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Posted

I have a 958 and it works well with the stock transducer. It doesn't mark well on plane with the stock transducer but while trolling have only noticed a few glitches. Most likely resolved with the newer software. It's simple to operate and seems to mark bait and fish well. I like the unit enough that I am thinking of upgrading the transducer to an airmar. I have only had it for two seasons but has not let me down yet and entering way points and cataloging and deleting tracks is easy. I do notice that the quick buttons on the side for switching between your presets can be a little finicky. But all together a good unit for the price.

Posted

Have been running these for 7 years. I've been on boats using all the other manufacturers, and you won't see anything else on my boat. If you have any specific questions ask away.

 

FYI......If you want to read sonar on plane you need to go with a thru-hull transducer.

 

I have a tutorial on here for settings we've found to work for us - http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/52046-humminbird-sonar-settings-for-models-7xx-8xx-9xx-11xx/?hl=11xx

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I like the tilted element models which mount nearly flush to the bottom and eliminate the need for a fairing block. I don't recommend this model ducer on an aluminum boat however, only glass.

Airmar makes transducers for the specific make of your fish finder as well as the deadrise of your hull. 

Posted

The one Vince is chatting up is an AIRMAR B60 or SS60 (B = Bronze SS = Stainless Steel). These are great for a boat that goes on a trailer. We had one on our Bayliner that went to our Humminbirds, and it was a great ducer. We opted for a thru-hull with a fairing block on the Trojan. Whether or not your eye can tell the difference between the two is up for debate, but talking to the guys at AIRMAR they say you'll get a little better picture with a fairing block ducer.

 

If you do go AIRMAR you'll want to stick with a ducer with 600w of power. Bigger isn't better here (1000w ducer). Going to 1000w gets you narrower beams on each frequency.

 

To be honest if you want to run a transom mount ducer I've heard multiple people rave over the one that comes with them from Humminbird.

Posted

They make that with two different tilted elements. You need to figure out the dead rise of your boat, and then pick the one with the closest tilted element. I'm gonna say that's probably the one though.

 

I'm fairly certain mine is the B45.

 

Thru hull or transom is personal preference. 

Posted

I have two 1159s going in once spring gets here... I assume this is the one?

http://www.imarineusa.com/AirmarB60-20-FISO.aspx?gclid=CIrHtNSGosoCFQotHwodiAQBmA

 

Come on you two, sell me on the thru hull!

 

Call imarine or Airmar to make sure you get the correct one, Rob. Not sure what that description means-"Depth only".   Jacker probably knows but he wants you fish blind in the king of the oak series, LOL.

In all seriousness, inboards should only have thru hulls whether the flush mount or regular with a fairing block. I/Os and Outboards can use a transom mount, as the signal will be less disturbed by turbulence on the transom in those styles. I have thru hulls on the Viking and transom mount on the Northie. 

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