Dipsey Leaders Breaking

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I had several spin doctor set ups break off off my dipseys. Using 20 lb mono 5 to 8 ft leads. I test the releases every time I deploy them do I do not think those are too tight. Is the 20 lb mono too light for this application.

[AnglingAddict]

Yes - most guys use at least 30 lb. mono if they use a snubber, and 40-50 pound mono of they aren't running snubbers. 

[Richard]

I have been using 30 lb. mono without issue (no snubber). That being said I am going heavier next year. I feel 20 lb. is too light.

 

Good luck and tight lines.

[on the lam]

50. No snubber. It's not exactly a stelthy presentation in the first place

Edited September 14, 2014 by on the lam

[Sk8man]

30 lb Big Game no snubber and never a break off yet. In my view most of the shock is to the leader from the dipsey to flasher or spinney and for that I use 50 lb Big Game Mono. I'd rather chance losing the dipsey and fly and replacing them than have the 30 lb wire break (a more PIA expensive fix) so I try to keep that part consistent and I believe the 30 lb mono (or one of the connections) will break before the wire (e.g. if snagged up).

Edited September 15, 2014 by Sk8man

[Kevin J Legg]

I too use 50 no snubber.

[Tim Bromund]

Been using 50 lb big game and no snubber for years.

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[[email protected]]

Thanks to all for the info. I think I will rig up some 40 or 50 lb leaders from the dipsey

[Popeye]

50 here also

[buckboardjr]

50! I learned the hard way with lots lost on 30lb!

30 lb Big Game no snubber and never a break off yet. In my view most of the shock is to the leader from the dipsey to flasher or spinney and for that I use 50 lb Big Game Mono. I'd rather chance losing the dipsey and fly and replacing them than have the 30 lb wire break (a more PIA expensive fix) so I try to keep that part consistent and I believe the 30 lb mono (or one of the connections) will break before the wire (e.g. if snagged up).

So SK8man, it sounds like your set up is this: Wire, 30lb. leader,Diver, 50lb. leader, Flasher, leader&Fly! If so that is interesting. Let me know if I got this correct as I had never heard of anyone tying a leader to the wire before the diver unless they were doing the slide diver program!

[Chas0218]

50! I learned the hard way with lots lost on 30lb!So SK8man, it sounds like your set up is this: Wire, 30lb. leader,Diver, 50lb. leader, Flasher, leader&Fly! If so that is interesting. Let me know if I got this correct as I had never heard of anyone tying a leader to the wire before the diver unless they were doing the slide diver program!

He is saying that the majority of the stress is on the leader that goes from the dipsy to the Flasher/Spin Dr.

 

I had to read it a couple times to figure it out as well.  Nothing wrong with the way he typed it just reading it fast you could think he was running mono between the diver and wire.

[TyeeTanic]

I use 30 lb fluoro (not that it needs to be fluoro, but that's what I have in my bag).  Never had a fish break that off.

 

I did use 20 lb once, and did have breaks. What I found is that 20 lb knicks MUCH easier than 30 lb. The spot that would almost always get compromised is the knot, when clenched.  With 30 lb, the diameter is big enough that it just doesn't knick/squish at the knot.

 

So for that reason, I prefer using at least 30 lb leader line.

[buckboardjr]

He is saying that the majority of the stress is on the leader that goes from the dipsy to the Flasher/Spin Dr.

 

I had to read it a couple times to figure it out as well.  Nothing wrong with the way he typed it just reading it fast you could think he was running mono between the diver and wire.

Oh Chas, I agree that that is where all the stress is but SK8man starts out with:

30 lb Big Game no snubber and never a break off yet.

then he states he uses 50lb. between the diver and the flasher:

In my view most of the shock is to the leader from the dipsey to flasher or spinney and for that I use 50 lb Big Game Mono. I'd rather chance losing the dipsey and fly and replacing them than have the 30 lb wire break (a more PIA expensive fix) so I try to keep that part consistent and I believe the 30 lb mono (or one of the connections) will break before the wire (e.g. if snagged up).

and his reason is that he is OK to loose Diver and F/F rather than have wire break. But I could be wrong.

[Sk8man]

Here's the reasoning-  The 7 strand wire costs about $45 (plus time to re-rig) or so A dipsey and flasher costs about $25 or so.I tie my own flies so they aren't real expensive. I always keep abut a dozen dipsey/flasher or spinney combos already rigged and ready to go in the boat in zip lock bags)  There is substantial "give" in the fact that the wire is out a long way and because of "slight bowing", and the fact that  most of the force from the fish is directed at the fly and flasher component and that is where I want the strength and a little "shock absorption" from the 50 lb mono so I don't lose the fish....I'm not protecting the fly...I don't care about that....just make another for a couple bucks. I make sure my drag is set right when I deploy and I make adjustments while fighting the fish (e.g. kings) despite other folks opinions to the contrary and during the many years I've been doing this I haven't lost hardly any fish. In the old days prior to fleas I used to use 12 lb test mono and 20 for the rest. There is a large degree of overkill by many relating in my opinion to improper setting of the drag, poor knots, or inferior lines and leaders being used. There have been IGFA records set on fish over hundreds of  pounds using  10 lb test line. Yes large kings can be "savages" but they are not sharks either.

Edited September 17, 2014 by Sk8man

[justtracytrolling]

Also a quality smooth drag is a must for lighter tackle and many trolling reels arent smooth enough...

[Sk8man]

Yes Justin.....the Dragmaster carbon fiber drags are "the nuts"....

[Has Been]

40# Big game. Never breaks.The 50# Flouro Fly leader? Thats a a different story.

[Sk8man]

40# Big game. Never breaks.The 50# Flouro Fly leader? Thats a a different story.

That is why I went back to 50 lb Big Game on my flies and making my own because the fluro stuff broke it is too brittle and doesn't take "shock" like the mono

[buckboardjr]

So Sk8msn! Can you Please Clarify this? Do you tie a 30lb leader to your wire, then attach that to your dipsey, and then 50lb Big Game, and then flasher fly? Sorry but I still couldn't clarify THAT in your last 2 replys!

[Sk8man]

I hook my 125 mm Deeper Diver dipsey to the swivel at the end of the 30 lb 7 strand wire (no leader in between like some folks do) and then a 4 or 5 ft 30 lb Big Game mono leader, then the spin doc or flasher to that 30 lb leader wiith a 50 lb Big Game mono fly leader and fly at the end of it. If it were to break at the 30 lb test I'd be losing a flasher or spinney and fly. In doing so I'm assuming there are no weak spots in my wire (no kinks etc) and that the breaking strength of the wire will exceed that of the mono or the knot at the end of the mono (to my knowledge most of the 7 strand wire brands breaking strength has somewhat exceeded the 30 lb listing of it in tests of it). I also have used a crimp the right size for the wire that has been carefully crimped so that there will be no "wiggle" room at the ends  and then hot glued that connection with clear hot glue so that the strands won't have the ability to move or fray. I use Blood Run wire on one rod and Accustrand wire on the other and they are both good wire.

Edited September 18, 2014 by Sk8man

[justtracytrolling]

Ok I think I get it...the lions share of the stress is between the fly and spinny/flasher so you have the 50lb big game mono to take the shock...the 30 lb is to protect your wire and dipsey?

Edited September 18, 2014 by justtracytrolling

[Sk8man]

Exactly.

[buckboardjr]

Thanks for the clarification Sk8man but the 1st year I went to wire I lost 3 fish/fasher/flys with the 30 lb Ande Pink mono between diver and flasher so I went to 50lb big game and it solved it. My rational on it was that having that super heavy deeper diver between the fish and the drag on the initial run gave the fish a split second to pull above 30lb before actually releasing drag. Now with Carbon drags and the rubberband hold trick I could probably go back to 30 but I probably won't.

[Sk8man]

I hear ya. Those drags make a lot of difference in just what you are mentioning the initial hit (where the major stress is and where some drags are a problem in reacting quickly and without jerking). Although the Big Game is inexpensive line and I have even heard that the Berkeley reps favor their more expensive stuff ( gee I wonder why?) I've had very good luck with it in various test strengths without breakage and I used the forerunner of it (Hombre) and XT as well with good success for many years in both the fresh and saltwater environments.  I think that faith in your equipment is important and especially line and drags. My particular system may not be for everyone in that sense and again I believe whatever works and you have experience with it and faith in it that is what is important. Everyone looks at it from different perspectives and hopefully we all learn by sharing our experiences with each other and I may switch back from this approach if I find there are unforseen problems or it isn't working  but for now it seems to work for me.

[BAZOOKAJOE]

Been using 30 lbs Big Game (no snubber) just because that's what I've had laying around. No breakoff's. I do check and re-tie a new leader pretty often. Using 10 ft ML Starfire rods with a lot of bend to them.