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Posted
1 hour ago, TileMan Dan said:

I solved the problem by giving them away.  Just run the otters now.

 

Amen

Posted
2 hours ago, TileMan Dan said:

I solved the problem by giving them away.  Just run the otters now.

 

Thats the best idea I heard yet :lol:

Posted

I guess I am sorry I started this topic, I am a little embarrassed  I think I will just give these things to some one I don't like,

Posted

Don't be embarrassed Dick......there is a learning curve for anything new we try.  The way I run things today is much different than the way I ran things 5 years ago.  Keep evolving to keep the sport interesting!  Nothing gets the "can't wait for spring" juices flowing like trying new gear. 

Posted (edited)

Dick -  When I started out  quite a few years ago with the TX 44's I had some difficulty getting them to run right too. I found that I had to play around with the positioning of the weights on the bottom and sometimes had to make adjustments when the water conditions changed (e.g. waves etc.). I also tried the modifications  suggested by Bloodrun but without success. I know some of the guys have mentioned that the boards should be run directly to the sides of the boat but  mine have always run somewhat toward the back but out away from the boat and that to me is the important thing as long as they are away from my other stuff and out of the boat turbulance I don't feel they have to run like "big boards" out there. They do need to cut through the water though and you should be able to achieve that by adjusting the weights (I keep a screwdriver handy) if running hardware that is reasonable. For most of my lighter stuff I have switched over to the Walleye boards and run 4 at a time and they handle most stuff other than the real heavy things (e.g. longer coppers etc which I run down the chute). If you point the tip of your rod toward the water during retrieval you'll eliminate most of the "diving" concern.

Edited by Sk8man
Posted

You got to be setting these boards up wrong. You don't need to adjust the weights. Try pointing your rod to the front of the boat and board will track according. What I find out is you really can't run the 44 to far away from the boat. I only use them for 400 and up to 600 coppers. Anything smaller I run 22's all lead cores up to 12 core are also ran on 22.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

I beg to differ that the boards don't need to be adjusted. That is the reason the TX 44's have the adjustable sliding weights at the bottom with the screws.  If you are running the same things off them day to day they may not need to be changed (when they work) but sometimes when either running heavier or lighter setups or perhaps dipseys are run during adverse wave conditions it can help to make adjustments.

Posted

 

Jason - I stand corrected you are right I was thinking of my Walleye boards not the 44's on that.  I had made adjustments in the weighting at the bottom of my 44"s way back when I first got them by making new drill holes that placed the weight right to the front edge of the plastic (half inch further forward?) and forgot that. My apology.

Posted (edited)

There are modifications suggested by Blood Run however the boards are manufactured by Church Tackle. Church have changed the forward clip to a locking clip sometime towards the end of last season .

On mine I made stainless pins for the back and cut the foam to allow me to stack the two weights one above the other at the front of the boards. I pull hard pulling muskie lures that dive like loons at 5 mph.

Edited by horsehunter

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