Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I use raka epoxy from Florida. The thin 127 for wetting out, and wood wicking. The 900 medium viscosity for second coats. It's good stuff, get lots of acetone for cleaning stuff and a box of disposable gloves. I've got the epoxy, the rollers you'll need. Looks like the weather will be good next week when we get past Monday night.

Posted

26d080efb4a3a551a3ddee7e1bad2950.jpg

Got transom area ready, started sanding around the cracks and holes... Power in outlet died... Currently trying to sort that out.. Ugh... So... The plan is to lay fiber matting over the outside (not sure how many layers is good but going to try 4), then cut little strips to fill the hole, then lay another 2 layers on the inside.

092d56d3eef0ba44b2aad65f2868c04a.jpg

68574ce6e4f97e271283059ac6bce9ba.jpg

Wondering if I should just open the hole up or leave some the old glass there so I don't have to fill with so many layers. Video I watched said 4 to 5 layers then do the puddy trick basically and sand.

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

Nice work. Bevel the holes on the outside. Get foil tape and apply it to the outside. Before you put the 1st part of the transom in, fill em with thickened epoxy from the inside. Cracks need to be ground out and filled with fabric scraps. Don't grind into the existing fiberglass too far. That weakens the integrity. Just enough to get a channel to fill.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

How long for resin to setup in 55° to 60° temps. Trying to fix pits in the transom and the holes but doesn't seem like its warming up when I add hardener. I remember it getting hot, untouchable, when I paid a guy to patch the holes. Using a heat lamp at the moment to help it dry.

Tried using fiber glass dust to do the puddy trick. Must not added enough powder as it was runny.

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

How long for resin to setup in 55° to 60° temps. Trying to fix pits in the transom and the holes but doesn't seem like its warming up when I add hardener. I remember it getting hot, untouchable, when I paid a guy to patch the holes. Using a heat lamp at the moment to help it dry.

Tried using fiber glass dust to do the puddy trick. Must not added enough powder as it was runny.

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Add enough powder till it's just about paste, so that you can apply with a 1" puddy knife, yet still workable. You'll know when it's right, if anything let in on the runny side than a play dough consistency. Use wax paper then masking tape and a red heat lamp bulb. Good luck!! pap

Posted

Got white heat bulb on it. Color make a difference? Its tacking up but taking forever. Hope to get the holes done today and transom coats on. Next will stringers, floor, seats. Thinking 4 days of decent weather if everything goes right.

Knock on wood

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

There is a differance in the amount of heat the red vs. the white, red is hotter, but is it enough to make a differance I don't know. I always used the red bulbs, I noticed when I put a white bulb in the chicken coop the red is hotter.

Posted

It ended up curing but I didn't stick enough powder in to get it pasty. We ended up going to Lowes for more sanding discs and look at the plant selection... By the time I got home the cat knocked my thinner over... Spilled out even with cap fully closed... So I ended up sanding the entire bottom. Bottom is ready for repairs. Just need to sand the inside, wipe it down, and repair the holes.

What paint is good for the exterior hull? I read a little bit on it. Looks like most of it can be brushed or rolled on. Iboat forum I was reading, they talked mostly about gel coat and that you need a mold to gel coat? Going to keep it easy and go with roll on paint. I'll have to sand the rest of the old gel coat off the repaint the whole bottom hull correct?

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

I used Benjamin Moore M22 (or the zero VOC) equivalent using the roll and tip method on my Aluminum boat. The paint dries extremely hard, leveled well and had great shine. I used rustoleum top sides for the red accents same method similar results.

Posted

Home depot has rustoleum marine paint in gallon pails. It's good stuff if you trailer the boat. If you leave it in the water all season I'd use awlgrip. Check out boatpaintstore.com

Posted

You can just scuff the good sections with a red scotch brite pad or 220 sandpaper. If there are spider cracks all over, fabric and glass the bottom with the light surfboard fabric. Don't grind off all the gel. That is the waterproofing layer. Glass will absorb water and get soft, rotten.

Posted

Sounds like I better use good paint on the bottom that will stick then. There is a good 8 foot section about a foot wide that previous owner or mechanic removed and painted. I'll get pics soon. Its warming up outside. I might try fixing some of the holes as it warms up today with the heat bulb. Wednesday and Thursday look like the day to do the transom.

Other then the shoulders killing me from sanding on my back all day, its not so bad working with the glass and resin.

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted (edited)

2bcefdf69e66f4b9c1ab6371676e55e8.jpg

0bc5a44abf4820e2666929a0d34d39b5.jpg

So I sanded it all down. All the pits are from the guys patch job... Guess I gotta fill these... Tried two batches of puddy mix. First batch I made to thick, second was just about right. Sanded down nice. Got my piece for the transom. Soon as the weather turns again I'll be sticking that back in. Shouldn't be long now still lots more to go. Tomorrow high is 49° so I'll be doing as much sanding as I can while its cold out.

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited by FishingTheFL
Posted

67265f3fb11cd8fcec149541b7bbd130.jpg

So I'm trying to get this project finished this week. Can I fill this small pita with filler or do I have to sand them out? Any way to keep the bubbles out when I lay my resin and mat? I plan on laying a layer of mat over the outside then filling the hole from the inside with small cut pieces in the shape of the hole which I plan on making square shaped for easier cutting. After that laying another piece of mat over the inside.

If I can skip sanding all these little pits that will save a few hours... Seems like they would act as little anchors bonding with the surface that is there. Thoughts?

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

I would grind the bubbles out carefully and use filler. Get a good aluminum grover roller made for glossing. Gently stir the resin, keeps the bubbles to a minimum.

Posted

I'll work on sanding them down while the patches I tried to do cure. First one was perfect. Other two not so much. Heat lamp is helping them cure faster so I can hopefully get the whole bottom today. I gotta hit Lowes up for a jig saw to cut the transom. Once I get that back in I can get inside and start sanding

Sent from my XT1528 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...