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Posted

post-160767-0-35874300-1469579073_thumb.jpgHi Everyone,

I have a new Starweld that I'm still outfitting and could use some help. I'm hopping someone else out there has solved this problem already.

I have Berts rails on the deck just inside and below the gunwale. The rails are great for rod holders but I just bought Berts swivel mounts and used them to mount Cannon Downriggers. Here's the problem. When you put any weight on the boom of the downrigger the whole deck where the rails are mounted moves. And it moves way too much to be normal flexibility. I've attached a pic to give an idea of where its mounted now.

 

Does anyone else out there have a newer Starweld with downriggers mounted? If so, where and how did you mount them? 

 

Any thoughts are welcome and appreciated. 

Thanks

Frank S.

Posted

You probably have to reinforce the area under the track. It's probably only 1/2" plywood. Hopefully you can put an aluminum plate or another layer of plywood from underneath..

Posted

Well your in luck.  I have the same boat and put rails on the back.  Mine are Cisco but same thing really.   My rails are way shorter than yours....24" I think.  I also have them mounted further back.  Far enough back that most or all of the rail is behind where the side compartment door is.  Looking at your picture and your rail setup....thats your problem I think.  You have long rails and the downrigger is in the area where the compartment door is.  that makes the whole thing less stable right there.   Attached is a pick I had on my phone.  You can see the downriggers and a rod holder just  behind the downriggers.  I've run them with 12 and 16# balls like you see there with no flex issues. I also have large fender washers underneath. I'll bet you can still have the long rails.  Just put the riggers toward the very back and not up the side.

 

I hope this helps.  

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Posted

Fat Trout - I think you just solved my problem. In comparing mine to your I can see what you mean about being too far forward. I either need to move my rails back or add small ones further back where there is more support. 

Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this. 

Posted

I have the 20Pro and yes it's a pain in the butt, I had to put a backing plate under the tracks to help support the rigger mounts and the rod holders. Now I went with the 60" track and the dealer said being that long I wouldn't need the backing plate but I did anyhow as a precaution. As you can see in my pic of my setup I separated my riggers from my rod holders just because I wanted them in the back corners. Everything has worked great and I love the boat. Just fished the Sandy Creek shootout and was out on Saturday in 4-6 footers side by side with all the big boys so they can hold there own.

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Posted

It is a nice rig. Still have to look into those high seas trees.

Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

eBay is the best place to get them. I love them especially when I am running boards
Posted

Thanks Sea-IV

Where you have yours is where I'm going to move mine, just about where the transom wall meets the gunwale.

 

It sounds like you mounted your rails yourself. Do you happen to know if there are any wires right under the side deck that far back? I can't see up in there and would hate to drill into the anchor light wires which should be the only wires anywhere near there.  

 

Thanks again

Posted

Thanks Sea-IV

Where you have yours is where I'm going to move mine, just about where the transom wall meets the gunwale.

 

It sounds like you mounted your rails yourself. Do you happen to know if there are any wires right under the side deck that far back? I can't see up in there and would hate to drill into the anchor light wires which should be the only wires anywhere near there.  

 

Thanks again

The end of the side compartment can be pulled out.  Behind that are a couple of pieces of styrofoam that can be pulled out.  At that point you can reach back.  You'll probably need someone to help from the top while your reaching in.  There are wires on the driver side but you can reach in and keep them out of the way.  Its a **** I'm not gonna lie....but its doable.  Just be prepared for some cursing.

Posted

Thanks guys

I really appreciate your help.  

Posted

If yours are built like the starcraft in the back , splashwell side has screws that I took out when I put in a extra bilge pump over the winter. Good access to that area , just need to re-seal it when you put it back

Posted

Howdy all,

Im shopping for a boat, ideally a Starcraft Fishmaster 196. During this process I noticed the Starweld brand. Other than being welded rather than riveted, is there much of a difference between the two brands in terms of quality, fit & finish ?

Thanks- Rusty

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Howdy all,

Im shopping for a boat, ideally a Starcraft Fishmaster 196. During this process I noticed the Starweld brand. Other than being welded rather than riveted, is there much of a difference between the two brands in terms of quality, fit & finish ?

Thanks- Rusty

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There is a difference per say fishing boat versus some luxury items. I am a fisherman so not having carpet and pads for front deck make it nice and honestly they designed by fisherman so it was a win win for me as for cost effectiveness as well. I was looking at either $50,000+ for a Fishmaster or this which I stole. They handle well in rougher conditions and plenty of room for what I do and if the kids go they have a blast as well.
Posted

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A lot different boat but I had the same thing happening to mine and I got the transom bar across the back. It works great! 2 pins and it's off. If I was to do it again I would have it slide into the tracks, but it's rock solid and works great as it is.

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