Big boards for copper and core.

[momay4000]

What I don't understand , if this is a forum about sharing ideas and techniques why do I keep hearing the need to buy a ticket to a trade show to learn about all these techniques. What gives? I already pay a fee to this site so I don't have to deal with advertising. Correct me if I 'm wrong.

Thanks,

Dan

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Amen Dan! I agree 100%.

 

- Chris

[fathobbit0074]

I would love to check out the mods on boards but I can't afford lotsa this year. I love the concept of inlines vs otters But 44's just too much trouble the way they are stock for me.

[fathobbit0074]

I did lotsa salmon school last year and it was def worth the money. But I'm like 4hrs away

[momay4000]

Also - I have always run my longest lines on the outside while using my Otter boards which is contrary to the logic stated above. Perhaps I'm just lucky, but I think it works both ways. I have never had a tangle when a fish hits the outside line even when it's a deeper running line (let's say a 600' copper on the outside vs. seven color core on the inside). My guess is the fish hits the line and are pulled back and up. That being said, I used to have many tangles when I was trying to deploy a deeper line over the top of a shallower running line, so these days I will always reset my lines after there's a hit on the outside to avoid this issue. I also bring my divers in on the side when there is a hit to avoid tangling with them as well and re-setting the whole side of lines.

 

I do not run multiple coppers on one Otter, but I do run multiple lead cores or a copper plus a lead core.

 

Personally, I think there is more than one way to skin the cat (deeper line inside or outside) and it's all what works for you.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris

[Gill-T]

Also - I have always run my longest lines on the outside while using my Otter boards which is contrary to the logic stated above. Perhaps I'm just lucky, but I think it works both ways. I have never had a tangle when a fish hits the outside line even when it's a deeper running line (let's say a 600' copper on the outside vs. seven color core on the inside). My guess is the fish hits the line and are pulled back and up. That being said, I used to have many tangles when I was trying to deploy a deeper line over the top of a shallower running line, so these days I will always reset my lines after there's a hit on the outside to avoid this issue. I also bring my divers in on the side when there is a hit to avoid tangling with them as well and re-setting the whole side of lines.

 

I do not run multiple coppers on one Otter, but I do run multiple lead cores or a copper plus a lead core.

 

Personally, I think there is more than one way to skin the cat (deeper line inside or outside) and it's all what works for you.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris

Your bait on the 600' copper is 300' away from the bait on the 7 color.  The only way they will get together is if the 600' Cu pulls over into the lure on the 7 color.  Very possible for this to happen if you do it long enough.

[momay4000]

Your bait on the 600' copper is 300' away from the bait on the 7 color.  The only way they will get together is if the 600' Cu pulls over into the lure on the 7 color.  Very possible for this to happen if you do it long enough.

 

Been trolling 26 years......copper about 5 or 6.

[Gill-T]

Been trolling 26 years......copper about 5 or 6.

 

I have ZERO experience trolling a 600' copper.

[Sk8man]

My hunch is that there are several variations of setups that can work. Everyone tends to speak from their own perspective which includes some factors that may be taken for granted. Different boat widths, frequently used speed ranges, water roughness, turning radius (and habits in that regard ) all affect these particular setups so what may work well on one boat in one situation may not transfer exactly to another boat/situation.....just something to keep in mind....personal experimentation is critical  with your own familiar equipment to "get it right". For example it may be very beneficial to watch it done on a charter boat but when you get back to your own boat many things may operate differently and the general concepts may have to be modified as a result.

[skipper19]

My hunch is that there are several variations of setups that can work. Everyone tends to speak from their own perspective which includes some factors that may be taken for granted. Different boat widths, frequently used speed ranges, water roughness, turning radius (and habits in that regard ) all affect these particular setups so what may work well on one boat in one situation may not transfer exactly to another boat/situation.....just something to keep in mind....personal experimentation is critical with your own familiar equipment to "get it right". For example it may be very beneficial to watch it done on a charter boat but when you get back to your own boat many things may operate differently and the general concepts may have to be modified as a result.

Les is exactly right. Experience the dynamics of the various effects of your trolling habits and how the setups work together, one at a time. See how it lays out. You can add more spread after watching your first copper perform. Then there are several things as devices or weights and releases that can maximize your spread without excessive fubar. It will happen but that is an experimental learning curve although expensive usually. If you're afraid of fubar expenses, keep it simple and run one copper maybe two.

Personally I do not use any boards for copper to get separation. I rely on the three different weights of copper and 15 foot outriggers giving me 35 feet wide of a boat. Once all running up to 4 coppers everything runs fine on a gentle lake and steady hand...getting it out there, deployment is what can get tricky and requires fore thought and sequence. Remember that different weights of copper give you depth separation taking out one dimension from the equation. Different planes on various lengths to target specific water column and avoid fubar more than running multiple same weight coppers. The new 60 lb makes a great short copper in the chute as it sinks rapidly and quick to retrieve (large diameter winds on fast) when a fight with a rigger fish happen. Short copper can still get deep on a stacker release on a downrigger.

Most folks don't do what I do, and for obvious reasons, boards are less expensive than outriggers and easy to use on relatively calm seas where outriggers can perform in rougher conditions. I like thinking and experiments. Especially when it comes to it all working with fun. If isn't fun then the KISS method is better because fun is most important. Catching the intended prey is the satisfaction of experience with the equipment. Get out and try stuff or as said get on the experience of someone who takes the time to shorten the learning curve.

.

Edited January 13, 2015 by skipper19

[bloodruntackle]

Some very good points here, experimentation and not fearing experimentation is key.   There are a number of anglers that successfully run 3 wire divers a side or more at a time when the diver bite is hot, or run 5 coppers a side when the copper bite is hot.   Being flexible and adjusting to real time activity and having the right gear and confidence in it is key.   If you can capitalize on those situations by having the confidence and the right gear, your catch rate will increase noticeably.

[BAZOOKAJOE]

The otters with dual keels...dialed in will pull a couple long coppers. But I don't typically run more than one copper per side. I've tried it before. All you need is a minor error during deployment (like a hard turn, a false release or a fish to hit~especially steelhead). And you are fubared! And your spending a bunch of time irritated...picking out a mess. And usually buying a new copper (or two) the next day. I'll run a couple different cores or a core/copper per side. My coppers are the last things to go out in my set. That said...they are a stealth presentation (anyways) and less can be more. The inlines aren't for me. I don't want to fight the weight of the board. And usually don't have enough people aboard to have an extra hand available to remove the board.

[BAZOOKAJOE]

The way I think. If the kings are hitting 90 down on the riggers. i'm wasting time/effort (IMO) to run a 200 copper just to have another line in the water. (After first light anyways). I know some people might want that extra chance at getting a bonus fish (most likely a steelhead). But to me it's not worth the extra risk of fubar. Because said 8 lbs steelhead will run cross every line you don't want him to.

Edited January 14, 2015 by BAZOOKAJOE

[scobar]

I don't remember where I found this, but here is a upgrade for the 44bds.......

 

There are some tricks to the TX-44, and inlines in general.   For all inlines, fighting a fish should have the rod pointed horizontally or into the water.   Rod tip down, board nose up.....right up to the point that you lift the board out of the water.   There is no pumping of inlines, just brute force shoulders down reeling.   You actually are using the board for leverage against the fish.

 

Second tip (for the TX-44).   You HAVE to put the pin on the bottom, and clip your line in the bottom slot.   These boards are designed to be either port or starboard.   In either case, you have to use the bottom slot for your line, and the pin must pull down towards the water.   

 

Third tip on the TX-44.   Take the weights out of the board, cut a slot in the foam which will allow you to double stack the weights slightly forward of center.   Drill new holes in the bottom through the stacked pieces of lead, and screw the screws back into these stacked pieces.    Your TX-44 will now pull 30 degrees further up the side of your boat then they previously did, and will pull much more effortlessly, and will be easier to retrieve.

 

If for some reason you have an inline  board dive, stick the rod tip into the water and open the bail on the reel and slowly allow line to peel off the reel while thumbing it.   The board will quickly pop back up to the surface.   Re-engage the bail and start your retrieve again, with your rod tip pointed into the water.

[Gill-T]

I don't remember where I found this, but here is a upgrade for the 44bds.......

 

There are some tricks to the TX-44, and inlines in general.   For all inlines, fighting a fish should have the rod pointed horizontally or into the water.   Rod tip down, board nose up.....right up to the point that you lift the board out of the water.   There is no pumping of inlines, just brute force shoulders down reeling.   You actually are using the board for leverage against the fish.

 

Second tip (for the TX-44).   You HAVE to put the pin on the bottom, and clip your line in the bottom slot.   These boards are designed to be either port or starboard.   In either case, you have to use the bottom slot for your line, and the pin must pull down towards the water.   

 

Third tip on the TX-44.   Take the weights out of the board, cut a slot in the foam which will allow you to double stack the weights slightly forward of center.   Drill new holes in the bottom through the stacked pieces of lead, and screw the screws back into these stacked pieces.    Your TX-44 will now pull 30 degrees further up the side of your boat then they previously did, and will pull much more effortlessly, and will be easier to retrieve.

 

If for some reason you have an inline  board dive, stick the rod tip into the water and open the bail on the reel and slowly allow line to peel off the reel while thumbing it.   The board will quickly pop back up to the surface.   Re-engage the bail and start your retrieve again, with your rod tip pointed into the water.

 

 

Bingo....that is great advise.........or you could just use an otter boat and not worry about diving boards, freespooling kings etc. etc.

[TileMan Dan]

Lol. I'm with you on the otter boats!! Had a 44 dive only once and said never again will I use them.

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[fathobbit0074]

Anyone ever run otters with long lines inside and shorter segs or cores off 22's outside ?

[GAMBLER]

I find running my one copper a side is perfect along side four divers (2 per side).  I find two coppers on one board hinders your ability to turn.  By the time to turn around to go back through a weighpoint, the day is over. 

[jason]

There are times when I run 5 inlines on each side of the boat. But when I do, I coppers on 1 side and leadcore on the opposite. I know on seans boat we had 14 boards out. That was a fun day.

[Hookedup]

Anyone ever run otters with long lines inside and shorter segs or cores off 22's outside ?

Like Jason posted above we run some serious boards off my boat and multiple wire divers. Some guys run less and do great and have more fun, but we got the gear and enjoy it. We put the auto pilot on a course and with both of us working we run three rods per person usually 12 to 21 rods out. As for your question if I'm running a 500 to 600 copper I'll run that off otters on the inside and run multiple lines off small church boards on the outside. Then usually two wire divers deep per side. Copper off one side core on the other. Then say you are pounding them on 200 copper will run four of them on one side and use musky floats to stretch out the spacing bend the inline board. I started 30 years ago with the first in lines I could find running 4 per side out of a row boat, my budy and I would row all day in that 12 ftr. I was ten and didn't know their was a rod limit:). For running multiple boards per side you need low drag backing, good calm seas and no weeds. You can't have crap dragging together. I only get to fish Ontario two or three times a year due to how busy we are down here on the finger lakes but its the same up north. Run what you can when you can till you figure out what they want. Lots of guys on here know a hell of a lot about boards don't be afraid to shoot a pm to any of them. Look at jason he was running in lines off snoopy poles in my pond before the ice hit:)