Bass Boat Hull Repair- Fiber Glass

[FishingTheFL]

I'm currently tearing the floor out to fix a couple cracks that have been leaking. The one crack has a clear hole.

The plan is to lay some fiber on the inside of the boat in the area where the damage is to get the shape. Then grind the outside to the new fiber and resin. Then shape the outside using the interior as a form.

The part I have questions about is below the first stringer is the main beam and it looks as tho one of the other cracks I have to fix is below the main beam of that side. Can I get away with doing a light grind, filling the seam full of glass sand it down then patch over top of it, sand it down and it not crack again. Or should I just bite the bullet and fix that one from the inside as well since the floor is going to be open... I guess I plan on fiber glassing the floor back in for integrity and keep the new stringers dry.. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

[rolmops]

A crack under a stringer is a crack on a tension point. You can seal the crack any way you want,but unless you fix the problem that causes the cracks (bad stringers?) you are just putting a band-aid on. 

[FishingTheFL]

Yup replacing the stringer on the damaged side. The undamaged side I'm going to drill a small hole down in it and see if it's rotted. If so I'm going to put CPSE threw a serious of small holes. Its the main beam I'm worried about. There is a spot where some dark water come threw and stained the bottom but if it's damaged, I want to fix it before I close up the floor. But that also means taking out a main beam that is literally wrapped in glass. Might be just wrapped and bound to the floor.

Soon as the frost is gone in an hour I'll get pictures.

[FishingTheFL]

Two main pics

[FishingTheFL]

Length of boat

[BRUCE]

HI I would say to watch some video,s on stringers and repairs.l have found a 4 inch tile blade on a small electric grinder cuts fiber glass stringers like butter and a small electric chain saw gets the rotten wood and also cleans the fiberglass up without chewing up the glass much better than 36 24 on grinder (No oil in chain saw) good luck in the way you plain to fix it. ( work in a well ventilated safe place baby powder helps with fiber glass itch as well as paint suite and mask and gloves .

Sent from my C771 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[FishingTheFL]

I've got couple layers on and mask. I'll post more pictures as I go... at this point I should of just pulled the motor off and separate it. Oh well it's my project and in the end I'll have more leg room and a wind shield.

Here's the plan. Lay New stringer back to where the strongest piece of rotted wood is. Then inject wood stabilizer epoxy into the rest of the wood. Where they but together I plan over laying the fiber glass a couple layers thicker. This will save me from cutting up the rest of the back where the battery and gas tanks go. Ultimately I think I should cut it open and bite the bullet and put new stringer all the way back, replace the center beam. .. or at least use the wood stabilizer and grind from the outside in small sections and repair as I go.

[rolmops]

Don't worry about the fiberglass being attached to whatever it may be. The fiber glass around that stringer probably has a thousand cracks that are invisible,but still large enough for water to get in. You should count on most of the wood inside being rotten so get rid of it.

Also,put 2 layers of epoxy paint on the new stringer wood before you glass it in, so even if the fiberglass around it cracks again(and it will) the wood itself will not rot

[Xxx]

Just a little thought for your exterior work, when sanding good fiberglass save the dust, put in a clean container. When ready to fix the outside crack, cut out the bad area use masking tape as a guide as to where to cut. Sand each side, take the powder you saved the powder has all the same ingredients as the matting, mix the resin and hardener in the powder to a paste force it in crack with puddy knife, then feather it out to the sanded area, now take masking tape and put it over the area and shape under the tape, this will a smooth surface when hard just remove tape and fine tune with palm sander. I have used this theory to put the ribs back under boats. Learned this stuff while working for a guy that fixed smashed corvettes. He made a mint, the products aren't that expensive, it's kind of like electricity, everyone is afraid of it. Good luck be patient, we also used red heat bulbs to get heat in hard to get area.

[FishingTheFL]

Thanks for the info guys. I got to replace the main beam so I'm taking the whole floor up and taking out both beams and ribs, stringers whatever you wanna call them.I like the idea of the paste for the crack I didn't post picture off.

I got most the floor up, foam out, bug still have 1/3 of the floor to get up. After that it's cut the ribs and main beams out... it a going to be a slow process with rain coming and then freezing temps. Goal for now is get the floor out.

[rolmops]

Nothing in winter is half as good as preparing and repairing your rig for next season.

Just look at it as a lousy day in Paradise.

[FishingTheFL]

Nothing in winter is half as good as preparing and repairing your rig for next season.

Just look at it as a lousy day in Paradise.

Yup, and might make this a regular think. Find old boats for winter projects so if we get a winter like last year, when I'm not plowing I'm grinding lol. Kinda fun.

[Xxx]

I was never fortunate enough to purchase a turn key and go fishing boat. To be able to have the "size" boat I had to take a prodject boat. Plus I fixed a lot of boats for guys. I wish I knew about this site before I bought my boat, 22fter Sea Ray cuddy. Good luck once your done it will be better than new!!

[FishingTheFL]

The area that is cracked, should I put a thin layer of glass on the inside then use the puddy on the outside pressed into the crack then put a layer over top of that? Then sand again before paint? Or just a layer inside, puddy in the crack and on the outside feathered, then sanded painted? Its raining out but I'll try get pictures of the holes... their all right were seems meet so I gotta do something to restrength the holes.

[rolmops]

If you put a strong support on the inside you will probably have the liquid seep down into the cracks. I would mix some powder in and let it seep down from above while having some tape on the bottom to make sure that you will not have bumps underneath.But not being there, I can't make a proper judgement call. Whatever way you go,as long as you strengthen and overlap the cracks,the rest is just cosmetics.

[TileMan Dan]

Just a few tips to offer. Working with fiberglass and resin isn't all difficult. Prep your work areas well and cut all your mats before your start your lay up work. Clean thoroughly with acetone. The expoxy resins dont like cold weather will take forever to set and they dont like hot either. Wet your mat thoroughly so it becomes clear. Follow up all fiberglassing with at least 1 coat of gel coat or the resin with break down over time. It seems you have a pretty good grip on your task at hand. Just dont rush things and it will work out well for you. Send pics of completed repairs, am very interested to see your results.

[FishingTheFL]

How long is for ever because when I had a buddy do a temp patch it seemed like it hardened up real quick. With in 5 mins or so... I know it's going to be pain and tedious but so worth it in the end. Would love to be out catching perch instead grinding glass.

[TileMan Dan]

Its all dependent on temperature. Fortunately with the mild temps we have of late set up times should be reasonable. When its cold it can take days for the resin to dry and become take free.

[FishingTheFL]

Are you sure your talking about the right resin? Maybe I used the wrong stuff last time? It heated up so hot last time you could light a small stick on the "puck" of left over resin in the bottom of the plastic cup we were using. Looks like I'll have to find a warm garage to do the rest. Fun Fun. I'll get some pictures today of the progress since it's not raining so bad. Yesterday it was too muddy lol

[Sk8man]

Hey Mike You may want to double check with Fran Barrett about the resin and materials just to make sure before going too far with things if you're unsure. He really knows his stuff.

[SylvanTroller]

Check out the i-boats forum. There is a "boat" load of info there with pictures of how others have done what your doing. It's a great resource and everyone on there like here is happy and willing to share their knowledge.

[FishingTheFL]

Thanks. I'll give it a look.

I gotta go to Barrett and pick his mind about the fuel leak. I don't know if it's even a leak from the sounds of it that older 60hp Mercurys seem to just have extra gas come out the carb if you leave the fuel line on... always gotta wipe up a bit before launching but other then that motor run a great... I'll get my fiber and resin from there so I know I get the right stuff

[FishingTheFL]

Anyone know if the ply floor and beams but flush against the transforms with fiber glass layer in between. Or they but up flush with wood exposed... I hope the first and not the later... I really don't wanna take the motor off... ugh...

[rolmops]

Not sure with your rig,but very often a small strip is left open so water can drain down, but then just as often, if the floor has been redone,you will see what you are afraid of.

[FishingTheFL]

I have a feeling that the lower half is rotted..I don't know how far up but guess if I'm doing the rest... guess I better do the transom too... it's just going to cause the floor to rot out again..