Anyone use 6.1 ratio reels?

[vetting]

I've been slowly adding more and more 6.1 ratio reels to the mix.  Right now I have 6 of them and for my 7, 8, 9, 10 leadcore and for some riggers.  Its still not the greatest when something hits the 10 color, but its way better than before.  Just wanted to see if you anyone else has any comments/thoughts on using higher ratio reels.  

 

The reel are a mix of Daiwa Sealine SLW60H and SLW60H as wells as Seagate SLW60H.

[Silver Fox]

Their should only be 1 comment, their awesome and you'll never go back to a 4:1. All of my reels are Saltists and Clarions.

Lake Ontario salmon fishing charters

[John E Powell]

Like most everything in life, it's a balance. Gear ratio in and of itself is meaningless until you pair it with a spool filled with line. The reel's spool is a simple mechanism, a pulley (that changes in diameter as line is let out from the reel). The gear ratio and spool diameter together determine your retrieve ratio (when the reel is full to capacity). Retrieve ratio is a meaningful number that allows you to compare the performance of one reel vs another. Gear ratio is a sexier term than retrieve ratio, and it allows more opportunities for "creative advertising" so it often gets reported on the reel box and often as one of the reel's first few stats. Retrieve ratio is often buried deep somewhere on the reel parts list or in the owner's manual.

Another factor in the equation is the distance between the crank stem and handle. This distance forms a lever, another simple mechanism which is part of the equation.

Ultimately, you turn the crank and line comes in. But keep in mind you're turning a lever, which turns gears, which turns a pulley with a variable diameter. As line is let out and the spool diameter decreases, the retrieve ratio also decreases. And because of variables is spool design, spool shape and size is also a variable from reel to reel.

So with all these variables, is there something meaningful to fisherman that we can use that is universally true from reel to reel? Yes. When comparing retrieve ratios of reels this will always be true. Reels with higher retrieve ratios will rewind line easier under light loads, and reels with lower retrieve ratios will rewind line easier under heavy loads. If you've ever cranked up a boat on a trailer with a manual winch, you should understand this concept well - a winch has an extremely low line retrieval rate with lots of torque to pull a boat up on a trailer.

So here's my take on it:

Because torque goes down as retrieve ratio goes up, somewhere in the middle is the sweet spot where the reel works well for bringing in lines under light loads (for lure changes, weed checks, clearing lines, etc.) and for landing large fish.

Reels with high retrieve ratios will be better suited for frequent lure changing where you are bringing the line in under light load, because they have the advantage at speed at the cost of torque.

Reels with lower retrieve ratios will land fish easier but require more time to operate because they have the advantage of higher torque at the expense of speed.

So, before buying new reels, find the retrieve ratio of your old reels first. Then use that as a baseline to find the reel that has the retrieve ratio that makes sense to you with the physical qualities that suit your needs.

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Edited December 4, 2016 by John E Powell

[GAMBLER]

Their should only be 1 comment, their awesome and you'll never go back to a 4:1.

+1

[Yankee Troller]

I like the high ratio on anything up to about a 300 copper. After that you notice the loss of power in the reel. For example I have the 6.3:1 on a 300 copper and it's manageable. However I have Daiwa Seagates for my 400 & 500 coppers and I am going back to my Tekotas. The loss of power going to the high gear ratio is horrible.

[moonfish]

John Powell forgot to mention that heavy loads are pulled in with the rod and the line is taken in on a "reel down". A higher speed reel is helpful in this. But keep in mind that customers may not be as proficient as we are in this technique. Also, higher retrieve rates means getting lines out of the water quicker if necessary. Mechanics are mechanics, human techniques make things work.

[vetting]

I rarely ever pump a rod on a large fish.  What I usually do is walk backwards 10 feet with the rod tip up and then reel as I walk back forward.  Wash, rinse, repeat until the fish is in the boat.  With a faster retrieve ratio I can walk forward faster and get more line in on the fish.  

[Sk8man]

Not all reels have the option but power handles also can help a lot in the retrieval rate and increased leverage. I have them on every reel I have whether 4,5 or 6 to 1 gear ratio that they are made for.

Edited December 10, 2016 by Sk8man

[moonfish]

Thanks VETTING. Pumping a rod and applying adequate pressure is 2 different things. On a good day of fishing how many miles do you walk in your boat ? Hey, do what you want.

[Tyee II]

High speed retrieve is great for changing baits quickly on your long coppers and cores. Also comes in handy when a frisky Steelhead charges the boat! If you do use your rod to budge a big fish closer to the boat, high speed helps prevent slack line as you're reeling back down to begin your next "pump".

I was taught the walk back technique that Vetting uses by a great fisherman years ago for those big slob Lakers that don't seem to budge with a rod pump alone. It works great and I call it the "Richie Shuffle".

[Rippin'Line]

We're the clarions discontinued? They're not on the website anymore or I'm just blind.

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[TrophySeeker]

Not all reels have the option but power handles also can help a lot in the retrieval rate and increased leverage. I have them on every reel I have whether 4,5 or 6 to 1 gear ratio that they are made for.

 

Power handles increase leverage by slowing speed. They can't do both. They are longer, therefore require a larger diameter retrieval pattern.

[Sk8man]

I guess I'm not a physicist   All I know is that the fish come in pretty fast and I never have any problem getting leverage on them and I've never had to back up in the boat for any fresh water fish. I also learned a long time ago to keep constant pressure on them and not dip the rod any more than necessary or in any way give the fish slack.....slack is your worst enemy (assuming you have faith in your line and knot) As long as that line is connected to them they are going to get tired at some point if your drag is set right. For large fish you can also slow the boat speed a bit and make them work against the boat. As long as that line is connected you win. Patience is a virtue

Edited December 11, 2016 by Sk8man

[Yankee Troller]

Point the rod tip at a 400 copper pulling a 10" paddle and bring it in on a 6.1:1 reel. Now, do the same with a 5.3:1 or slower reel and you will see what I'm talking about with the loss of power. Running spoons the difference is not as noticeable as large paddles. I replaced all of my Tekota 800 last Summer with Daiwa Seagates. I'm a Daiwa guy even though I am not sponsored by them. Have been since I was a little kid and my father had Daiwa gear. I've sold all 4 Seagates, and I'm going back to my Tekotas in 2017. 

[TrophySeeker]

Every reel on my boat is a Tekota line counter. I love them.

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[zackblain]

I spooled up a Penn fathom lever drag 7:1:1 reel with 400' of copper this year after getting tired of the time it took to reel in with tekota 800s.

Like others have said already, it would be very very difficult to turn a mature King with that high gear ratio due to the lack of torque available. I'm going to keep if for finger lakes fish and Erie eyes, but it will not be going back to Ontario for Kings.