Cannon Digi-Troll TS 10 Problems

[SmellsLikeFishNH]

Hi guys,

Those of you who run these, have any of you seen the transducer readings so bat $hit crazy and start spooling and unspooling line when you are running bottom track?

 

I bought these last year and Cannon seems to have no clue what to do. another guy on the lake I fish ALSO has the exact same problem, so I know its not just me. The Transducer will read (these are just random #s as an example) 50-55-53-50-200-300-50 50 50 150 300....etc.....it doesn't do it all the time, it might work great for 3 hours then all hell breaks loose. Sometimes it happens immediately other times hours into using them.

 

The ramifications of it happening is crazy downrigger wire bird nests on the spool. Once it "catches" itself and resets to actual depths it spools or unspools like crazy trying to get the wire back in or let it out.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

- I run each downrigger on their own battery

- Ive turned off my Raymarine Fish finder to see if it was causing issues

- Ive turned off my Lowrance to see if it was doing the same

- Seems to happen even when the other transducers on the boat are off.

- 6hp Johnson 2 stroke Trolling motor is wired to the batteries as well for charging purposes while trolling.

 

Thanks in advance!!

[jlrjoz]

Technology is great until .... That would freak me out!

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[finsntins]

i have heard others have the same problem.if capt.rick hajecki (crazy yankee troller)does not chime in,maybe shoot him a pm,he is a big time cannon guy and great with helping people out.

[Yankee Troller]

We've had the CannonLink hooked up to ur DT10s for the last 4 or 5 seasons, and we did not experience this. I am not able to offer an opinion on the transducer option as I have never ran that. The CannonLink is discontinued now but it allowed you to run off your Humminbirds transducer, and your riggers were able to be controlled through the Humminbird. Have you tried calling Cannon's Technical service hotline? They are really good!

[SmellsLikeFishNH]

I did call them, and so did Dan, the other guy on the lake I fish in NH that has the same problem. they were absolutely useless to both of us and had no idea how to help.

 

Neither of us run Cannonlink as neither of us have Humminbird systems. These are just running off of their own transducer.

 

Thanks everyone.

 

 

 

We've had the CannonLink hooked up to ur DT10s for the last 4 or 5 seasons, and we did not experience this. I am not able to offer an opinion on the transducer option as I have never ran that. The CannonLink is discontinued now but it allowed you to run off your Humminbirds transducer, and your riggers were able to be controlled through the Humminbird. Have you tried calling Cannon's Technical service hotline? They are really good!

[Yankee Troller]

Is the bottom contour bumpy? Are you fishing big drop offs?

[John E Powell]

I have the setup you're describing and have not experienced anything like that. The depth readings are always very stable.

 

My guess is that the transducer is losing contact with the bottom and it may be upping the auto gain and/or changing the pulse length in the background in an attempt to find bottom. When too much power is applied, the signal bounces back and forth between the bottom and the surface and may be getting picked up and interpreted as a deeper depth. What leads me to think this is the problem is the numbers you listed, they seem to be close to multiples of the 50' depth you describe. Random readings which are very close to multiples of your actual depth are an indicator that the unit is reading signals making multiple bounces between the bottom and the surface before finally getting read by the transducer.

 

This is the same phenomena people see on their sounder when trolling offshore. At some point, what looks to be a very strong signal starts to appear at the top of the display and then begins to work down from the surface. Many people misinterpret this as some kind of temperature or PH break that is collecting microorganisms. This is not the case. If you go into the setup of your sounder display and alter the pulse length manually, the double reflection image will disappear because the time it takes to make two complete reflections between the bottom and surface no longer falls within the reception window as limited by the pulse length setting. If it was an actual anomaly in the water, changing the pulse length would not make it disappear because it is actually there. 

 

As to the Cannon system and it's controls, I'm not familiar enough with the background software programming of the automatic ranging, gain, and pulse length to offer a possible solution to the problem you're experiencing. However, I would encourage you to make sure the transducer is installed in an optimal manner on your particular hull.

Edited April 10, 2015 by John E Powell

[SmellsLikeFishNH]

John

Thank you for taking the time to write that response...I appreciate you putting in that effort.

 

The contours im fishing are not too dissimilar, there is the occasional drop and hump etc that you would expect on the floor of the lake, but the differences are never really that dramatic. 

 

The numbers I listed were really just to show the type of readings it will give, its not an exact representation. I will look and see if there is a gain control built into them to see if I can adjust that. You would think that there should be, but I honestly don't recall it, I will look at the product documentation later today. Talking with Cannon, they had me readjust the angle of the transducer, which I tried. Didn't change anything, same issue occurred. Of course this only happens when I am running the bottom tracking feature, which was one of the main reason I bought these. I can use them in other functions with no issues.

 

The good news I have is I'm eliminating a LOT of what I had last year that could of caused electrical interference. I am getting a new 2015 Mercury Trolling motor tomorrow with the charging coil and I have removed my older Raymarine and Lowrance Mark IV and replacing them with a Lowrance HDI 7. Hoping that those changes alone will make things work as expected...hardest troubleshooting aspect is I can ONLY see this when I am out on the water fishing, cant test it in the driveway or at the dock.

 

Thanks again!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the setup you're describing and have not experienced anything like that. The depth readings are always very stable.

 

My guess is that the transducer is losing contact with the bottom and it may be upping the auto gain and/or changing the pulse length in the background in an attempt to find bottom. When too much power is applied, the signal bounces back and forth between the bottom and the surface and may be getting picked up and interpreted as a deeper depth. What leads me to think this is the problem is the numbers you listed, they seem to be close to multiples of the 50' depth you describe. Random readings which are very close to multiples of your actual depth are an indicator that the unit is reading signals making multiple bounces between the bottom and the surface before finally getting read by the transducer.

 

This is the same phenomena people see on their sounder when trolling offshore. At some point, what looks to be a very strong signal starts to appear at the top of the display and then begins to work down from the surface. Many people misinterpret this as some kind of temperature or PH break that is collecting microorganisms. This is not the case. If you go into the setup of your sounder display and alter the pulse length manually, the double reflection image will disappear because the time it takes to make two complete reflections between the bottom and surface no longer falls within the reception window as limited by the pulse length setting. If it was an actual anomaly in the water, changing the pulse length would not make it disappear because it is actually there. 

 

As to the Cannon system and it's controls, I'm not familiar enough with the background software programming of the automatic ranging, gain, and pulse length to offer a possible solution to the problem you're experiencing. However, I would encourage you to make sure the transducer is installed in an optimal manner on your particular hull.

[SmellsLikeFishNH]

Well here is my weekend update...

 

Got the boat on the water for the 1st time this season and with new electronics, new batteries, new trolling motor, etc....same exact thing!!

 

Called Cannon and explained the issue to them, they offered to have me send in the downriggers to them for an evaluation, but to them if BOTH are doing it then it must be some sort of electrical issue interfering. they have now asked me to run them on their own battery with NOTHING else on the batteries. Now, this may be difficult as I already have 2 batteries in the boat and there isn't anywhere for me to put another battery except on the floor of the deck. I tried arguing the fact that doing that while possible, really isn't practical. Who the heck has space to run 2 standalone batteries in addition to the batteries they already have running all of their other electrical components.

 

So here we go again, will now try that, even though they each ran off of independent batteries before, now I will have to try and run them on batteries that have nothing else attached, not even the motors he said.....UGH!!! For $1500 a downrigger you would think they would be engineered to work with other fishing equipment.

 

Thanks guys!

-Scott

[Rif fisher]

Hi Scott, I, experinecing the same problem, did you get any solution? Regards

[Sk8man]

I think my first try would be to replace the transducer itself and see what impact that has before buying  a whole bunch of other stuff. Worst case scenario is you'd have a backup transducer if the problem is still there.

[Don Supon]

My solution several years back, eventually, after the same things happening to me, was to sell the cannonlink and change the circuit board to a Mag 10 circuit board. Replacing the Mag 20 board first did not correct the problem. Lost the bottom track and ion control adjustment, but at least have functioning riggers. 

[Dexter]

I had the exact problem that you have about a year ago, that problem seemed to go away on its own, but now I have a different problem that's just about as bad. Both my left and right digitrol 10 downrigger readings go to zero and both weights start to rise to the surface unless stopped. The downrigger depth display remains on zero for several minutes and then will start showing correct depth again and everything is ok again for a while. Is anyone else having this problem?

[RSF]

Found it interesting that you mention it begins happening after about three hours of operation. If this is the case still, you might try taking a battery voltage reading when it begins (all systems off when taking the reading). The only common thing with your problem that is a constant would be possible battery drain - perhaps not a lot but enough.

Here are battery voltage =  Remaining charge level (12 volt):

 

12.6=100% Power Remaining

12.5=90%           "

12.42=80%         "

12.32=70%         "

12.2=60%           "

12.06=50%         "

11.75=30%         "

11.58=20%         "

11.31=10%         "

10.5=0%             "

 

I have seen equipment fail or give erroneous reading and/operation, including finders and other voltage-level specific items when a certain voltage thresh-hold is not maintained. Good luck.

[SmellsLikeFishNH]

Just noticed that there was a new reply to this so thought I would chime in with an update.

 

Still having the problem, even installed brand new batteries and haven't used a voltage meter to check if fluctuations are happening on the batteries but I will this year. I installed Ferrites on just about every electrical cable I could find on the boat to see if that was causing any interference. I cant say that fixed anything, but it does seem to happen less now.

 

Good news is it seems to not be as often, but it still does happen. Another way for me to combat the birds nesting issue or any real damage occurring is to set my up and down speed on the units to their lowest speed. This way if they start spooling a large amount of line I can stop it before it causes any damage with my cable. Leaving the clickers on the reels on also helps as an alert mechanism.

 

Wish I had better news.

[bigboyforry]

Scott,

  I read that you have each  downrigger on their own battery? Do you also have a separate transducer for each?  if so why to both questions? would go with all four batteries paralleled together as one source and use one transducer. it sounds to me like individually they are interfering with one another. good luck

Forry

 

P.S. let me know how you make out.

[bigboyforry]

Scott,

  I read that you have each  downrigger on their own battery? Do you also have a separate transducer for each?  if so why to both questions? would go with all four batteries paralleled together as one source and use one transducer. it sounds to me like individually they are interfering with one another. good luck

Forry

 

P.S. let me know how you make out.

[Sebagoguy]

Scott,

I've run 2 of these Cannon Digi-Troll 10 TS for 8 Seasons now on Big Sebago Lake in Maine.  I also called cannon right from the start (No Help)..I use mine in master/slave config. w/cable.  Brand new batteries, both on same batts and both on separate batts, no other electronics on in the boat, I've tried everything. I've purchased 3 replacement traducers no change readings all over the scale.  Sometimes I can go 1-2 hrs before they act up.  I have ruined 4 stainless steal trolling cables and dozens of hours of fishing time.  When they work work they are well worth the money.  All most time for new but I will not replace them Cannon equipment.  I have the 1st 2 serial numbers issues in 2010 but sounds like Cannon is still having the problems...Does anyone have any answers?

 

[Tyee II]

On 4/10/2015 at 11:05 AM, John E Powell said:

I have the setup you're describing and have not experienced anything like that. The depth readings are always very stable.

 

My guess is that the transducer is losing contact with the bottom and it may be upping the auto gain and/or changing the pulse length in the background in an attempt to find bottom. When too much power is applied, the signal bounces back and forth between the bottom and the surface and may be getting picked up and interpreted as a deeper depth. What leads me to think this is the problem is the numbers you listed, they seem to be close to multiples of the 50' depth you describe. Random readings which are very close to multiples of your actual depth are an indicator that the unit is reading signals making multiple bounces between the bottom and the surface before finally getting read by the transducer.

 

This is the same phenomena people see on their sounder when trolling offshore. At some point, what looks to be a very strong signal starts to appear at the top of the display and then begins to work down from the surface. Many people misinterpret this as some kind of temperature or PH break that is collecting microorganisms. This is not the case. If you go into the setup of your sounder display and alter the pulse length manually, the double reflection image will disappear because the time it takes to make two complete reflections between the bottom and surface no longer falls within the reception window as limited by the pulse length setting. If it was an actual anomaly in the water, changing the pulse length would not make it disappear because it is actually there. 

 

As to the Cannon system and it's controls, I'm not familiar enough with the background software programming of the automatic ranging, gain, and pulse length to offer a possible solution to the problem you're experiencing. However, I would encourage you to make sure the transducer is installed in an optimal manner on your particular hull.

Transducer location sounds logical. I've experienced the anomaly where a huge school of baitfish sent my rigger racing to the surface. That lead me to believe it is very basic tech interpreting the signal.

Edited February 28, 2018 by Tyee II

[Dexter]

Hi guys

I fought this exact same problem with the digitrol 10 readings going crazy and the frustrations that came trying to 

come up with a fix. I tried every fix mentioned on this forum and experimented with other fixes with no luck. Fortunately, i had a friend that had the same problem and mounted his digitrol 10 transducer on the side of his boat. This action cured his problem of the readings going crazy. I copied his set up and also no longer have the 

problem. Side mounting the transducer is a little more of an hassel because we made ours to swing upwards and lock in place for high speed movement, but well worth the effort. Thanks to this forum for allowing us to support each other. Good Luck!

[kayman40]

Hey Everyone,

Been reading about this topic for a couple years and I finally found a solution for my setup anyway.  I wrote Cannon the following :

"I know you get a lot of questions about the bottom track feature on digi troll 10's.  I have two of them which I have struggled to get to work properly for a couple years and since I figured out the problem I figured I would pass the solution along because it is simple and I bet a lot of people are making the same mistake.  I have a Lowrance units on my boat which I love and I have an 83/200 khz transducer on the front of my boat and Airmar TM150 on the back.  I found the solution because I can run my Airmar chirp transducer on custom frequencies.  If I run it anywhere between 95 and 145 khz the depth reading on the downriggers go crazy.  It can't keep a consistent depth at all.  When I go up to 150 khz, the depth stays consistent for a while and darts around maybe once a minute.  I'm guessing guessing if it was at 200khz like a lot of people run, it would only mess up every once and a while but if you run your transducer at 83 khz it stays perfect all the time and never jumps around.  I know that the cannon transducer is 120khz but I think it's very sensitive to other signals. You are usually in 80-140 feet of water when you use bottom track so 83khz is a good setting anyway.  I think I'm right in saying that people starting having this problem right around the time that Lowrance added a feature that allows your units to CHIRP any transducer.  If I set my transducer to chirp, the Cannon jumps everywhere from 600 ft   to 50ft.  So the solution is to run your unit at 83khz when using bottom track and switch back to your favorite settings when you are not using that feature.  I am interested to know if you have heard of this before?  Have a good day"

 

Hope this helps some of you

[Tyee II]

Thank you for the info. I have not had this problem yet, but my new boat has chirp and I probably would have eventually. 

 

So many times I search for info on forums and usually can find someone with similar issues, but rarely do they ever post their solution, so thanks again.

[Sk8man]

It sure sounds plausible

[Mike N]

I have mine at 83Khz and still have the problem.  I've had the downrigger in a couple of times and they say it checks OK.  When I first bought the downrigger it mostly worked now it is totally unusable even at depths as low as 50'.  The two depth feature is not working so I am going to take it in again.  If that doesn't fix it I am thinking about replacing the transducer.  If that doesn't work I am out of ideas.  I emailed cannon, but got no response possibly due to the covid19 shutdown.

[Gill-T]

Can’t you turn off the bottom track feature?