Fuse Box or no fuse box?

[njg0621]

So I bought a boat this spring, (2005 Smokercraft 192 Ultima) and have been using it as is all year.  The fishfinder and trolling motor need upgrading to the latest and greatest so I just purchased a new fish finder.  The boat is also equipped with 4 electric Cannon downriggers.  While hooking up the new fish finder I was looking for the fuse panel to hook it directly to.   I can't find a fuse panel anywhere on the boat and it looks like EVERYTHING is hooked to the main battery with inline fuses.  The fishfinder currently hooked up doesn't even appear to have any fuse associated with it.  This boat is in like new condition and very well taken care of.  My questions are: Is it possible that the boat has no fuse panel at all? Is anyone familiar with this boat and know where the fuse panel is if it does exist?  What is my best option for connecting the new fishfinder? When I say everything is hooked up to the main battery I mean Fishfinder, 4 downriggers, radio and motor.  Any advice is appreciated! 

[drlfc]

If you cannot find a fuse panel install one (or more) now. Run 6 gauge marine grade stranded wire from the battery to the fuse panel and hook your electronics to the panel using the appropriate amperage fuses...i.e. 3 amp fuses for electronics and 30 amp fuses for down riggers, etc. I had the same problem and have since installed 3 fuse panels in various places to accommodate the myriad of electrical needs on my boat.

Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[Richard]

I have the same boat but an older version. I do not have a fuse box. All inline or resetable fuses. I have in line fuses on each of my four downriggers and also on my fish finder. These boats were built pretty much bare bones. I mo longer use this boat for lake O and have since purchased a 240 Thompson. Replaced its box from the glass fuses to a more modern box with plastic fork type fuses. Picked it up at west marine. A much better set up.

 

Good luck and be safe.

 

 

P.S. Love the boat. Just not too good in a chop over three feet. Made a bow deflector for the occasional wave you may get over the bow so I could get back to port safely if the seas should build. Pick your days and you will be fine. That being said I have been out in five footers and never felt unsafe with proper boat operation. May take you longer to get back but I got back. Mine is paired with a 115 Merc. four stroke. A good match in my eyes.

Edited September 12, 2015 by Richard

[Thun]

I just added a second fuse panel, a Blue Seas with ignition protection for gas powered boats, for all those things I use with the kicker running and the main engine not charging the cranking battery while trolling. I ran 6 guage wire rated for 125 amps, which needs to be fused at or near the battery to prevent the wire from burning so I added a Blue Seas terminal post fuse holder with a 100 amp fuse to the positive battery post. Just be careful not to hook up any 12 volt electronics to a 24 volt trolling motor battery system.

[Rippin'Line]

I did a wiring project on my boat this past spring. Cleaned out a bunch of wiring that wasn't being used and organized some of what was (still a mess but is better than when i bought it). I put a heavy duty bus bar in the back of the boat and ran 4 gauge wire from it to the battery. I then ran my riggers with 30 amp inline fuses directly to the bus bar. My front end electronics (Fish finder, Fish hawk etc) went to a fuse panel that was wired to a switch on the dash then back to the bus bar using 10 gauge wire. Doing it this way with a flip of a switch all my electronics switch on or off so there's no chance of leaving anything on. It really cleans up the wiring that may be attached to the battery as well.   

[CaptSpike]

Makes you wonder why the manufacturers don't do it right from the factory. How much is it really saving the consumer.

Spike

[jimski2]

Your bilge pump should be wired directly to the battery.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[Rippin'Line]

Agree with the Bilge direct to the battery. VHF as well in case of emergency. there are less fail points that way.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

[meangreencj7]

my new polar craft dose not have a fuse panel either, It is set up with resetable fuses right under the switches. when I wired my depthfinder and downriggers I place in line fuses next to the battery so I can get to them. 

[salmonite]

my new polar craft dose not have a fuse panel either, It is set up with resetable fuses right under the switches. when I wired my depthfinder and downriggers I place in line fuses next to the battery so I can get to them. 

 

same thing with fishmaster's

[jimski2]

The fuse installed on the positive lead next to the battery protects the entire system. I had a wire short out when a cannonball wore the insulation off the wire that was laying in the tray on the side of the boat.

[RSF]

Always read the switch/fuse panel instructions for Maximum amperage per switch. Same with items to be connected. If any items don't have the information on them or no instructions pamphlets are available, I'd look-up and consult the manufacturer.  

 

As mentioned above re the bilge pump..it can spike hence hooking up direct to battery. I didn't but had to rewire (14 to 10 gauge) and change out one of the switch panel switches and fuse to accommodate. Above all, the main line from the fuse/switch panel 10-8 gauge depending on length of run, must be fused 8-10 inches from but directly to battery positive.

I add all max amperage of all lights/pump/marine radio... and subtract 20% and use that amperage rated fuse at battery. If it blows and there's no short or loose connection within all connections, I'll replace the battery fuse adding five-amps.