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Posted (edited)

This motor has very low hours and is in excellent condition, both inside and out. I bought a 1980 original Johnson 7.5hp owners manual and a NIB tilt pin after I bought the motor (the motor didn't come to me with a manual or tilt pin). I have less than 2 hours on the motor. Water pump works great, it has a tell-tale on the right rear. It's a 2 stroke twin cylinder and uses a fuel/oil mix of 50:1.

I hate to part with this motor but my boat has a 16" transom, which makes this motor sit too low under the boat. I had no luck in finding all the parts I would need to convert it to a short shaft, so it has to go. The motor is winterized and cylinders are treated with fogging oil.

The prop is in excellent shape as well. The motor model # is E8RLCSS.

I'm selling it for $500, or I would consider a trade for a short shaft 8-10hp motor in equally great condition. I prefer Evinrude or Johnson, but will consider any other reputable brand.

I hope the pictures load in the upright position...
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Edited by Todd in NY
Posted (edited)

I should add that I replaced the gear oil and drain/fill washers last month. I have 2 new spark plugs that are still in the box.

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted

I would have jumped on this had it been a 9.9 or a 15hp

Posted

I would have jumped on this had it been a 9.9 or a 15hp

I have an Evinrude 15 on my Sea Nymph for trolling and I love it. I use my row boat as my main boat on most other lakes, some of which require a motor of 10hp or less. This 7.5 runs like a champ. I hope I can find a replacement that runs as good as this one.

Posted

I have an Evinrude 15 on my Sea Nymph for trolling and I love it. I use my row boat as my main boat on most other lakes, some of which require a motor of 10hp or less. This 7.5 runs like a champ. I hope I can find a replacement that runs as good as this one.

Yea I like my Evinrude 15jp, it's what I use for my kicker but it's a 78 and it's been used hard over its lifetime. She's showing her age, not that she has failed me, doesn't foul plugs but starting to get hard finding parts. Good luck with your sale!!! pap,

Posted

Yea I like my Evinrude 15jp, it's what I use for my kicker but it's a 78 and it's been used hard over its lifetime. She's showing her age, not that she has failed me, doesn't foul plugs but starting to get hard finding parts. Good luck with your sale!!! pap,

Thanks Pap. I'm with you on the older motors and scarce parts. I have a nice 1973 Evinrude 25hp for my 16ft row boat and it's getting harder to find parts for it. I love that old 25. She's showing age on the outside but clean as a whistle under the cover.

Posted

I push my 23' proline with the Johnson version of this motor. It is close to full throttle going into the 6'-8' waves but sips fuel on those lighter chop days. It's actually an 8hp with 7.5 badges. Not that the .5hp makes that much of a difference.

Posted

I push my 23' proline with the Johnson version of this motor. It is close to full throttle going into the 6'-8' waves but sips fuel on those lighter chop days. It's actually an 8hp with 7.5 badges. Not that the .5hp makes that much of a difference.

I love this motor. I had 2 different marinas trying to find the parts to convert it to short shaft. My local Evinrude dealer told me that he could get the parts for $500 and I told him I will have to decline his offer. It's a perfect fit for my 16ft row boat. My neighbor has the 8hp version on his 14ft tin boat and said it sips the fuel too.

Posted

I love this motor. I had 2 different marinas trying to find the parts to convert it to short shaft. My local Evinrude dealer told me that he could get the parts for $500 and I told him I will have to decline his offer. It's a perfect fit for my 16ft row boat. My neighbor has the 8hp version on his 14ft tin boat and said it sips the fuel too.

If you're willing to trade I have the short shaft parts I would be willing to trade for the long shaft parts.

Posted (edited)

Or if you want to buy my short shaft parts that would work too.

All the parts in the lower and mid sections are the same. When you switch to short shaft you take out the gear case extension, water pick up extension, put in the shorter drive shaft and shift shaft.

Mine is a 1981 Johnson 7.5hp.

Edited by Chas0218
Posted

Why don't you just raise the transom a few inches?

I thought about it, but then my short shaft 25hp motor eouldn't fit. I use the 25 on lakes that don't have a 10hp limit.

Posted

If you're willing to trade I have the short shaft parts I would be willing to trade for the long shaft parts.

That's not a bad idea. I'll give Tileman Dan some time to measure his boat, as he is interested in the motor. We have a few more months of winter anyway, and when winter breaks I'll be using my Sea Nymph for browns on Lake O. I've only listed this motor on LOU, and I figured it wouldn't sell till spring time anyway. Thanks for the offers, I'll keep you in mind.

Posted

Rolmops, this is how my transom is shaped. If there was a way to make a temporary raised transom piece for using the 7.5, then take it off for using the 25, that would be great. Any ideas?

post-142578-0-64958100-1453165235_thumb.jpg

Posted

I would start out by making sure that this Evinrude is either a 20 inch or a 23 inch long shaft ( older Johnson /evinrudes would have a 23 inch measurement)and also confirming that the boat transom is 15 inches or something different.

Next I would make a slide over bracket that sits on top and around the transom. This would be made of a center piece that is either 5 or 8 inches high,the width of your current transom plate (12 inches?) and the thickness of your transom (1.5 inches?) On each side of this center piece I would put a metal plate (stainless?)of  12 inch width by either 15 or 18 inch height and 1/4 or 3/8 inch thickness..It should be bolted together with 4 or 6 fasteners and painted very well so no water can get into the wood center This bracket should slide over your transom and if properly made, sit nice and tight. To make sure that this will not shift around ,you can take another piece of this metal and screw it in the inside of your transom  towards the bottom.( so it is not in the way of your 25 horse when you use that) with an inside space of the thickness of your metal plate so the bottom end of your bracket can fit into it when you slide it over the transom. This bracket holder should be the same width as your bracket and ideally 7 or 8 inches high and secured well to the transom.

This is easily removable and strong. There are no nuts or bolts to deal with when installing or removing.

Posted (edited)

BUT,

It is very easy to turn this into a short shaft and you do not need a package to do so.

All you need is a shorter driveshaft,a shorter shift rod,a shorter bolt and a shorter water pipe.

The standard driveshaft  # 03234634    $259.99

The standard shift rod    # 0324620        $132

The standard bolt           #0316440          $9.99

Standard cooling waterpipe # just shorten yours by 5 inches.

 

These are the part numbers and new prices .Although I would never buy for that price,mostly because these parts are easily available on E-bay or Craigs list for vey much less. If somebody has an old 7.5 horse that does not work,you might even get it for free.

So my advice would be to do some scavenging and turn yours into a short shaft.

Your long shaft parts are valuable and not only should these parts pay for the short shaft pieces,they should get you $50 to a $100 dollars more than the standard pieces that you are looking for.

Bill Mayer in Webster at Mayers Marina probably has all the parts you need. his phone #is 585-323-1010

Good luck!

Edited by rolmops
Posted

Todd, I'm out on this deal. Thank you for your consideration. Good luck with your sale or modification which ever you decide.

Thanks, and enjoy your winter!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I would consider a trade for a short shaft as little as a 6hp motor.

 

I would also consider a trade for a working down speed/temp/depth system.

Posted (edited)

I would start out by making sure that this Evinrude is either a 20 inch or a 23 inch long shaft ( older Johnson /evinrudes would have a 23 inch measurement)and also confirming that the boat transom is 15 inches or something different.

Next I would make a slide over bracket that sits on top and around the transom. This would be made of a center piece that is either 5 or 8 inches high,the width of your current transom plate (12 inches?) and the thickness of your transom (1.5 inches?) On each side of this center piece I would put a metal plate (stainless?)of  12 inch width by either 15 or 18 inch height and 1/4 or 3/8 inch thickness..It should be bolted together with 4 or 6 fasteners and painted very well so no water can get into the wood center This bracket should slide over your transom and if properly made, sit nice and tight. To make sure that this will not shift around ,you can take another piece of this metal and screw it in the inside of your transom  towards the bottom.( so it is not in the way of your 25 horse when you use that) with an inside space of the thickness of your metal plate so the bottom end of your bracket can fit into it when you slide it over the transom. This bracket holder should be the same width as your bracket and ideally 7 or 8 inches high and secured well to the transom.

This is easily removable and strong. There are no nuts or bolts to deal with when installing or removing.

Thanks for the information on a modified bracket. It sounds easy enough. My main concern is getting it to fit tight enough so that the long shaft motor doesn't damage the bracket or the transom.

 

I also attach a transom mount trolling motor to the right side of the transom when bass fishing, so those handles are always in the way.

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the information on a modified bracket. It sounds easy enough. My main concern is getting it to fit tight enough so that the long shaft motor doesn't damage the bracket or the transom.

 

I also attach a transom mount trolling motor to the right side of the transom when bass fishing, so those handles are always in the way.

You can add a bracket holder on the outside as well and interconnect the bracket holders with fasteners right through the transom. That will allow you to make it less than perfect. It should make it even better and you can just leave the bracket on your engine and slide it in and out instead of first removing the engine and then the bracket.

Edited by rolmops

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