installing twill tip on shimano tdr?

[slickrick]

having great luck with kings on braid divers, now the fleas have arrived so I recently purchased a shimano tdr 9' MH to hopefully run wire line.  the tip looks to be all sealed around the guide.  I tried heating up the guide and tip with a lighter but it would not budge.  anyone have experience modifying these rods or better off buying another one that it will remove easily. 

[tlr426]

Usually with wire it's a good idea to have a rod with metal guides on it because the wire cuts into regular guides and will wear them out quickly. Personally I use the okuma copper lead core rods and find the work well. They are a little more then the TRD but the tip will come off easy with a lighter. And they have metal guides. I am sure that there are other options but the okuma is a relatively cheap way fish with wire.

[BAZOOKAJOE]

You don't need a rod with metal guides. That one will work. Heat it up until the cement melts. She'll come off.

[John Kelley]

You don't need a rod with metal guides. That one will work. Heat it up until the cement melts. She'll come off.

I have done this with 2 of them and it works well!  Bazooka Joe is right, you just didn't heat it enough.  Get it hot enough where the glue starts on fire, and then just pull with a long nose pliers, and you will be all set.

[slickrick]

thanks, ill try that.  I was afraid to muck up a brand new rod. 

[John E Powell]

I've changed and installed literally hundreds of tips. Some tips are fixed with a one part adhesive, others are epoxied. Both can be removed, adhesive tips are fairly easy but epoxied tips can vary and require care. The goal it to heat the metal very quickly to break the epoxy bond without cooking the resin that binds the fibers in the tip area of the rod blank.

With epoxied tips its best to have three hands (someone holds the rod) or an additional clamp or vise to hold the rod.

Small butane or propane torches work best, but a lighter or candle can also work. You'll also need some pliers and some cold water to cool the tip between attempts if it doesn't come off the first try.

Grab the legs of the tip that support the ring with the pliers held in a manner that will allow you to twist the guide tube as it is heated. Apply intense heat to the tube for a split second while gently twisting the tube. If it comes free continue to twist as you pull it off the rod blank.

If it does not come off, COOL THE TIP FIRST with water, dry it off, and try again. This is really important. You do not want to cook the resinous the rod blank from repeated or continual heating! Eventually the epoxy will fail from the rapid heating and cooling.

Some things to look for: Sometimes the people assembling these get sloppy and wrap thread up onto the tip tube and then that gets epoxied on the outside too. If you have a rod like this it's best to cut back the epoxied thread to the end of the guide tube before attempting to heat the tube.

The posters above make it seem easy, and it is if the tip is adhered with adhesive. It can be challenging to not damage the rod with epoxied tips. Over the years I've actually had to split the tube with a file on a few epoxied tips that refused to budge.

To install a twili tip, follow the directions in the pack. To others who might read this, the correct product and method to adhere regular rod tips is this: http://www.flexcoat.com/learning-center/instructional-videos/installin-a-tip-top/

The product he's using in the video is Flex Coat Thermal Plastic Tip Top Adhesive. I use this for most of the repairs I do and also on most of my custom rods.

Hope this helps...

Oh yeah, as mentioned in a post above there's no benefit at all to heat adhesive, on purpose, until it ignites. The melting point of the adhesive is about 220 degrees. Flaming the adhesive risks damaging the blank in the short and/or long term.

Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited July 17, 2015 by John E Powell

[momay4000]

I've changed and installed literally hundreds of tips. Some tips are fixed with a one part adhesive, others are epoxied. Both can be removed, adhesive tips are fairly easy but epoxied tips can vary and require care. The goal it to heat the metal very quickly to break the epoxy bond without cooking the resin that binds the fibers in the tip area of the rod blank.

With epoxied tips its best to have three hands (someone holds the rod) or an additional clamp or vise to hold the rod.

Small butane or propane torches work best, but a lighter or candle can also work. You'll also need some pliers and some cold water to cool the tip between attempts if it doesn't come off the first try.

Grab the legs of the tip that support the ring with the pliers held in a manner that will allow you to twist the guide tube as it is heated. Apply intense heat to the tube for a split second while gently twisting the tube. If it comes free continue to twist as you pull it off the rod blank.

If it does not come off, COOL THE TIP FIRST with water, dry it off, and try again. This is really important. You do not want to cook the resinous the rod blank from repeated or continual heating! Eventually the epoxy will fail from the rapid heating and cooling.

Some things to look for: Sometimes the people assembling these get sloppy and wrap thread up onto the tip tube and then that gets epoxied on the outside too. If you have a rod like this it's best to cut back the epoxied thread to the end of the guide tube before attempting to heat the tube.

The posters above make it seem easy, and it is if the tip is adhered with adhesive. It can be challenging to not damage the rod with epoxied tips. Over the years I've actually had to split the tube with a file on a few epoxied tips that refused to budge.

To install a twili tip, follow the directions in the pack. To others who might read this, the correct product and method to adhere regular rod tips is this: http://www.flexcoat.com/learning-center/instructional-videos/installin-a-tip-top/

The product he's using in the video is Flex Coat Thermal Plastic Tip Top Adhesive. I use this for most of the repairs I do and also on most of my custom rods.

Hope this helps...

Oh yeah, as mentioned in a post above there's no benefit at all to heat adhesive, on purpose, until it ignites. The melting point of the adhesive is about 220 degrees. Flaming the adhesive risks damaging the blank in the short and/or long term.

Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I realize John is the rod legend, but in all honesty I simply cut my tips off with a hacksaw and gorilla glued the twilli's on to my rods.......and this was 8 years ago. They are still strong as new and I've never had any problems. It took me about 1 minute to do.

Good luck,

Chris

[John E Powell]

You can certainly do that too ^^. Just realize, you void most mfg's warranty by shortening the blank.

😢