Advice on downrigger mounting location

[On the Hook]

I want to add manual downriggers (Cannon Uni-Troll 5 or 10) to my 2014 Starweld 1800, but I am having an issue with choosing a location because of the limited access to put a backing plate under the mount. I am hoping some of you can offer some advice on how to mount them. I have attached some pictures to show you my problem.

 

Option 1 – In pictures 1 & 2, you can see there is no access to the gunwale until just after the cup holder. There is about 3 feet from this location to the transom, so I am not sure if mounting the downrigger here is too far forward, even if I get a telescoping boom on the downrigger. I would have to attach a backing plate here because the flat part of the gunwale is thin. Was not sure if I would have issues with my lines getting into the prop of my main outboard as that is what I will be using to troll.

 

Option 2 – In pictures 1 & 2, the stern cleat is about 20 inches from the transom. I could run a board gunwale to gunwale and anchor this to the stern cleat with a u-bolt. Then I would attach the downrigger to this board. I may also be able to connect the board to the back pedestal seat with a little bit of rigging. The problem with this option is that I sometimes use the fold-up bench for my fishing buddies and the board would be in the way of the bench. To not use the bench would mean to purchase more pedestal seats, which makes the floor space tight.

 

Option 3  - Picture 3 shows how my gunwale overlaps, so I could through bolt the mounting bracket to the gunwale. I could also use Eagle Feet mounts with a board closer back to the transom.

 

As you can see, I don’t have a lot of mounting options that are ideal. If anybody has any other mounting ideas, let me know. 

Edited September 30, 2014 by On the Hook

[LongLine]

Please stand in the front of your boat and take a picture of the stern showing the seat/bench position and gunwales.  With a little ingenuity you may be able to put a board around them.

 

My unitrolls have swivel bases that lock at 45 degrees. 

 

Tom B.

(LongLine)

[insufishent]

can you access the underside of the gunnel by removing that speaker or access port cover??

[On the Hook]

Insufishent, the access cover is misleading as the hole it covers is only about 2 inches in diameter and is to just access the boat's wiring.

[FishnChef]

I would take out the rear bench put in The trolling board using the eaglefeet and make your friends sit in folding chairs.as a matter fact I did do that only I didn't have a bench seat in my way I had a pedestal seat.folding chairs only take up more space for the time you're sitting in them and they're surprisingly stable even when running.I'm glad I did the drawing board because it made my boat a whole lot more rigid and the board is wider than the boat so my six and a half foot beam boat fishes like a seven and a half foot beam boat in terms of rod/rigger Spread.just my 2 cents from my experience.I know it's a new boat and you're probably hesitant to remove anything

[J.D.]

photo #1,  Install a round deck hatch on the vertical wall under the white padded area, maybe 4" diameter... enough to get your hand and a backer plate in for mounting.

 

something like this.....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Viking-Marine-boat-4-round-access-Hatch-cover-Screw-out-Deck-plate-White-/301295627418?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item46269e6c9a&vxp=mtr

[FLXTroutman]

The manufacturer webpage for your vessel shows track mounted on the gunwale. 

 

http://starcraftstarweld.com/showroom/1800-series/1800-pro

 

Check out Traxtech layout pics, putting your riggers forward of your transom will make it easier to work them.  Kneeling on the seat or box at rear to work a rigger mounted to a board could be a pain.

http://www.traxstech.com/Page_26.php

[Sk8man]

If the holes in the top of the gunwhale are factory recessed rod holders (can 't tell from the pic) and are angled toward the back you can use Cannon gimbal mounts with low profile swivel bases and mount the downriggers that way.Mine are exactly that way and it works perfectly.  It also allows you to take the riggers on and off just lifting them out for security purposes or storage. You can also use pedestals to increase the height if needed (not needed on my rig)

 

Pic 1 - the components upper middle and right are the Cannon gimbal mount and the low profile swivel base on the lower left is a pedestal for increasing height if needed

 

Pic 2 - the mounted downrigger on the gimbal and swivel base

 

Pic 3 not a great photo but gives you the idea of how mounted - I have 2 sets of therecessed rod holders so I can position the downriggers closer to me if fishing alone and run the dipsey holders at the back

Edited September 30, 2014 by Sk8man

[On the Hook]

I have attached two more boat pictures that show more of the boat to the original post. 

 

FLXTroutman, the link to the Starweld page is for the Pro model, my is the regular DC model. In that photo, the tracks would be mounted in the same spot as mine. The downrigger would be 3 feet back from the transom if I mount it here. I am just not sure I want my downrigger forward this much unless I get the Cannon Uni-Troll 10 as this telescopes to 53 inches. 

 

J.D.,  I may wind up cutting out some of the sidewall and installing an access cover as I see no other way to get a backing plate under the gunwale if I want it close to the transom. I will sacrifice some flotation foam to add downriggers.

 

Sk8man, those holes are upholders, not rod holders. If I could install a secure rod holder in the gunwale, I would go this route.I will have to look at some flush mount rod holders and see if that is easier than cutting up the sidewalls.

 

Thanks so far for all of your suggestions. 

[mr 580]

Based on the seat locations, I would suggest looking at a track system running up the gunnels. I would use the longest track you could fit and full length backer. Moving your riggers up the gunnel would allow better access and room for netting. With a long arm rigger and a swivel base there shouldn't be any motor interference. You would also have room for rod holders and everything could be removed when you weren't trolling. Traxstech and Bert's both offer good track systems. Not exactly a cheap setup, but one that would function well and last for years.

[On the Hook]

Based on the seat locations, I would suggest looking at a track system running up the gunnels. I would use the longest track you could fit and full length backer. Moving your riggers up the gunnel would allow better access and room for netting. With a long arm rigger and a swivel base there shouldn't be any motor interference. You would also have room for rod holders and everything could be removed when you weren't trolling. Traxstech and Bert's both offer good track systems. Not exactly a cheap setup, but one that would function well and last for years.

 

My original plan was to use Bert's tracks on each side. If moving my downrigger forward a few feet is not going to cause any problems, then I might as well go with the Cannon UniTroll 10 and mount this to the Bert's track. 

 

If anybody else wants to give me their pros and cons of moving the downrigger forward a few feet instead of mounting it at the stern/transom, I would appreciate it.

[Chas0218]

If it were me I would be removing the rear cup holders and mounting a 36" track.  I would start it about 6" behind the cup holder hole.  This would allow you to move them forward if fishing by yourself and be with arms reach or slightly back to clear the fish fighting area with more than 2 guys. 

 

I'm not a big fan of boards on smaller boats it hinders the places you can put downriggers.  My dad has this setup on a older starcraft and it works great but he does not have a rear fishing platform like you.  I would hate to have something that hindered my fishing area like that.  I like being able to pull my riggers off and drift a little or completely change up and go fishing for a different species.  

 

I am a multi-species fisherman and some days I will start out salmon/trout and end up fishing walleye later on or hit some shoals for bass. That would be hard to do on your boat with a board mounted across the back then trying to store it and tripping over it on the floor of the boat....

 

I believe they also make track mounted cup holders if you really need them.

Edited September 30, 2014 by Chas0218

[LongLine]

Out of the box….Anything you mount to the gunwales will require a backing plate.  Therefore think about making two aluminum angle support brackets.  Screw/bolt to floor behind seat near the gunwales.  Attach a board to brackets with another angle screwed/bolted to board.  Thread support brackets so board is easily removable.  Board will rest on gunwales but be supported by the main support brackets.

 

 

 

Tom B.

(LongLine)

[TileMan Dan]

Looking at your pics there has to be a way to access underneath the gunnels. That vinyl would likely be the last thing installed when boat was built. You will probably have to do some disassembly to get at them. If it were me I would install a track system to give you the most versatility. They are pricey on the con side

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

[Thun]

That's a beautiful boat and I agree with TileMan Dan. Look around closely for screws on those side panels, I'd think you should be able to remove that panel to gain access under the gunnel. My gunnels are 11" wide with rod lockers which I find too small for salmon rods and they're right in the middle of the gunnel's, screwing up the possibility of mounting a track system. I wanted to mount a rigger board across the back but was out voted by my sons. But they did suggest running the boards up the sides. So with a couple of 2" white oak boards, 1 1/2" anodized pipe and Kee Klamp flanges we can now run 4 riggers and there's room to mount a small track for dipsy rods. That platform makes me nervous when it's bumpy out there but now I don't worry as much about my son's bending over the back setting the rigger rods now. The 2 rod lockers will be converted into tackle boxes. There were 4 screws holding that small panel in place which were easily removed to get under the gunnel for backing plates. Those Kee Klamp flanges have 2 set screws and the boards are easily removed for trailering and covering. I wish I had a better pic but here's what I did.

[Sk8man]

That is a real substantial mount Ralph and it is what I'd be thinking about if I had an aluminum boat

[Thun]

Thanks Les, I searched everywhere but couldn't find stanchions tall enough to clear the rod lockers when opened. Dukdog recommended the speed rail and I'm glad I listened to him. Now I'm going to fasten a flange on each side, right on top of the 2 forward flanges and make a rocket launcher using 5' of pipe on both sides and 7' across the top. I think...The boat's only an 18'er and I really need to get the rods out of the way. My brother in law buried an Owner hook into his hand this year getting out of the boat with the rods up front. He's getting an Owner hat this year for Christmas!

[On the Hook]

Thanks TileMan Dan and Thun. I will have to figure out how the padded sections are attached and gain access that way. As many times as I looked at my side walls, I never considered doing that. Sometimes it takes another set of eyes to point out the obvious.

[Chas0218]

Thanks TileMan Dan and Thun. I will have to figure out how the padded sections are attached and gain access that way. As many times as I looked at my side walls, I never considered doing that. Sometimes it takes another set of eyes to point out the obvious.

Food for thought.

 

Use a track just in front of the cup holders. Gain access underneath by removing the cup holders and use the rod locker to get at the rest.

[Jeremy Goodison]

My crestliner had to small gunale. I used product called eagle feet, then bolted 3/8 aluminum to top. Work mint and no holes in the boat at all. Once I connected everything I welded it complete. Twist eight set screws and whole thing choked right off .Used all traxtech to match my 24' trophy. So now the big girl is in getting winterized and I simply slide in the equipment I want depending on what I'm going for in the little girl.

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[Has Been]

I would figure out a way so that you  mount it so it is  just in front of the back seat.Riggers at 30-45 deg angle of side. You need to be able to get at both the ball and rigger easily for setting lure & adjusting depth especialy in a smaller boat & if you plan on fishing alone. I have mine on a board I can take off & put on w/ a few screws when I fish Bass/pike  . It gets me when I see a smaller boat with the riggers on the back corners & you have to lean over the side &  back to work on them.. One of the small boat tactics I use  means I have to adjust depth & lead  constantly so you need to be able to do it quickly easily & more importantly, SAFELY.

[LongLine]

It's often advantageous to be able to kneel on something - like the back seat - to keep your balance when setting the line.

 

Tom B.

(LongLine)