Fish Finder/GPS recommendation

[TBrovata]

So I began the daunting task of researching a new Fish Finder/GPS and as expected I feel like I'm going to make the wrong decision and buy something with a lot of fluff or the opposite and not get exactly what I need.  I've been looking at the Lowrance Elite 5 HDI trying to keep it within a $600 budget.  I'd like to hear some thoughts you guys may have on things I don't want to be without and conversely things I could do without.  What units have been working good for you guys and what ones to stay away from.  Is Navionics worth the extra few bucks, etc...

 

Thanks,

Tony

[Sk8man]

Tony you have a PM

[TyeeTanic]

Raymarine good. Hummingbird good. Lowrance good. Simrad good.

 

I wouldn't get hung up on brand. I use Lowrance, and it's great, but the raymarine is a great unit (my buddy has one) and the Simrad is great (my other buddy has it). I know some good charter captains that swear by Hummingbird, and I believe it is a good unit too.

 

I would focus on features.

 

INTERFACE - Firstly, touch screen gets you more screen for the size, but in terms of functionality I think I liked the Simrad the best, it had both touch functionality and then a cursor button on the side for quick zooming and moving, plus setting weigh points. It's nice when you're fingers are a little wet, and way more accurate than using your fingers.

 

CHIRP - good technology.

 

MAPS - yes to Navionics. Around our normal fishing spots, we don't really need the maps as we are familar enough with where the fish normally hold up. But in new locations, or locations we don't fish a lot out of (tournaments), it's good to have a map that shows the structure (1' to max 3' contour separation).

 

CONNECTIVITY - does it have blue tooth/wifi tech that will allow you to connect/control from a phone or tablet? This will allow you to dual screen your FF on a second device (map on one, sonar on another). Why not mount the sonar at the back of the boat, where you adjust your rod depths, so you don't need to continuously ask "what are the depths?"

 

SIZE - I discuss this a little below in PRICE, as the two are related. But go online and get the screen dimensions, than draw them out on a blank piece of paper. Draw all the units overlapping with a different color to represent each unit. You will get a sence for what size you really like/need and how much different even units in the same size range (5", 7", 9") are.  Think about all the data you need to overlay on the screen (speed, depth, temp, voltage, bearing, etc.) and where that will go, and how much space you lose because of that.

 

PRICE - you don't need to spend $2000, but I do find on the lower end of the price range ($500) you do get a lot more for your money if you are willing to just spend another $100 or $200, especially size.  There is a big difference between the area of a 5" and 7" screen. Also one 7" screen isn't the same area as another brand's 7" screen, due to aspect ratio - wide screen vs. 4:3.

Some will sell as a 7" screen, but are in fact 6.5" diagonal (it just happens to be the model that competes in the 7" size range). I basically take the specs off the websites and obtain the length and width, and calculate the area. Then take the price and divide by area, so you know truly how many $/sq inch you are actually paying, and it will shock you how different it is from one brand to the other, with similar/same features. 

[TyeeTanic]

Another thing to keep in mind is Transducer quality/brand and mounting.

 

You can have a great head unit, but a transducer that is sub-standard, and especially any transducer that is not mounted correctly, is going to lead to a pretty dissapointing result.  I use a transom mount transducer, and my friends use through hull mounted transducers. The through hulls seem to give a better picture. They can mark bait balls at much higher speeds than I can (30 mph vs. 10 to 15 mph). I think a lot of it has to do with prop wash, and interference from the chines - but believe me I have used the preferred location according to LOWRANCE.

 

Secondly, watch your electrical install to avoid interference. Run a clean cable (with a fuse) from your battery to your head unit. Don't run it next to any other big electrical cables (engine cables). Keep the length as short as possible, and do not coil up excess (coiling up causing some pretty interesting electrical conditions, but will leave Electrical 101 for another day).

[Yankee Troller]

Look into the Helix 5 or 7 from Humminbird. If you have any specific questions I can help. Also, I have a post on here for settings for them that will make it do what you want for trolling.

[TyeeTanic]

^^^ He's one of the good charters I know that uses Hummingbird. Was waiting for him to chime in. LOL.

[TBrovata]

Thanks guys! As usual, all great advice!