Copper Lengths Answer...simplified? YES!

[Sk8man]

There are surely a lot of ways to do this and Mark certainly has investigated further into it than most of the rest of us. I wasn't previously aware of that method so thanks for sharing it.  I have been using the #8 SPRO power swivel (and others previously) for years with the haywire knot but i don't tighten the loop part itself hard to the swivel I let it form a little loop so that there is little stress on it because it can slide back and forth a bit and I have never had any problems whatsoever (and no visible wear on the copper loop itself) with it and the swivel comes through the eye of the rod and the level wind mechanism fine on my reels. No matter which method you choose  or any knot for that matter you need  to have confidence in it and that may involve experimenting with different setups.

Edited March 1, 2016 by Sk8man

[skipper19]

I use the hay wire when using spro swivel with heat shrink to top off. And would add the heat shrink is not because I think it will fail but to help keep end from fraying and a smoother transition reeling in going thru the eyes and the reel.

Yes! Good! A very good way also!

[wishinfishin]

I call Mark the milk and cookie guy, meaning, give him a problem to figure out , give him a box of cookies and glass of milk, and when the cookies and milk are finished ,you'll have your answer! A good answer.

[skipper19]

There are surely a lot of ways to do this and Mark certainly has investigated further into it than most of the rest of us. I wasn't previously aware of that method so thanks for sharing it. I have been using the #8 SPRO power swivel (and others previously) for years with the haywire knot but i don't tighten the loop part itself hard to the swivel I let it form a little loop so that there is little stress on it because it can slide back and forth a bit and I have never had any problems whatsoever (and no visible wear on the copper loop itself) with it and the swivel comes through the eye of the rod and the level wind mechanism fine on my reels. No matter which method you choose or any knot for that matter you need to have confidence in it and that may involve experimenting with different setups.

Yup! Most everyone uses the little spro, and it has proven itself over time. I learned the hard way that braid to copper is no good. I even thought I could improve on it to work better by doubling the braid albright, but it didn't matter, the copper got pinched more and more on each pull until the copper broke above the knot at 20 or less lb pull on 32 or 45 lb copper. That is the time bomb!

It got worse when the knot was wetted. Darn fish live in the water!

The video is good. I have played with variables and got to really good setup that is so trustworthy I don't even check the transition any more.

What's even nicer is when you loose 200 feet off your 300 on a mid section break, you can easily splice back a new 200 foot section, AND, have a new spot to attach a release without on the copper itself!

[skipper19]

I call Mark the milk and cookie guy, meaning, give him a problem to figure out , give him a box of cookies and glass of milk, and when the cookies and milk are finished ,you'll have your answer! A good answer.

:lol:

Used to be Shock Top and chips, and a brisket on the smoker..15 hours.

I'd run out of beer and chips get bored and do fact finding missions.

Now it's water and celery.....stupid diet!. .I got 300 calories left..ice cream or beer...:unsure:...both! Shock top has 224 calories in one 12 oz, stupid diet. ..fact finding grrr!

[wishinfishin]

What you just said about splicing in another 200 feet, I guess the method your laying out could be a good way to segment copper

say every 50-100 feet  and have a good way of attaching to the boards to that spot,versus doing it with other methods that would require bigger knots(weak spots, and more drag)at the segmented piece. Always wanted a way to do that well to utilize some longer copper but only deploying what you need when the bite is shallower than where the long copper would be.

Bloodruntackle had a method for using braid as backing to copper and still using inline boards,which utilizes a stainless steel pin instead of the stock plastic . Which is , deploy copper,put the braid in the pin and spin it a couple times before you stick it in the pinch pad, which stops the board from sliding down to your knot and grooving the release pad, I tried this last year and it worked for me.

[skipper19]

What you just said about splicing in another 200 feet, I guess the method your laying out could be a good way to segment copper

say every 50-100 feet and have a good way of attaching to the boards to that spot,versus doing it with other methods that would require bigger knots(weak spots, and more drag)at the segmented piece. Always wanted a way to do that well to utilize some longer copper but only deploying what you need when the bite is shallower than where the long copper would be.

Bloodruntackle had a method for using braid as backing to copper and still using inline boards,which utilizes a stainless steel pin instead of the stock plastic . Which is , deploy copper,put the braid in the pin and spin it a couple times before you stick it in the pinch pad, which stops the board from sliding down to your knot and grooving the release pad, I tried this last year and it worked for me.

Yes it is a good way to segment the copper if you have the time and patience for the process. You could segment any length you want and have no knots and a way to use the pinch pads without hurting the copper at all. I also have used dental floss attached to the copper with a D loop like a bowstring would have. I use that for my outrigger releases and it does not hurt the copper at all because it puts a nice gentle bend at the release and two points of pulling.

[Sk8man]

A couple of serious questions Mark:

 

a. Does the D stand for dental in the "D loop"?

b. Can you still get the floss to go through your teeth afterward? 

[skipper19]

A couple of serious questions Mark:

a. Does the D stand for dental in the "D loop"?

b. Can you still get the floss to go through your teeth afterward?

A...yes, hook it to your bad tooth and throw the lure in the water, wait for a 30 lb king to grab and run. Better than the dentist! More fun too!

B Depends on if your from Lyntucky. Lots of folks missing teeth from doing A!

[Sk8man]

:lol:  Both good answers thanks

[TileMan Dan]

I use a spro swivel on both ends of copper which I use crimps on. No problems thru eyes or levelwind. I do keep an eye on them and recrimp if copper starts to show signs of fray.

[skipper19]

That is a very good and popular termination on the ends of the copper. Crimps done carefully can be very trusty, and doubling them can be a safety feature in case of one that might let go. A lot of reels take the extra bulk of crimps or haywire into consideration now. Most of the high capacity reels are designed for copper with large line guides, knowing that it will most likely be used in a copper wire setup. That's a good thing!

[TileMan Dan]

I believe the success you have using crimps is having a good quality set of crimping pliers to compress the crimp and not just flatten it out.