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Posted

I'm looking into buying the Cannon speed and temp but really want to know all its flaws an how you compare it with the Depth Raider or Subtroll or are they compareable .I don't see any body jumping up and down over cannon units ,i would like to know why.

Posted

Just my 2 pennies, but the most likley thing I can think of happening to any S&T unit is loosing the probe. If you loose a Cannon probe you will pay as much as I did for my Depth Raider unit complete to replace it. Although the Cannon has available light and exact depth of the probe where the DR does not, I feel reliability and overall cost were more important.

Posted

The Cannon unit has come a long way with it's reliability since it's inception. They've worked out the kinks and the system works great now. But, as Play Penn said, the big downer with them is if you lose a probe. A replacement probe is $399 or so. The light intensity and absolute depth features are awesome, but only you can determine if they're worth the price of a replacement probe. For comparison's sake, a replacement probe for a Depth Raider is about $189. I personally run a Depth Raider and love it.

Posted

I run the Cannon and I like it. I had a subtroll 2 yrs ago and liked that as well. As others have said, you lose the probe and it costs big time. The light feature on the Cannon is great as well as actual depth readings.

Posted

I have the cannon and love it. The light feature makes the extra money worth it in my opinion. Although the probe costs alot, jeff lantiegne posted a way to attach the probe to the cable that makes it almost impossible to lose unless u break the cable above the unit.

Posted

thanks for the input ,but i have another question. i saw jeff lantiegne and maniac's set up but i like the blacks release and can't seem to figure out how i can add it to there set up, any help.

Posted

I've been running the SNT since it's inception. I like it a lot and I did not experience the problems that others had reported. I sometimes wonder if some of the reporting that goes on is not meant to sway peoples opinions irregardless of facts. But anyways, I use an inline dubro's release(about the same as a blacks) except you can unscrew the halves apart and re-assemble them on the cable. I stop the upwards movement of the dubro's with two scotty auto stop beads. They don't hurt the coated cable.

One of the features that I like most about the SNT probe is that I can take it off for the ride in very easily.

Posted

capt ace, are you running your probe with out changes. you just run your dubro release above the probe and weave your cable through the original connection on thje probe the way cannon meant it to be.does this connection feel safe to you.it looks sone what ,like you could lose the probe to me i don't know that is why i am asking.

Posted

Fisherman08,

Can you tell me where it is posted on how the cannon can be hooked without loosing the probe. I just bought the cannon and I see there seems to be a problem with the probe.

Howie

Posted

Here's my set-up. I did use a black's on this one. The dubros is easier as it can be done after the assembly. I only strip about an inch of cable where the SNT attaches to the cable. If you notive I attached a snap swivel above a scotty pin to stop the safety leash from sliding down if I should lose the rigger ball. I attach the safety leash to the snap swivel. I use a clincher on the bottom and do not strip the cable. Just make sure to use a new clincher and to pull the clip in tight. I've never had one slip, although if the weight snagged bottom it should slip. Above the Snt probe and above the blacks are two scotty pins to stop the blacks from sliding up. These are adjustable for height above the ball and or probe.

100_9251.jpg

Posted

Shade , the link that fishman posted was my first setup from a few years ago. I have since modified it. Here's a pic.

probe4.jpg

Posted

Thanks Maniac. All I need to do is get me a oiece of stainless.

Posted

Ed, The probe comes off easily. Simply unplug the red bullet electrical connectors and unclip the snap from the metal plate.

Posted

Ok thanks Eric , then I could do the same type deal for my Sub troll. That will be so much easier to set-up than what Im doing now. I'll be replacing the cable some time this year'

Thanks

Ed

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Mongo, I believe the first setup created to much disturbance in front of the paddle wheel therefore, not giving accurate speed readings. With the newer plate, I made it so that the rigger cable would be further away from the paddle wheel and also had less of a profile. I also redid the termination and eliminated the snap swivel to give better water flow.

Posted

Maniac,

What kind of release is that and where did you purchase it. Also how is the cable run and tied to it? Looks like it goes around the nut and bolt. Last question, what stops the release from moving up the cable.

Posted

Shade, Are you asking about my pic or capt ace's pic ? No release shown in my pic. The terminator is a trutrac now made by Walker and called a clincher. I use a pinch pad stacker release about 2' above the probe.

Posted

Its called a clincher?....you can tell my intelegence......where do I get one? I could not imagine what I was doing wrong.....dahhhhhh

Posted

Maniac,

Thanks...I got one earlier today at Gander Mtn. I see what it is now, we use them just did not know what it was called.

Just curious how do you hook up your release?

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