Electric Conversion of Cannon Uni troll 10

[antney1]

I have a pair of Uni Troll 10's that I was considering converting over to electric. I quick search of the net didn't come up with any conversion kits. Has anyone done this, if so, where was the kit purchased and how difficult was it ?

 

Thanks !

[holy mackerel]

Plenty of used electrics around. Sell yours, buy electrics.

[King Slammin]

I think I saw a video once where somebody used a cordless drill on the handle to bring up the weights. Just a thought.

[JimB]

Here's the video.

 

 

Not sure how many times the battery will winch up my 12 pounders however.    That and the added clutter of the drill and spare batteries in my 18' Tracker....ugh.

 

I have an older set of unitroll 6's, and I SWEAR I saw a pdf somewhere on installing an electric conversion kit.   However, when I emailed cannon, they said 

no such conversion kit exists....at least for my ancient 6's.   

 

After a few years of hand cranking...I now look almost every day to see what electrics may be up for sale here....

[King Slammin]

Cannon mag 5 st brand new for $385 each shipped. Pm me if you are interested.

[Buckmaster7600]

If I was going to do the drill thing I would get a 12volt and wire it direct to the boat batteries. If you hard wired ports on each side it could be a short cord and not in the way. I have a 12 volt drill I have used for my auger for 12 or 13 years hooked to a lawn mower battery that thing will drill a lot of 8" holes on a charge.

[RSF]

Hi all,

Yes I converted two lake troll models. The latest a couple of years ago. Not a hard thing to do with the lake troll model, I'm not sure of Mag models.

[TileMan Dan]

Looks like your a bit of an engineer RSF. Interesting.

[henrybud]

In the old days chrysler windshield wiper motors replaced proos electric riggers perfectly

[RSF]

Hi TileMan Dan and all,

 

Just didn't want to pay the 500-1000 for the electric. Made the one in the picture for about 80. Found the motor new for 25. Plus mine has the manual handle attached and the motor drive quick-disconnect during those times when the battery gets low. It's all set for nightfishing with a high intensity led on the head which is directed to which-ever angle the heads at to see the weight and read the depth at night. Completely reversible to original.

[SylvanTroller]

RSF. Do you have a parts list and schematic you'd be willing to share?

[RSF]

Sure I can help you through it. Never thought to write a schematic. 

 

One: buy the heavier-duty 12 volt geared motor w/reversible and if possible "two speed" new windshield washer motor from: "Fright Props" USA. Cheapest and the motors are new.

Two: Off ebay or where ever, one Double Throw, Double Poll 20 AMP 120V,AC-30 AMP DC-toggle switch "ON (OFF) ON", meaning momentary on.

 

I'll walk you through it..but be aware..not for anyone who cannot solder electrical connections...

[RSF]

What's your downrigger (Manufacturer/Model), you wish to turn into Electric, Sylvan?

[SylvanTroller]

I have two canon unitrolls. Not so much that I want to turn mine into electrics but looking at yours, the dollar figure presented, and my constant desire for cool projects. Figured I'd gather a little Intel and build them out as time and money permits. I appreciate you design and ambition!

[SylvanTroller]

Are you using worm gears?

[RSF]

I have two canon unitrolls. Not so much that I want to turn mine into electrics but looking at yours, the dollar figure presented, and my constant desire for cool projects. Figured I'd gather a little Intel and build them out as time and money permits. I appreciate you design and ambition!

 

The only part original in the cranking area is basically the handle. All other parts, including the through shaft is changed, reason: to make the electrified unit completely reversible back to original.

I used a length of "Heavy Wall" 1/2" OD copper tubing for the new shaft -  non corrosion in fresh or salt water use. I made a schematic of all in my old computer, ufortuantely I had problems with that old dell and cannot access the hours of work making the schematically both electronically and mechanically. But I can walk you through the basics my examining my Cannon-modified version.

 

No matter what, the alignment from motor output shaft to the through shaft must be pretty much perfect to prevent binding. When removing the original shaft, washers, friction disks, etc..place them directly on a string so as NOT to lose their order of original assembly. Youll have to remove all steel downrigger line and remove the pin running through the spindle reel-shaft-spindle reel.

 

I found it easiest using a can on a stick with a homemade reel to remove line (no kinks). The trick is is how to make a perfect alignment which I found a away to do once I had the new motor with mounting legs using a piece of Styrofoam plate to tap-mark the three leg holes and centre motor drive. to trace over to the cannon frame. The motor threads are 6mm but lately I see you can buy an adapter for the output shaft 6mm-5/16 inches, however with that coupling, it may be too long as you need space between the outshaft (motor) to main copper through shaft? Electrical..I would suggest some soldering knowledge as I do not trust just crimped switch and wires connection.

[RSF]

Are you using worm gears?

Hi, yes, in that the motor is effectively a windshield washer motor (front) and is a worm gear.

[SylvanTroller]

Thanks for the explanation. I agree with soldering is king.