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Posted (edited)

I have to remove my outboard (90hp Merc) to replace my steering cable. Do I have to put anything like silicone or something like that in the 4 bolt holes when I put the motor back on the boat?

Oh yea, it's an aluminum boat.

Thanks!!

Edited by DoubleG
Posted

Any hardware mounted through or into the transom or hull must be sealed. Use 3M 5200 marine sealant. Make sure you give it time to cure. Low temperature will slow it way down.

Posted

You are going to want to do that to prevent water from leaking into the boat and if you have a wood transom to protect from rot.

Posted

Any hardware mounted through or into the transom or hull must be sealed. Use 3M 5200 marine sealant. Make sure you give it time to cure. Low temperature will slow it way down.

x2.... 3M 5200 it the for sure way to go! 

Posted

I prefer 4200 incase I need to take it back off. It is a little less permanent but will hold up for decades. I had 5200 pull part of my gel coat off.

Posted

​I also will be pulling my motor off to install hydraulic steering . just cut out all the mechanical cables. Was thinking it might be tough getting motor off because they use 5200 when installing .Is there a solvent that might soften it ? Any marine mechanics have any Tips . Will use 4200 when  reinstalling motor .

Posted

Awesome guys, thanks!!!  I was thinking about 5200 but I'm going to use 4200.  Thanks again!

Posted (edited)

​I also will be pulling my motor off to install hydraulic steering . just cut out all the mechanical cables. Was thinking it might be tough getting motor off because they use 5200 when installing .Is there a solvent that might soften it ? Any marine mechanics have any Tips . Will use 4200 when  reinstalling motor .

What type of steering? Most don't need the motor pulled to get to it.

 

Razor blade is about the only thing I have found that will get rid of 4200 or 5200, just go slow.

Edited by Chas0218
Posted (edited)

There is a product that breaks 5200 down, can't remember the name. Go with the 4200 above the waterline

Edited by lost a lure
Posted

 

What type of steering? Most don't need the motor pulled to get to it.

It's just a regular Teleflex cable but there isn't enough room between the motor and the wall where the cable comes out and there's also a slight angle.  They had to have put the old one in while they were installing the motor.  I can't see any other way to do it.

Posted

I've done it on two boats and got lucky both times in that I could  pull the old cable towards the helm without needing to remove the engine. Pulling a rope along with it aids in routing the new cable back to the engine, much like an electrician would pull wires.

 

If you are just replacing mechanical push/pull type, be very careful on your measurements. Too short won't work, and it is hard to position excess slack if you are too long!

Posted

Here's a couple of pictures to show you what I mean.  Sorry for the bad pics, it's all I have on my phone.

 

image1_zpsbvca2sot.jpg

image1c_zpst2bat12y.jpg

image2_zpsxsxwyct3.jpg

Posted

Sure looks ominous! Do you have a rack and pinion type at the helm? If so, there has to be enough room in the arch of the channel in the rear corner of the boat  to pull things forward. On mine, I cranked it all the way counter clockwise to retract the steering rod as far as possible back into the cable housing. Then I disconnected the steering arm to the motor and the connecting nut to the tilt tube. Then I disconnected the rack from the helm after being sure nothing was left cable tied to it,  Here's where a second set of hands comes in. One guy pulling the rack end toward the front while the other helps things get going through the rear grommet. Don't forget the rope to guide the new one back.

 

All well and good if there is a straight shot from the tilt tube to the opening. Just re-looked at your photos and it sure looks like there is enough of an offset to bind it up. Worth a shot though because you will have to pull the old one out anyway.

Posted

I ended up cutting mine at the motor because it was stuck. Removed existing from the helm and taped the new cable on to the old one. Pulled it through and fed it into the tilt tube. Mine had a poly rope tied at each end off for pulling. 

Posted

It's just a regular Teleflex cable but there isn't enough room between the motor and the wall where the cable comes out and there's also a slight angle.  They had to have put the old one in while they were installing the motor.  I can't see any other way to do it.

I had the same situation recently, and after moving the motor to replace the cable, the cable wore out again in 3 years. Decided this time to move the cable to where it came out straight to the motor, no angles, reducing the bind point.

Do you know what caused your cable to fail?

Posted

 

Do you know what caused your cable to fail?

No I'm not sure but I think the cable that I'm replacing is about 15yrs old.  I've only had the boat 6 yrs but I think they put the cable in when they put the motor on.

Posted

Debond breaks down the 5200 making it easier to remove

 

Thanks that's what I will have to get . I have the same Steering  as DoubleG  which I am replacing with Sea Star hydraulic Steering . the new support rod has to slid into the tilt tube . the transom cut out is not wide enough  so I will have to pull the motor to slid it in.Will try the Debond with some piano wire.

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