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Posted

Won't lines get tied up when it releases? Also the other thing is, won't it get wrapped around the main line that trails behind the release? I'm looking at a down trigger setup... made a little extra this week lol

Posted

MIke- If you get a downrigger (s) let me know (PM) and when I'm down there some Thursday afternoon I'll show you how it works.

Posted (edited)

Sounds good. I found one in the classifieds for $250 electric, looks a bit big for my little boat tho. I might do with a new one depending on if I get these next 3 cotton woods. Three of them over 100 ft tall.

Rubber band sounds like a good idea. Braces size rubber bands or the ones a little bigger?

Just found 3 for $105 each. Probably get one today if the guy answers.

Edited by FishingTheFL
Posted (edited)

I can't seem to find the right balance, of course I haven't found a flat day to try them. They get what ever I am running way out to the side but the front seems to be lifted. I ran a storm stick bait off it with 1 oz snap weight 50 ft in front and it seemed to do the same thing.

Tx-44 are the ones that can be used either port or starboard right? I planned on trying today but it didn't work out, glass broke first thing... always next weekend.

The front will almost always be lifted. just the nature of the bait pulling down. If they are getting your lines out to the side and not diving you're good.

Edited by Chas0218
Posted (edited)

Mike I had two Riveria manual downriggers with 4 ft booms on my 13 ft Whaler in the old days and they worked out real well because they were almost like short outriggers :lol:  and I also had 15 ft outriggers on it :)  As far as the rubber bands I use the ones from the Dollar Store that are used for girls hair and they work fine. The ones for braces are expensive and hard to come by these days. The shortest weakest ones from Staples will also work. Stay safe.... those cottonwoods are very unpredictable and can break almost anyplace they are so soft; especially in the wind. Back when I was doing it  I hated them and also the Elms, Locust and Ironwood but for different reasons :) If you can do it you may want to think about two downriggers to even out the weight distribution in the small boat especially if you intend to use heavier weight on it.

Edited by Sk8man
Posted (edited)

Won't lines get tied up when it releases? Also the other thing is, won't it get wrapped around the main line that trails behind the release? I'm looking at a down trigger setup... made a little extra this week lol

 

No it doesn't.  The rigger release is on the main line that comes from the rod.  The slider is connected to the rod line by hooking a swivel through it (I use the smallest ball bearing swivels you can find for this one). 

 

To let it out, I normally set my downrigger line up to the depth I want.  When the downrigger rod is all setup (as if you were normally fishing with this rod), I attach the slider line to the rod line, and then throw the spoon into the water off to one side. It basically trails back behind the main rod line, and then grips from drag and slides down the line. It stops around 1/3 to 1/2 way down (depending on how much blowback you have on the rod line).  The rod line isn't straight down to the clip, it actually has a "C" shape from rod tip, out due to drag, and then back in to the clip. So the free slider goes to the furthest point out in the "C" shape, and then no more (if it went further down, the line would have to beat drag, which it can't).  When a fish hits, it might not release right away, but you'll see the rod bouncing. The fish will pull the slider line down the main line. At this stage I pop the release and reel FAST!  Take up all the slack quick and when that swivel hits the main line lure, it stops and you have full tension on the line. You bring in the fish and there are no tangles. The swivel is close to the main lure, and the fish is trailing that on the slider lure.

 

I catch a lot of fish using free sliders.

Edited by TyeeTanic
Posted

Good detailed description Tyee

Posted

I usually run solo. If I run two riggers I can only run one more pole which would probably core with a board. I might just do the one rigger on this boat and when I upgrade get two riggers. I probably could get a partner to go with me if I had a more comfortable boat lol

Posted

Mike Dan is right both riggers and dipseys much like your chain saw and pole clip are different but useful tools in the arsenal :) 

Posted

I had similar issues with my church boards, then one day a 2 watt bulb came on in my head, what if I send out the dipsy to the length I want on a O setting and only send it out a few feet? then I can see which way I need to go with the weight, 2 or 3 pulling them in and back out I got them dialed in!!😄😄 just an idea

Posted

I usually run solo. If I run two riggers I can only run one more pole which would probably core with a board. I might just do the one rigger on this boat and when I upgrade get two riggers. I probably could get a partner to go with me if I had a more comfortable boat lol

 

I would definitely consider 1 rigger rod with a slider and one dipsy rod. Dipsy's catch about 3 to 4 times more fish for me than the leadcore or copper.  If fish are up high (top 30ft) then running a core might be a good idea, perhaps first thing in the morning. But as fish go deeper, then I'd definitely trade the core for a dipsey.

 

One way to keep core in the mix is to make up a SWR rod. This is a downrigger rod with 2 colors of core on it, and a 15 ft fluoro leader.  The core gets the lure below the rigger weight wake. However, with a SWR you cannot use a slider, as it will stop on the knots and tangle.

Posted

I been meaning to look up slide divers. Still got a lot to learn. Suppose to pick those DRs tomorrow but universal in the truck popped a top... if isn't one thing it's another. Good ol'Murphy's law.

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