Jump to content

Couple Questions.....

njg0621

njg0621
in Open Lake Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

njg0621

njg0621

Posted
Posted

So I have two completely different questions I want to ask.   The first is that I am buying a new Minnkota Terrova in the spring to put on my boat and I am not sure how to remove the front panel for the install.  Attached are some pics so you can see what I am dealing with.  What do I actually need to do to get access to underneath the front? Do I need to pop all the rivets on top and remove the metal? There are no screws where the padding is and I feel like even if I take off the screws on the floor below the padding it has no where to go..... Any advice would be great!

 

 

 

My second question is this boat came with a set of Cannon Mag 10's.  All the wires that come from the battery to the downrigger have cracked and are no longer good. The wires on the actual downrigger are fine though. The kits to replace these are $55 a piece and one rigger needs a new motor which is $150.  How much are these worth? Is it worth putting $200 into one of them? Also does anyone have the a good set of the old style wires that go from the battery to the downrigger? That would save me from having to replace everything.  Thanks again for any advice!

post-154852-0-16500600-1455890234_thumb.jpg

post-154852-0-86326400-1455890242_thumb.jpg

post-154852-0-97697900-1455890251_thumb.jpg

post-154852-0-46582300-1455890259_thumb.jpg

post-154852-0-75188600-1455890321_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sk8man

Sk8man

Posted
Posted

Having replaced the old type wires twice on mine over the years I can tell you that the new set of wires is MUCH improved and is the way to go if you decide to keep the riggers but the motor situation is a different matter. As Lucas mentioned those downriggers are often found in the classifieds here and usually for a reasonable price. Maybe try to get one in good condition and either go with it or use the motor in it and keep the rest of one or the other for spare parts. As far as the old wiring it deteriorates badly in the UV light and I had one that was bare wire in spots prior to replacement with the new ones.....not worth taking a chance on in my view and I was glad I bit the bullet for the new ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had the same issue with the wires, and wasn't going to pay the price for new wires, as the first chance to upgrade my riggers I will, so I made my own, I used 10 gauge wire and put a circuit breaker in the positive wire near the batteries and I used Minn Kota plugs instead of the OE ones they only go in one way so to get power to the forward and reverse was easy and you can't reverse the plug so it's the right way, when you wire it. I got the plugs at Cabelas out of the bargain barn, at $15 a piece. The 2 Riggs cost less than 1 Cannon wire. As far as your trolling motor goes, your going to mount that on the top front right? When you run your wires for power isn't there a place to put a battery up front? You don't usually run the wires to your back batteries, doesn't those front pads come off with snaps? Just trying to get an idea of your setup for now, and other guys will chime in here with helpful info also. The cord was a big thing not to long ago. See I'm late already LOL

Edited by pap
Link to comment
Share on other sites
njg0621

njg0621

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The riggers are worth it imo and if the plugs on the riggers are good just get cannon flush mount power ports for 15 bucks each.

Dont know how to get under the bow to bolt your terrova on, but somebody here must have a boat like yours...

 

Yeah the plugs are fine on both sides.  Only the cables coming from the battery are cracked.  So I can just buy the flush mount power ports and run regular electrical cable behind them? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ERABBIT

ERABBIT

Posted
Posted

 

 

So I have two completely different questions I want to ask.   The first is that I am buying a new Minnkota Terrova in the spring to put on my boat and I am not sure how to remove the front panel for the install. 

Go with the I-pilot , mine works great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
njg0621

njg0621

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had the same issue with the wires, and wasn't going to pay the price for new wires, as the first chance to upgrade my riggers I will, so I made my own, I used 10 gauge wire and put a circuit breaker in the positive wire near the batteries and I used Minn Kota plugs instead of the OE ones they only go in one way so to get power to the forward and reverse was easy and you can't reverse the plug so it's the right way, when you wire it. I got the plugs at Cabelas out of the bargain barn, at $15 a piece. The 2 Riggs cost less than 1 Cannon wire. As far as your trolling motor goes, your going to mount that on the top front right? When you run your wires for power isn't there a place to put a battery up front? You don't usually run the wires to your back batteries, doesn't those front pads come off with snaps? Just trying to get an idea of your setup for now, and other guys will chime in here with helpful info also. The cord was a big thing not to long ago. See I'm late already LOL

 

No place for a battery up front.  There are two compartments for batteries in the center of the boat near the consoles.  The cables run from these compartments to a port in the front of the boat to hook up your trolling motor.  The port is in the left hand side of the pic below.  My problem isn't the cables it is mounting the plate that the trolling motor will connect to.  The cushions don't snap off either...

post-154852-0-59902500-1455897346_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
muskiedreams

muskiedreams

Posted
Posted (edited)

For the bow mount, if the panel that the power connector is mounted to is in the way, you will have to remove it. Then you will have to drill the holes from the top and install bolts from top and reach under to install washers and nuts. Stainless hardware and nylock nuts are appropriate. If the bow panel is not sturdy enough, you may have to install something under the panel to reinforce it, such as an aluminum (1/4 inch) or plywood plate. But since you have a connector for a bow mount and battery compartments for it, the bow is probably already sturdy enough.

 

For the wire to the downriggers, use marine grade wire (it is more resistant to UV, moisture, corrosion and vibration than automotive wire) and make sure the wire gauge is heavy enough to carry the current demand. Keep in mind that the longer the wires, the heavier the gauge must be. Google "12 volt system wire gauge chart". You must have circuit breakers of the proper rating close to the battery.

Edited by muskiedreams
Link to comment
Share on other sites
njg0621

njg0621

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For the bow mount, if the panel that the power connector is mounted to is in the way, you will have to remove it. Then you will have to drill the holes from the top and install bolts from top and reach under to install washers and nuts. Stainless hardware and nylock nuts are appropriate. If the bow panel is not sturdy enough, you may have to install something under the panel to reinforce it, such as an aluminum (1/4 inch) or plywood plate. But since you have a connector for a bow mount and battery compartments for it, the bow is probably already sturdy enough.

 

Understood but I am just not sure how I am going to get into the front of the bow to install the bolts... The cushion doesn't come off and the carpet\wood looks to be riveted on the top.  I didn't want to just start taking all the screws out of the carpet becasue once they are out it is a PIA to find the holes again to put them back in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted

Ok I've been doing a little research, I used to have a auto electric rebuild shop (starters and alternators) I have repaired a few of these motors, the most common problem I came across is the brushes get stuck in the holders from water or condensation getting in, if you remove the motor and can find a local starter shop they might be willing to go inside and see what the problem is, or if you feel this is something you can do, if I remember right the motor slides out rather easy, OH after you remove the screws that hold it the case, mark the case with a line from top to bottom with something that won't rub off I used a screw driver and scribed a line in, remove the through bolts on the motor under the cap that the bolts tighten against is the brushes, gently pull up the brush holder to see if the brushes are moving, see if there is any slack in the copper wire that runs to the brushes if not its out of brushes, a good shop should be able to retrofit a brush from a starter, I know I have already. Very rarely is the armature bad and the ones I messed with were magnetic fields, so if the magnets are tight, make sure where the ground wire and the positive wire attach to the motor aren't corroded. For the access those white buttons should pop off and there should be a screw of some sort to remove so you can get at the paraphernalia that holds it on. Hope this helps. There is a place called mikesreelrepair,com if your motors oe # is3391000 he has one for sale $65.00.

Actually these motors are nothing more of a smaller version of a tarper motor for loads that need to be covered while going down the highway, tri axles use them. I will be looking into this some more for myself!! Good luck PAP?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sean Youngblood

Sean Youngblood

Posted
Posted

The button in the middle of the cushion should be a snap. Gently pry it off with a flat screwdriver.There will be a snap receiver behind it that will be screwed into the bow.Remove that screw.I would imagine there are some fasteners were the two cushions meet in the corners also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
muskiedreams

muskiedreams

Posted
Posted

Understood but I am just not sure how I am going to get into the front of the bow to install the bolts... The cushion doesn't come off and the carpet\wood looks to be riveted on the top.  I didn't want to just start taking all the screws out of the carpet becasue once they are out it is a PIA to find the holes again to put them back in.

You will have to find a way. I don't know what is involved in removing the padded panel and if there is metal behind it, that won't do you any good. If the panel below, that the connector is in, is attached with pop rivets, you might have to drill them out and then replace them when you are done. You should use aluminum pop rivets. It is best if the pin is aluminum also. Herb's Fastener Supply or Hewes Fasteners in Rochester should have them so you can get the right diameter and length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ERABBIT

ERABBIT

Posted
Posted

The circuit boards go on those riggers too. I replaced a couple before. Fish307 or FishUSA used sell the board and its an easy replacement. Just a thought.

circuit board is for auto-stop..... if this board is gone your motor will not work..... new board is around $75.00 last one I got was thru Screwie Louies ...... If you don't want auto and board is gone you will need a different switch .... 3 prong ( i think would have to look for sure ) instead of a 4 prong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think it might be 2 prong for non-autostop and three if you have it if my memory serves me correctly (taking your chances there :lol: )

You need a 3 prong plug, 2 for power forward and reverse and they both share the same ground.

Edited by pap
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted

I guess I stand corrected :lol:  so much for the memory I guess :)

That's OK Les I'm still in the Stone Age with my equipment, must people punted the stuff I have overboard years ago!! lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RSF

RSF

Posted
Posted

Hi all, living in ethanol Country with few Sunoco's around, I found out some Shell stations have it. What I had been doing mainly due to old gas gooing the system internally is, when winterizing, I switch to a small 1 gallon gas tank w/75% stabilizer, 10 20/40 oil (about a cup at pick-up line) and run it through until the engine stops.

 

Effectively sealing the fuel flow/pump routing.

It has worked for me for about thirty years..back then I ran wd40 (all that was available then) as after one winter of leaving the fuel trac dry, well it didn't as fuel deposits remained in the pump and was gooing the diaphragm pump inlet/outlet valves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...