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Crusader owners

phil2

phil2
in This Old Boat

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phil2

phil2

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Crusader owners

Looking at a boat with the 454 crusader. It has 432 hours all original. I need the ins and outs like life expectancy and so on. Been sitting since 2011 we brought it back to life sat ran great. Might need a carb cleaning but has all new hoses plugs wires, impeller. 

Paul Czarnecki

Paul Czarnecki

Posted
Posted
Crusader owners Looking at a boat with the 454 crusader. It has 432 hours all original. I need the ins and outs like life expectancy and so on. Been sitting since 2011 we brought it back to life sat ran great. Might need a carb cleaning but has all new hoses plugs wires, impeller. 

You can put upwards of 6000 hours on it without much concern.
Use good oil and change it regularly.


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  • 4 weeks later...
phil2

phil2

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Here is another one.. It has the heat exchanger on it checked the antifreeze in the resivour its good to -35. But I don't know if it is ok in freshwater before strainer has a hose attachment the original owner ran a funnel to and ran 5 gallons of non toxic antifreeze through while motor was running then shut off. Didn't pull any of the plugs. It was coming out the mufflers. Am I fine for winter? Been reading about it some people do it this way. Skimmer is full of non toxic..

Bozeman Bob

Bozeman Bob

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As long as the Non Toxic is rated for minus temps your fine doing it that way. There was a topic about this and how a block cracked bc of it freezing. Your block will not crack at any rate bc its a closed system with anit freeze. Your only concern would be the exhaust manifolds and possibly the transmission if raw water is used to cool that. I just remove the plugs on the back of the exhaust manifolds  and the raw water plug on the bottom of the heat exchangers. My raw water goes through the tranny and there are two plugs on that opposite the inlet /outlet hoses of the tranny which are removed as well. Air doesn't freeze.

rolmops

rolmops

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The non toxic is nowhere near as good as the regular anti freeze. It will not stop rusting and the material will freeze up in a chunky way. It is fine for putting in the water tank of an RV or a cottage toilet for the winter, but it is not good for an engine. You are much better off if you completely drain the raw water side of the heat exchanger.

Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted

Take it from me!!! I'm living proof that Shyt doesn't work!!! Maybe guys have been using with out a problem, if you want buy a gallon of that pink shyt pour in a cup and put it in the freezer you can't push a pop cycle stick in it. I blew the water out of my motor, no thermostat and put 3 gallons through just to make sure, last January I had to get in my boat and I gave the motor a look over only to have 2 pink stalagmites sticking out the block, so I did the cup test and it froze to a slush already in the teens and bone hard at 0* they claim it doesn't have the expansion properties of water. I called I think it was West Marine brand called Travelers. I called travelers up and explained what happened, they circle jerked around for a day then told me to read the instructions and it will say for sink traps or freshwater lines, NOT TO BE USED IN THE ENGINE AT ALL, I paid dearly trust me, read the bottle before you dump it in your water chambers. Why does it read for marine I asked the company rep, he said for cabin boats in the sink traps toilets, no where is it intended for the motor, he said so smart read the instructions, we are not liable for your block, sorry Mr. Frey. Look back a year back around January I have pics. to show you.

phil2

phil2

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Ok going to drain it sat just worried about the plugs that haven't been pulled out in a long time. Previous years were done the dump and run way but he kept it in a semi heated garage. So those bolts haven't moved in the 10 yrs he owned it.

phil2

phil2

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So what plugs do I need to pull? I got two on exchanger, 4 on manifolds. Do I need to pull the lower block plugs? Oil cooler u thing? And strainer is full of nontoxic? Sorry like I said I have had 250 hp outboards.new to me paying someone next year when it gets to a marina this year just want to get by.

lakebound88

lakebound88

Posted
Posted

Ok you're motors have coolant. So you have FWC

On my setup, I remove 4 plugs.

1- heat exchanger
2- u cooler
3- strainer
4- impeller pump
5- remove each hose that feeds from riser to heat exchanger, tip hoses down. Drain.
6- disconnect prop shafts( follow velvet drives manual on this one for good measure)
7- depending on silencer setup, winterize these as well.
8- shop vac dry bilge and she's asleep for winter. Many boatsbhave different setups but the concept is there. If you're super worried take her to a marina... Or. After draining, get some engine winterization antifreeze and install all items removed and run the motor. Wal-Mart sells the actual engine antifreeze( not the pink stuff) for 4 bucks a gallon.

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lakebound88

lakebound88

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So what plugs do I need to pull? I got two on exchanger, 4 on manifolds. Do I need to pull the lower block plugs? Oil cooler u thing? And strainer is full of nontoxic? Sorry like I said I have had 250 hp outboards.new to me paying someone next year when it gets to a marina this year just want to get by.

Pulling the plugs on your manifolds will drain engine coolant, not lake water. The two on the exchanger are side by side I presume, one is a drain for coolant, one is lake water, on mine, the one closest to the side of exchanger is lake water.

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Bozeman Bob

Bozeman Bob

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39 minutes ago, lakebound88 said:


Pulling the plugs on your manifolds will drain engine coolant, not lake water. The two on the exchanger are side by side I presume, one is a drain for coolant, one is lake water, on mine, the one closest to the side of exchanger is lake water.

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No, your exhaust manifolds are raw water cooled ,and the brass,bronze plugs are either on the back of them or underneath them in the back of them as well. And no,it is not referred to as a fresh water system,it is a closed cooling system. When you pull one of the plugs on the exchanger you either will get raw water or anti freeze coming out,if anti freeze just put fitting back in and remove the other one. No plugs are removed from the actual block as that holds all anti freeze,no raw water. 

Bozeman Bob

Bozeman Bob

Posted
Posted (edited)

Strainer probably wont self drain as the hoses are usually on the top. I either sponge it out or use a wet vac. Depending on what you have for a tranny there may be no need to remove prop shaft, I have Volvos and do not remove shafts.

Edited by Bozeman Bob
lakebound88

lakebound88

Posted
Posted
No, your exhaust manifolds are raw water cooled ,and the brass,bronze plugs are either on the back of them or underneath them in the back of them as well. And no,it is not referred to as a fresh water system,it is a closed cooling system. When you pull one of the plugs on the exchanger you either will get raw water or anti freeze coming out,if anti freeze just put fitting back in and remove the other one. No plugs are removed from the actual block as that holds all anti freeze,no raw water. 

Not true, systems vary, some have engine coolant in the manifolds and some have lake water. Like I stated earlier, systems can be different.. I'll stay out of this from here on out.

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Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, lakebound88 said:


Not true, systems vary, some have engine coolant in the manifolds and some have lake water. Like I stated earlier, systems can be different.. I'll stay out of this from here on out.

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Agreed Lakebound88, you must understand what your working with!! You just can't throw out info, if your not on the scene at the scene, I'm used to the old junk, I don't own anything new, so I can only comment on pre-90's raw water systems!!

phil2

phil2

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2 hours ago, Bozeman Bob said:

No, your exhaust manifolds are raw water cooled ,and the brass,bronze plugs are either on the back of them or underneath them in the back of them as well. And no,it is not referred to as a fresh water system,it is a closed cooling system. When you pull one of the plugs on the exchanger you either will get raw water or anti freeze coming out,if anti freeze just put fitting back in and remove the other one. No plugs are removed from the actual block as that holds all anti freeze,no raw water. 

Here is the pic out of my manual for my system. 

1026171020.jpg

Xxx

Xxx

Posted
Posted

Well it sure looks to me like Lake88 is 100% correct. The raw water exchanger cools the real type antifreeze and dumps out the riser then out of the system. Never to old to learn:lol:

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