Leadcore or wire ?

[muskie magnet]

Looking to add to my arsenal ...right now I run 2 manual riggers with stackers, all with spoons(all I have) and 1 rod down the chute with a 2oz snap weight and a stick or spoon. Should I buy leadcore or wire combos next and what new baits should I get ...j plugs, flasher/fly, dodger /spoon..etc. Not catching many fish lately and feel a need to expand for success. New to salmon fishing, this is my 1st(expensive) year. Thanks Gary

Edited July 23, 2015 by muskie magnet

[tlavan]

Gary:

 

WITHOUT A DOUBT, go with a couple wire combos to run dipsies on with spin doctors an flies. Even on the rough seas days, you can run all your rigger stuff and the two dipsies. 

 

Tim

[ReelPower]

Dipsey Diver rods/reels and flasher fly combos would be my next investment if I was you.

[muskie magnet]

Are you guys running the Chinook brand dipsey's or just the lure jensen ones...what size? Best color, brand and size on flasher/fly and spin doctors.....where do you shop for your stuff? I've been checking out EBay. Thanks, looks like wire rods are next !!

[GeckoGuy]

Are you guys running the Chinook brand dipsey's or just the lure jensen ones...what size? Best color, brand and size on flasher/fly and spin doctors.....where do you shop for your stuff? I've been checking out EBay. Thanks, looks like wire rods are next !!

 

I use the Lure Jenson Dipsy divers, and they work just fine for me.  Colors that have worked well for me are chrome and green, but I know many people swear by the clear divers.  I used to be confused on wire, so just to clear it up, dipsy setups are stainless wire with a line counter reel, while copper wire is a whole different setup that does not involve a diver, very similar to leadcore.  Just wanted to clear that up to be sure you don't buy the wrong wire.  I would definitely buy some dipsy setups before copper or leadcore.  As for flasher/flies, start with some ProTroll or Spindoctor paddles in green colors and matching A-Tom-Mik flies.  Good luck!

[TyeeTanic]

Wire divers for sure. They definitely catch more fish than the leadcores.

 

Size #1 dipseys are the most versatile. I can't remember what diameter that is in the luhr jenson.

[Sk8man]

Since this is your initial investment in this other stuff go with the wire and divers but I'd say go with the Chinook #5 divers rather than mess around with the others (although I use the 124 mm Deeper Divers). The Chinooks offer quite a bit less resistance on the wire and will dig real deep. It can make a noticeable difference in your results. Just be sure to hook them up in the recommended way. Just as an added comment....you can use the wire rods pretty much year around while the lead cores are more limited in scope

Edited July 23, 2015 by Sk8man

[BAITNH]

x2 on the chinook divers    just sand the edges

[muskie magnet]

I seen the chinook dipseys on Ebay and noticed they were being shipped from Rochester.Assume they are for sale locally?

[Sk8man]

http://www.chinookdiver.com/

[muskie magnet]

LOL...cool, I work right around the corner on Emerson.

[muskie magnet]

just ordered 2 9'okuma rod with twili tips and okuma 30dx linecounters with 1000' of #30 wire..$245

Also ordered 1 leadcore 10 color okuma rod and reel combo..$95.00...next is flasher / flies, spin doctors..squid..dodgers...cowbells...etc...meat rigs...So I will have 2 riggers with stackers,2 dipsey and a leadcore down the chute...7 rods out and thats going to have to do.

Edited July 24, 2015 by muskie magnet

[Sk8man]

When you say "stackers" are you referring to stacked rods as in a couple per downrigger? If so, you may want to run sliders instead. A little less trouble and increases options for running more or different equipment

Edited July 24, 2015 by Sk8man

[muskie magnet]

What exactly are "sliders" ?

[Speed]

Wire divers are the way to go for sure but you will also need some strong rod holders to put them in as the divers pull hard and put a lot of pressure on the holders they are in

[Adk1]

I run one mono diver and one wire diver. The mono diver really doesnt go below 30-40 feet  I would say, but  Ireally dont know. I will be switching it over to wire soon.

[Sk8man]

Sliders are short sections of line (e.g.2-8 ft long) with a swivel at each end used to run a second lure on a single downrigger.  They can be free sliding or fixed at a certain point on your main line once it is let out in a number of ways (different types of "releasing mechanisms from use of rubbber bands to specific designed releases). . The process is basically you run out your main lure as usual and fix it in your regular downrigger release about 15 ft down. Then you attach one swivel on the end of short section of fluoro or mono (slider) with your selected lure at the other end right on the mainline and fasten the snap and let it slide down the mainline and let your downrigger down to the desired depth. The slider lure will seek its own depth and it may vary with speed and depth and weight or type of lure up and down the mainline and often locates in the bow of the mainline. Fish will sometimes come very close to the boat  or right into the prop wash to grab the slider lure (usually a spoon). This process allows you to run two spoons per downrigger rather than stacking multiple rods per downrigger. The fixed slider is usually attached with a rubber band or other desired release to the downrigger wire at a specific depth after the main lure is deployed normally and it maintains the spoon at that depth rather than allowing it to slide up and down the mainline. Either of these versions can be very effective catching trout or salmon and with a little care major tangles can be avoided.

Edited July 24, 2015 by Sk8man

[TyeeTanic]

I have got a lot of fish recently on the slider.

 

6 ft free slider leader, 20# fluoro.

Smallest BB swivels you can find.

 

Let out you rigger line as normal down to the desired depth.

 

Clamp swivel around rod line and drop into the water. It will naturally drop

about 1/2 way down the line.

 

Make sure the swivel on the line is small enough that it can't get past your swivel on the main rod line.

 

If a fish hits on the slider, it will run all the way down to the main line swivel and stop. This means there's a lot of slack initially, and you need to reel really, really fast to take up that slack and avoid losing the fish.

 

Caught a 25 lb'r the other weekend on a free slider.

[muskie magnet]

Ok ..so I take it I'm using a snap swivel and tying the lure side to the looped end and snapping it on the main line after I have run my rigger down to desired depth...this will slide down my main line approx half way. No need for a second rod and less likely to tangle...correct?

[Sk8man]

You have a swivel snap at each end of the slider. The lure goes on one end and the other you snap onto the main line once the lure is down far enough for separation of it from the main lure (I use 15 ft as an example) I then snap the swivel end of the slider on the main line and let down the downrigger weight to the desired depth. You CAN set the downrigger to the desired depth and do it but depending on the weight of the spoon it may not travel very far down the mainline (e.g. a light small flutter spoon).

Edited July 24, 2015 by Sk8man

[xracer4844]

Just remember, any time you are running sliders, your rod will release from the rigger, grab the rod and crank that reel until you feel the weight of the fish. New people I fish with grab the rod and don't feel the fish, and assume there is nothing there. 

[Missdemeanor]

When running sliders or even deep riggers, I tell people " when that rod pops, leave it in the holder and reel your a$$ off." once you get tight line on the fish, pull the rod out of the holder and fight em. Much better hook up rates.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited July 29, 2015 by Missdemeanor

[xracer4844]

When running sliders or even deep riggers, I tell people " when that rod pops, leave it in the holder and reel your a$$ off." once you get tight line on the fish, pull the rod out of the holder and fight em. Much better hook up rates.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Lake Ontario United mobile app

x2 - I run to the rod, crank it as fast as I can in the rod holder until I feel the weight then I grab the rod tip up high to make sure you have a strong hook up - I'm fishing out of a new boat now that has spring loaded rod holders, as soon as the rod releases from the rigger it pops strait up, so now i just grab the rod and reel and crank it until I feel the fish. 

[LBT1]

Your choice of rods is very similar to our set up. We run 1 Dipsey rod out on port side and one dipsey  out starboard, then we have 2 down riggers with 2 rods . One down rigger runs Moore temp and speed torpedo with a  Flasher and spoons with one slider on top. A clean set up without all the rods. Last weekend on Sunday, We had Fish on all morning with a Big double header at 10:10  am at 195 foot of water down 95. Also We put Grand pas old Lucky favorite  Lead core out the middle and let all 10 colours go with 20 feet of mono 50 lb. We run 5 rods and 2 with sliders = 7 .One fish peeled over 450 feet off  on the port side Dipsey rod  WEEEEE. Hold ON      

[LBT1]

I agree  When the tip pops ,Crank, Crank, Crank, Then when you feel the fish set it. One must master the art of a Downrigger. Many a Great Fish have been lost because of the Bowline slack release. Speaking from Experience myself..