Leadcore set up question

[Legacy]

i'm curious about how well this works.when you're running just the first segment do you let the second segment all the out past the rod tip?does it drag in the water?it seems to me that if the second segment isn't past the rod tip and is rubbing against the rod tip in the wave action then the lead would eventually wear out. thanks

Never had an issue with break offs but the issue is the additional drag with the line dangling in the water.

It's works but I'll admit it's not the best setup.

Sent from my E6782 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[Legacy]

Tying a willis knot with braid, DJ. I didn't think you could do it regarding the limpness of braid vs. mono.

 

willis knot is the only way to go. Learn it and do it.

[TileMan Dan]

Do use the willis knot on my leadcores to mono. Just cant see a way of threading the braid into leadcore Was hoping someone had a special trick to do it.

[Legacy]

Do use the willis knot on my leadcores to mono. Just cant see a way of threading the braid into leadcore Was hoping someone had a special trick to do it.

 

patience....lol. I use Blood Run braid. It has a teflon coating that makes it a bit stiffer and easier to do it.

[TileMan Dan]

Patience??! Where can I purchase some of that ? 50 years here and still coming up short on that commodity!!! Lol. Thanks anyhow.

[Xxx]

Last year I got this brain fart to run the suffix leadcore, with that stuff they do not recommend the willis knot they want you to tie a double uni knot. Talk about patients first the lead is hard as hell to get out it just breaks off. After a few hrs. to no avail I just attached it with a #8 spro swivel. I know it's more links to fail but I was at a loss for other ways. It worked well at the end of the season last year. See what happens this year?

[TyeeTanic]

pap, are you saying you can't get the lead out?

 

You should cut the leadcore so the core and sheath are the same length. Then slide the sheath back a few inches, and just cut off the lead.  It shouldn't be that hard.

[Xxx]

pap, are you saying you can't get the lead out?

 

You should cut the leadcore so the core and sheath are the same length. Then slide the sheath back a few inches, and just cut off the lead.  It shouldn't be that hard.[/quote

Yea that's how all the other brands I used worked, but this crap you can't do that I tried for hrs. Its almost like the lead is stuck to the outer sheathing. The most I could get out is like 11/2-2" at the most, very time I went to push the outer casing down the lead broke off. I have used other leadcores and it's a cinch but not this, I think it's not pure lead it's to brittle it just snaps off. I worked for hrs. Just to get enough to make a Palomar knot which also uses a lot of line, I used a needle nose pliers, a little one at that and tied the leadcore first so I could use that knot the backer end I used a uni on the other end of the swivel. Not nice stuff to work with.

[TyeeTanic]

Pap, I use Suffix, and definitely don't have that problem. Sounds like you have a bad batch.  I would be giving suffix a call up and asking for a replacement. That leadcore sounds faulty.

[Xxx]

Pap, I use Suffix, and definitely don't have that problem. Sounds like you have a bad batch.  I would be giving suffix a call up and asking for a replacement. That leadcore sounds faulty.

Your probably right because the lead was in Jesus pieces, man I hate the thought of going through all that again.

[BAZOOKAJOE]

Buy another reel and make a 10 color and a 5 color. No cheap short-cuts in this sport.

[Missdemeanor]

Buy another reel and make a 10 color and a 5 color. No cheap short-cuts in this sport.

ðŸ‘

[TileMan Dan]

Joe. I agree with you, but ones got to admit it is a good idea if one can really make it work. I was thinking to myself that maybe I can carry a few less set ups on the boat. Great thing about this site is that some one comes up with a brainstorm to make you think about what you are currently doing.

[BP Swing]

So the lead core can not be in any type of planer board release or it will damage it?  So basically your lure is either going down 25 feet or 50 feet depending on how many colors you have since all the lead must be in the water and the release has to be hooked up to the backing. Right??? That means unless you are going straight back then there isnt much variability in the depths you can go behind the boards. That kind of sucks. 

[Frogger]

BP, that's correct the release will damage the lead, but it's no different than with copper rigs. Still a deadly rig.

[Sk8man]

Using carefully selected rubber bands (right strength=weak) works either with or without releases.

[BP Swing]

So what are you doing with the rubber bands then? Putting them on the release somehow?

[Sk8man]

Usually when I have used them I placed the small weak rubber bands with a a half hitch on the leadcore and the other (loop end) in a Black's release adjusted to be just enough to hold it in but enough so it doesn't falsely release or in a pinch pad release toward the outer edge with a shower curtain ring acting as the slide for the board line. If the band doesn't break (and release opens instead) it just comes right back onto the reel as I've use very small bands and they go through the level wind guide and rod eyes ok. I don't use them in real cold weather though as I have big hands and they can be hard to manipulate then

[BP Swing]

OK thanks I will have to give it a try. Would give me alot more options if I didnt have to put all the leadcore in the water.

[Sk8man]

Best used that way in shallow water setups or where you don't get down as deep because there is more drag so you don't get down as deep as with a straight setup with backing....can use snap weights ahead of the leader though to go deeper but really have to estimate where you are running.

[Xxx]

Best used that way in shallow water setups or where you don't get down as deep because there is more drag so you don't get down as deep as with a straight setup with backing....can use snap weights ahead of the leader though to go deeper but really have to estimate where you are running.

Les are you using the small bands that the kids use in those loom kits to make bracelets and stuff they come in neon colors?? Thanks pap.

[justtracytrolling]

The rubber bands work on fine braid that is too thin or hard pulling lures off boards. Segmented cores works well for warm water fishing where exact depth is important.

[Sk8man]

Yes Pap. They are often in the hair products sections of stores or at Michael's etc. There area few different ones of varying strengths so need to test the breaking strength of them. Thye can be made weaker as with any rubber bands by the way just leaving them out in the sun for a few hours

[Xxx]

Thanks Les, I messed around with the girls loom rubber bands and they broke at 6#'s of pull on a trigger scale which I thought would be right. If a blacks release is set at 2-3lbs so that should be enough to pull a top 10ft of the water column lure or enough to pull a worm harness and also enough to pull a shallow diver on leadcore at any depth which the core settles in at. The rubber bands need to hold the lure while in tow yet enough backbone to be able to make a good hook set. Plus these are easy to see neon colors. PAP.

Edited February 7, 2016 by pap

[Egoody]

Well here goes.....

If i run a Bay rat that is supposed to run approx 7 ft,and then run 2 colors of lead core that runs about 10 ft., is the Bay rat going to be running approx17 ft ? The lead core is 27# and i'm running approx 12-15 ft of  12 lb flouro leader.

 

Or

 

Should i just run the bay rat on mono with the 12 lb leader to get the 7 ft depth in shallow  water i'm looking for?

 

I'm sure the answer is simple but i'm just am looking for your experiences

 

Thanks And Boat Safe

Egoody