery.

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[cheese]

Tileman I do have mag 10s but I didn't have them hooked up to the other battery yet. Artb I'm not sure how to get pics on here but ill explain it .i have the starter positive going to the common on the switch n the negative going to the negative on the main battery,the accessories positive going to the common on the switch n the negative going to the negative on the main battery,I have a 4 gauge wire going from battery 1on the switch to the positive on the main battery,I have a 4 gauge wire from battery 2 to the positive on the 2nd battery n a 4 gauge wire from the negative on the main battery to the negative on the 2nd battery,but like I said the 2nd battery isn't hooked up yet so those wires are just laying on floor rite now.thanks again hope this makes sense

[lost a lure]

Was the boat sitting for two months?

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[cheese]

Yes it was with the switch on the off position

[Xxx]

Yes it was with the switch on the off position

Well it's evident that you have a draw in the system somewhere? and I assume you didn't leave anything on, so when you charged up battery and hooked it up, did you see a little spark? if not take a test light and unhook the negative wire from battery and attach the alligator clip to the wire and touch the positive post you shouldn't have a light if you do you have a draw on the system somewhere. First take off the power wire on the alt. if still a light then that's alright. next pull one fuse at a time and replace fuse if light doesn't go out, keep doing this till light goes out, at least now you know where to start looking, in the area that, that fuse attributes to. Good luck and hope this helps, I had a faulty ignition switch, which kept my exciter wire hot all the time, meaning my voltage regulator was activated at all times even with the key off, but was able to determine quickly buy doing the above and pulling fuses until I pulled the alt. fuse and light went out,

[TileMan Dan]

Listen to pap on this one. He knows this electrical stuff

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[Xxx]

Listen to pap on this one. He knows this electrical stuff

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Thanks Dan, a little pat on the back goes along way. I have a starter & alt rebuild shop for over 20 plus years and I love the challenge of this business, it went from the simple starters and generators and alt. to the complicated gear reeducated, perminate magnet starters and the computer controlled alt. which has lead to a lot of chasing electrical gremlins, as a lot of alt. brought to me now a days work, but other problems occurs before the alt. fails. I have had to take on these jobs as no one else wants to get involved in this sometimes nightmare, especially on vehicles with some age to them. A simple corroded connection in the computer is the cause of the whole problem, or a simple solder joint comes unbuttoned. I have found that its usually something simple, but for some reason people seem to shy away from the electrical end of this business. Edited August 3, 2014 by pap

[cheese]

K pap thank u ill give it a try n see what happens

[Xxx]

K pap thank u ill give it a try n see what happens

Good luck      Please feel free to PM me if the need arises!! PAP