clincher and depth raider signal connection

[Gene Shenk]

Hi Guys

Can you tell me the best way to make the signal connection from the clincher release to the depth raider so I can still remove the probe when not in use? The clincher I have has rivets not a screw holding it together so I figured just put a quick connect on the excess wire from the clincher is that right? Also how would you connect to the probe itself for the best signal? Should I solder a wire to it or the clincher swivel or is there a better way?

Thanks Gene

[Erbyjoe]

drill the rivot out of the release and put a screw thru a termanal hooked to the downrigger cable with a locking nut screw it down and your good to go.Some where there is a picture of this set up. here is a post that will help you scroll down to JD post that is a great picture of what I think you are talking about

http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishin ... 82&start=0

[Billy V]

Gene,

I saw this over on GLA a year or so ago and set it up and it works great. If you have Cannons and want the auto-stop to work, you'll need to take about 18-24" of the coating off the cable. Wind the bare cable around the spool tightly and MAKE SURE it contacts the set screw on the center of the spool. Spool the rest up and attach one of the new Walker Klinchers with the black's style release, or the old style Klinchers which is what's in the pic. I have mine set up with the black's style release.

You'll need to drill out the rivet that holds the snap in place and replace it with a stainless bolt and two nuts. Then strip an inch or so off the end of the cable and attach it to a crimp-on style connector. Be sure to strip off the plastic coating and leave it bare metal. Put that in between the two nuts and tighten them. That'll complete the electrical loop for the auto-stop and you'll be able to take the probe on and off. Also, be sure to throw the snap swivel that comes with the Klincher in the garbage. It's too soft and will repeatedly open up on you (at least ours and a couple of our friends did). We replaced ours with a Cannon snap and it's been fine. This set-up is the best that we've found and it really works slick.

[Gene Shenk]

Thanks Guys I will get that done it looks like a piece of cake. Bill thanks for the cannon dr tip because I do have mag 10's.

Gene

[seasquirrel]

That rivet is a pain in the butt to drill out. I replaced my swivels as Billy V did. I used the scottys brand. Those are beefy!

[Play Penn]

A tip for removing the rivet is to cut away the swivel first with wire cutters, leaving just the rivet. Then hack saw out the rivet from the center of the clinchre, makes a clean cut. I practiced on some old clinchers that I replaced before so as not to mangle the new one. Drilling out the rivit created lots of heat and softened the plastic. Hacksaw method was alot easier.

Hope this helps.

[seasquirrel]

That sounds like a good idea. A bit Amish for me. I resulted to my hand grinder.

[Gene Shenk]

Thanks for the tips guys it sounds like a job for my sawzall.

Gene

[tangledline]

Haven't seen this posted so I thought I'd add it. I just received my Sub Troll this week. As I was looking through the paperwork that came in the box I noticed a sheet that offers a klincher just as the one pictured here. Their $7.35