Why wire?

[Tonysil]

Being new to the sport I can't help but notice most serious anglers use wire rods.  What are the advantages of wire over mono, braid, lead core?  The rods and line certainly aren't cheap...

[Paul Czarnecki]

Wire is used for dipsey divers and has the greatest depth to distance ratio with zero stretch so it is favored over mono. The advantage of wire over braid for divers becomes obvious the first day fleas show up. Lead core is an entirely different animal as it is its own deployment device just like copper.

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[skipper19]

You are correct! Not cheap, so that rules out 1 advantage, but as you will find along the way, this sport is by no means cheap to play if you want to have success without frustration. Unless ya tell your other half how much you spend fishing...then ...you get what I mean:unsure:

Wire gets you deeper on dipsey as will braid over using mono.

Wire collects less fleas than braid. Most braid, not all, becomes useless with fleas. Fireline fused original 30lb is an exception.

Wire has no stretch making it like braid and easy to retrieve the dipsey.

30lb wire thickness takes very little room on a reel. 1000 feet fits easily on reels like the size of Daiwa 47 without backing.

You don't need to spend big money on a full roller rod. Just a good dipsey rod with a twilly tip on the rod tip.

Disadvantages are not many but worst case is being aware of tension and not let the wire curl and get a pigtail. It will break.

Copper wire is just a depth deployment device similar to lead core.

More out, deeper it goes. Same disadvantage of wire curls.

[tuffishooker]

Many answers to your question ; one theory is the wire sets up a harmonic [ noise ] which may attract fish ?  [ Maybe guaranteed to catch fisherman ?]  Wire is another depth device to be used at some distance from the boat .Again wire gives a different lure action which can make all the difference !

 

Wire is not easy to use and as you posted costs add up [ but who said salmon fishing was cheap ! ] .

 

My best advice after 30 yrs. on Lake O. KIS [ keep it simple to start ] ie. downriggers , add a stacker spoon. Dipsys next , but now you need wire or braid line with no stretch [ mono does not work well because of stretch ].

 

IMO less can be more : More can = tangles which has ruin a good .

 

Finally Dan Keating's books tell you all you need !

[Sk8man]

Although a wire rig may be a little pricey at the outset they will last a long time with proper care as mentioned above keeping them under some tension at all times while not deployed is critical. As an example I've used wire on my Seth Green rigs for many many years and I have two of my rigs that have the wire I put on them over 30 years ago and it is just like new still and one of the crimp connections is still original (despite the nay sayers about using crimps ). It is important to closely monitor the last few feet of wire lines especially and any connections whether tied or crimped. While kinking in stranded wire requires cutting and/or replacing copper is a little more "forgiving" and depending on the severity of the kink sometimes it can be straightened out fairly well without disaster and braided copper is more forgiving than single strand in this regard.

 

The comments above (e.g. Mark and Paul etc.) really "nailed" the advantages of wire line and once you get used to it's "oddities" you can come to love it in terms of depth control and getting a good feel of the fish on the end of the line. I've found it much easier to get the fleas off than braid or thin mono but believe me if the fleas are real thick for distances even the thickness of downrigger wire will accrue them- especially the variety (s) on the Finger Lakes.

Edited July 12, 2015 by Sk8man

[JimB]

Not sure if they will continue to do so, but the past 2 years Dicks/Gander and I'm guessing Field and Stream have offered wire combo's in the spring.

 

They are Okuma rods and Okuma line counter reels, and I think they ran $179 or so (with wire spooled)?     As far as quality goes, I've had them for 2 years and no issues other than

the twilly tips fall off the tip (not sure if they are glued on, or just pressure fitted) but a small amount of crazy glue fixed that issue permanently.  

 

Funny thing about this sport....some would say $179 is cheap, others would say $179 for a rod and reel isn't that much of a bargain.  

[Sk8man]

Funny thing about this sport....some would say $179 is cheap, others would say $179 for a rod and reel isn't that much of a bargain.  

 

Good point but I would refer folks to the salt water world where roller rods may cost $800-$1200 each and the reels can run into the thousands   It truly is all relative.

[Landshark]

Wire is better for a good copper dipsy tangle. Mono would be boring and too cheap. All comments above nailed it

[Tonysil]

Good information gentlemen.  That cleared it up pretty well.  Thank you.

[tiogafishaddict]

Always have great luck on wire

[TyeeTanic]

Don't know if it's already been said above (didn't have time to read everything), but wire dispey probably catches 60 - 70% of my fish. I would buy that setup before anything else.

[Tonysil]

Wow... That's quite a difference.  I see some that is just wire and some is copper.  Any preference?

[Paul Czarnecki]

Wire and copper are two different deployment devices. Wire is used in conjunction with dipsys and copper is used by itself.

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[Poles293]

I started with just two wire dipsey rods and did well for a year before adding down riggers, copper and lead cores. I would start with the wire dipsey rods first as they account for 50% or more of my catch. Everything works some of the time but the wire dipsey rods seem to work most of the time.

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[Egoody]

Do you run a short leader from the wire to the FF or flasher directly to the wire .

Thanks and Boat Safe

Egoody

[Landshark]

Wire to the dipsy, a leader from the dipsy to the FF. Leader length is often determined by the length of your boat and how far you can bring the rod up to be able to net the fish. Typically 5-8 ft

[Egoody]

Thank you......... And

Boat Safe

Egoody

[lineman49]

Just a suggestion, if you go to wire take a look at the Tropedo brand 19 strand wire. It does not kink real easy & you can tie knots in it almost as easy as mono. Maybe someone else will chime in here.

[Tonysil]

Wow.  I did wonder about knots / crimps etc. when using wire line.  I will definitely check that out.  Thank you!

[John E Powell]

Torpedo 19 strand, spend the few dollars more. It's easier on the guides and it gives you a warning if it gets damaged (it will form a small bird's nest where it's damaged); 7 strand wire can be difficult to see damage and you end up losing the dipsy, flasher, fly, and a couple ball bearing swivels.

They both can fail, the 19 strand variety just gives you the better chance of saving the rest of your gear..

Edited July 20, 2015 by John E Powell

[TyeeTanic]

I've always used 7 strand and never had a break off on the wire since I spooled 4 years ago. I would say it's pretty tough. The 19 strand is good to, my fishing partner only uses that version (we are both stubborn). 

 

I wouldn't be overly concerned about 7 strand. Sure the 19 is more flexible, but 7 strand is also flexible enough, and the strands are thicker wire, so they don't break as easy. 19 strand wire can get the individual strands breaking easier.  Probably the best feature of the 19 strand is that it doesn't have as much memory as the 7 strand, so it doesn't curl as quickly.

 

I find with both the 7 and 19 strand it's a matter of how you treat the wire. Keep it tight, avoid pig tails, cut off when you start seeing curling.  Curling will happen on both (sooner on the 7 strand) in the first 5 ft of the line, primarily due to spinning of the SD (even with spro BB swivels), especially when fleas accumulate on knots. When you see this, just cut it off and reterminate. Takes 5 minutes, not even.

[Egoody]

I have an awful time attaching a swivel to the end of the wire. There always seems to be a "lump" where I make the termination. I just know will get caught in the rod guide. I try to do a haywire twist and put a heat shrink over it to make it as smooth as possible. I expect that as soon as the termination gets to the guide the line will snap and I will loose leader, FF and/or lure.

What is the best way to make a smooth termination from the steel to swivel?

Thanks and

Boat safe

Egoody

[TyeeTanic]

Use this knot:

 

http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm

 

However, do step 3, 4 then 1 and 2.

 

It's easier to tie the overhand knot first before the swivel gets in the way.

[Egoody]

This knot looks good for attaching a swivel, but I was looking for one that I can reel up through the guides and onto the reel. Do you know of one for that?

Maybe it's just the steel line I have. its Mason, 7strand, .021 dia and it's stiffer than all get out.

Thanks and

Boat safe

Egoody

[Sk8man]

I've always used crimps  with wire instead of knots (despite all the contrary opinions on here ) and basically without any problems but you have to use the exactly right crimp for the wire diameter you are using and you have to crimp them properly so that the edge of them doesn't sever the wire from back and forth motion on it. and it becomes "one" with the wire. I use all roller tip rods for wire so the crimps go through them fine. I have used twillis  but got away from them many years ago as the roller tips are easier on the wire and connections go through them easier. Just the way I do it and maybe not for everybody

Edited July 21, 2015 by Sk8man