What are signs of needing transom replacment

[bandrus1]

What are signs of needing transom replacment

Simple as that... what are the things I need to test or look for 

[LakerTaker]

Depends on if you have an outboard or inboard/outboard and fiberglass vs aluminum. I only have experience with outboards and fiberglass. Typically you will see the transom flexing under power, or flexing when applying pressure to the outboard (by hand). You may also see large stress cracks in the corners where the transom meets the sidewalls. For fiberglass you could take a core sample using a hole saw to see if the inner wood is wet and/or rotted. Not all wet samples are bad, but you can usually tell by the condition of the wood. It's a progression that takes some time to become weak enough to need repair. Flex is definitely the main indicator. Amount of allowable flex is up for debate.


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[bandrus1]

Mine is aluminum and outboard.. I don't see any real problems but this spring when I put a new fish finders transducer on after the drill bit came out the wood on the bit looked like dark wet cork and that caused a little bit of concern. 

 

Am I over thinking it and just relax till you notice a problem?

Edited August 5, 2017 by bandrus1

[Frogger]

Bandrus mine is an aluminum that had wood inside. Two signs becam evident, trolling motor bracket continued to require tightening and water that was getting in came out cherry red. When I took the transom cap off wala there was the rot.


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[Frogger]

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[bandrus1]

36 minutes ago, Frogger said:

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I dread doing this, but when do you know a problem  becomes an actual problem? I guess I don't see any water getting in per say so that's a good sign

Edited August 5, 2017 by bandrus1

[MCF]

you will notice some transom flexing.  Some boats you can look at the wood from the inside.  If the boat is over 25 years old or so, it is a candidate.

[bandrus1]

Yea, hull is an 87... had new outboard but on in 2012.. I would think the marina would have brought it up if there was some issues no?

[Sk8man]

Ben - Frogger's boat is pretty similar looking to yours and he did a truly exquisite job of restoring that transom so if yours needs it he is the guy to really listen to

[bandrus1]

I really do t have much of a concern as I'm not really seeing much of an issue.. the one issue I'm having is in the back area (not to sure proper term) the calk keeps breaking so if I get a wave from the back side and it splashes in that area I end up getting water leaking down into the boat... easy bilge fix but no matter how much I call the hell outta that seem it still finds its way in... That's what made me worry 

[LakerTaker]

Yea, hull is an 87... had new outboard but on in 2012.. I would think the marina would have brought it up if there was some issues no?

Yeah you would think the marina would have said something, especially if they drilled new holes and noticed the dark rot. I noticed the transom of my fiberglass boat (1979 Seasprite) was wet, the previous owner drilled a hole through the splash well area and never sealed it. I let the boat sit and dry for a year, then sealed it. I haven't noticed any abnormal flexing but I'm sure it's going to become a winter project soon. Usually when it's bad, it's bad and you can see it. The question is when does it become dangerous. Your aluminum likely has enough structure to get you through the season if you don't notice much flex. It would be interesting if someone else could comment on a bad experience they had due to waiting too long.


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[Sk8man]

The thing is it doesn't take much of an opening for water to do its damage over time and much of the time the places are either hidden or obscured in some way so the internal damage itself isn't detected. The location of the "culprit' also isn't always where you might think either and the water can travel distances to the place it does the damage. A good example s on house roofs the water can be wicked across the roof to the opposite side and leak there without it being apparent where it is coming from. If you are concerned I'd have it looked at by someone trusted that is knowledgeable regarding transom repair.

Edited August 5, 2017 by Sk8man

[MCF]

If that transom seem keeps splitting, that is a sign.  Two weeks ago a Blue Fin of similar vintage came racing in with that issue, full split taking on water.

  

[JTowne]

If you have any bolts through the transom down low , put a wrench to them and tighten them right up , if it's too bad you will see water get forced out and drip as you compress the layers together. 

[relentless]

Thats mine. From the inside it looked good except for the bottom where water ran down the floor and hit it. Its pretty rough 3/4 of it is rotten. It supports the motor and outdrive. I didnt have much faith in the aluminum by its self. So i am replacing it. Definitely not an easy job, but better that having the transom rip off the boat. I has to have some structural support for an outboard. I would just replace it. If you are gonna keep the boat its worth it.

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[Roughrider IV]

Cracking in corners of splashwell is an indicator of rot. Stand on the outboard and try to flex it. My water entered under the transom cap, removed wood and poured sea cast, also ran 2 3/8 rods through the motor mounting holes and the back seat panel, cap was then sealed with caulk.


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[76 mfg inline6]

to  fix your running  water   though  transom seams is to use expoxy , as caulk  doees hold up well to exposed areas ,  2 to check transom rot  by checking  your drain plug area and check the color around the ring a dark color means it leaking or soft, sometime u can pull the transom apart  and fill with expoxy, or  replace the transom and use expoxy to bond  ,, depends when u catch it  , on my 76 mfg i/o  it 40 years  old had a small area i fixed with expoxy   hope it helps