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Posted

I would beg to disagree. It depends on the size of your hands and whether you have the special tools needed. Some people call me "Shrek" because my glove size is 4xl. That means that it is very hard for me to get my hands in the tight spots which is really important. I usually end up cursing and bleeding. With special tools, I mostly mean the one that stretches the bellows from the inside in order to fit around the bellows housing. Oh and don't forget to use the rubber cement to glue the bellows on ,so they stay in place. Don't try to do it outside in freezing weather. The rubber will get stiff and that makes everything harder.

Posted

Not difficult. Many you tube videos to help guide you thru process. Consider changing lower shift cable when all apart. Yes there are some special tools needed. Those costs offset by your savings though. Consider changing gimbal bearing also if bellows were leaking.


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Posted

I did mine, be prepared to bleed, swear like a sailer!!! I did it with out all the fancy tools. Took me about 3 hours to install them and about 1 1/2 hrs to remove the old ones and clean up the areas that the new ones are going to reside on or in. I also used the glue they recommend it also makes for a wiener sliding substance that will help you get them on to snap into position and attach the hose clamps that hold the bellows on. Just remember you have to be able to get on those clamp heads. I didn’t put them in the exact same spot. I put them in areas I could reach with the tooling I had, which was a 1/4” ratchet and extension with a swiveling sockets or a universal socket. Best of luck it can be done!!!

Posted

I’ll give it a try. Lol.


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Posted
1 hour ago, Fishnut said:

I’ll give it a try. Lol.


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What helped me was I heated the bellow up on the end with a heat gun   till it was warm, and I put the transom end on first then I lifted the outdrive out of the way to do that. Then used 1 clamp to hold it. Then I left the outdrive down and got it started and kept working it back till it was against either shoulder or notches, there’s something I remember that let’s you know when it’s right?? If you do the shifter bellow which I highly recommend. Take the little wire keeper off the Allen head out of the fork take cable loose up top and pull the cable out of the cable casing. Don’t remove the outer casing, then feed the cable through the old casing, then tread out the casing from the lower housing and pull it up over your new cable now feed your new casing over your new cable, this creates a path for your cable housing to follow, if you don’t do it this way you will be at your dealer having the shift cable installed. Remember how your shift boot came off and replace the boot in the same manner it came off

Posted

What year is your ride I’ll shoot ya the entire start to finish seloc manual how to. Is it a Merc or omc. I’ll do to your phone that way you have it right with you, it sounds way worse than it is. Being a poor honky tonk I learned the hard way:lol:

Posted
3 minutes ago, Jerryriggin 2 said:

One of the flexible extensions really seem to make this job go easier

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Yes you need a 1/4” 9/16 socket to remove the brass nut on the shift cable a 3/8 drive is to thick and it won’t fit on the nut on the right side due to the lower unit is drilled to close to the side. One of Merc’s better ideas.:envy:

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Posted

I sent my number pap. It’s a 95 Merc alpha 1. I would really appreciate it. I’m sure I could figure it out eventually but it will be easer with some advice from someone that has done it. Thanks Mike.


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Posted

Last year I had mine off and on at least 6 times, till I admitted defeat. I put the boat in forward position did everything by the book still had no foreword gear when motor started up. Finally I took it over to the mechanic across the bay from Henchens marina he knew right away he was 90% sure. He asked me if I had it apart I said no, was it rebuilt I said. He said this happened to him about 16 years ago with a new Merc unit, there’s a piece that can go either way inside, that will not allow the lower unit to go into foreword gear. Got a call a few hrs. later it’s ready and yes that part was in backwards. $150 later we are back on the water.

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