BATTERY CHOICE

[emtystringer]

I have a 70 hp and a 9.9 hp on my boat both with a charging system.I troll all the time with all electronics operating. I would like to know do i buy a DEEP CYCLE or just a regular good starting battery to run my boat.

[Knotlost Charters]

Depends on the load, the right way though is you need both. 

[MCF]

Unless you are running a bank of electronics and four electric riggers you are fine with a regular starting battery 

[emtystringer]

Irun 2 downriggers ,gps,fish finder,and radio which is no big load that my motors could not charge when operating. I just want one battery but know if a deep cycle is better than a reg battery for the way i am charging it

Edited February 1, 2018 by emtystringer

[Knotlost Charters]

You can go with just one battery, but it will shorten the life span of the start battery, a deep cycle is great but after a bit of age it will not have the umph to start your main because its designed different. If you insist on one battery get an over size start battery, and don't push it when it gets a few years on it. Problem with a deep cycle is when it gets to a point it will not start your main with no warning, all the while it will work fine running the other gear, but the oversize start will give a little warning if  you watch for it.

[Xxx]

If your going with one battery get yourself a group 31 battery, the group 31 battery is a industrial battery, most all heavy equipment and all the over the road trucks use at least 3 of these batteries, so they are built to take a beating. Plus your using your motors to charge your battery. Strictly deep cycle batteries are not meant to be charged with your alternator, they discharge slow so they need to be charged slow, plus deep cycle batteries are hard on alternators because they can’t take a fast DC charge therefore they have a tendency to blow diodes on the positive side of the rectifier. Now back to your main idea, the group 31 also has the threaded studs to attach your wires. I have a group 31 battery for a starting battery and a Optimax deep cycle just for my electronics separated by a Perko isolator. I was in business for 22 years having a starter and alternator shop, specializing in the heavy duty industry. 

[finsntins]

I run a 24 series dual purpose marine starting/deep cycle battery on my  boat.troll on a 5hp trolling motor with no charging system and it starts my 90hp main motor with no problem.i don't have elec.riggers,just stereo,f.f.and gps.i can go several trips before I put it on charge.its a napa battery which is made by decca.

[Xxx]

I know a lot of guys run those batteries, they don’t have the same properties and don’t have the discharge rate as a strictly deep cycle, the amp hrs. Simply aren’t there. They do serve the purpose if they work in the situation they are in that is a good thing. I’m more confident in using a battery that is designed to do its sole purpose. That’s my opinion. They make the duel purpose batteries they sell them!! 

[NymphO]

Good info. Was thinking the same question and was prepared to buy a deep cycle/marine just cause. I think I'll do what pap recommends. One 31 starting bat.

What about for a trolling setup that's 24v ? I assume it's best to do 2 12v deep cycle and charge them with appropriate charger ? Any specific reason to pick a certain group size ?

[Rookie Fisherman]

2 batteries is the way to go. Dedicated starter battery with isolator & house battery for electronics.

Isolator will allow alternator to charge through to extra battery but not allow draw from electronics etc on starting battery.  

Security of always having a fresh battery to start the main engine is good insurance.

 

As for the house battery type depends on electronics draw vs alternator output at troll. 

If the draw of the electronics is less or the same as the alternator output then an additional starting battery would probably be fine.

If the draw on the electronics is greater than the alternator then a battery with capacity would be better.

If the kicker has electric start wire it to the house battery, in this scenario a good dual purpose would be a good fit for the house battery.

 

 

Edited February 2, 2018 by rookie fisherman

[Xxx]

The newer kickers have better charging system's than the older ones, at wfo throttle a mere 5 amps is max. Why would one have riggers on the start battery?? Ive never had interference with electronics by using the riggers. I run 2 riggers all electronics all day on 1 dry cell battery. Id rather wind my riggers up by hand than walk home I've come home already on my kicker, due to mechanical issues, lower unit went south, but never a dead battery, I had it the other way at first and needed to fire up the main, I run a 130 amp alternator that I built, that I’ve switched out of 2 other boats, she wort her weight in gold, I can my main directly off the alternator if I had to. I understand not all can do this. But others have abilities that I don’t. So one hand washes the other, so to speak.

Sent from my LG-M327 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited February 2, 2018 by pap

[jimski2]

Over the years I have seen the battery taken out of the towing vehicle when the boat battery was dead. The next thing they do is buy a new vehicle battery. The pounding your battery takes in a boat shorts the plates out. Marine batteries are built with plate protectors to protect the plates from shorting out.

 

My trolling motor charges the battery along with the main engine. When the riggers are rolling the kicker motor lugs down with the extra load from the riggers.

Edited February 2, 2018 by jimski2

[Skidplate]

I've had the same two interstate batterys in my boat for 6 year and I don't take them because I fish all year and never had to charge them you get what you pay for.

[emtystringer]

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT\              

[NymphO]

I actually have an isolator from a previous life when I liked my car to shake with my stereo...don't judge.... It's a PAC-200. It's not a marine specific so will it work (secured out of weather) or do I get a marine grade ?

[Xxx]

I’d get the Perko marine one, you can isolate your batteries or if you get into a bind there’s a all spot so it will join all your batters, like Incase your main start battery bumped.

[Knotlost Charters]

On your isolator, there are some considerations that only you know... How secured out of the weather- there are lots of versions of this. 

 

When things go to POOP on a boat, that's when all the weak links show up and people get hurt.. So you are the only judge, but if you take guests out your subjecting them to your decisions so remember that for good or bad.  Most err on side of caution. Look at the  "add a battery kit" that's out there, it's really a great way to run two batteries on a small craft.

 

 

 

[NymphO]

Nuff said !

[Xxx]

I agree with the above post!! No way would i put a nonmarine isolater in there just for insurance purposes. Like mentioned above, when all that amperage gets shorted, the smoke will fly and the flames will follow. Be safe, not sorry over a few$$$. Hell I bet you have more lures in the box yet that cost you more than a new Perko switch!!

Sent from my LG-M327 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[NymphO]

I agree with the above post!! No way would i put a nonmarine isolater in there just for insurance purposes. Like mentioned above, when all that amperage gets shorted, the smoke will fly and the flames will follow. Be safe, not sorry over a few$$$. Hell I bet you have more lures in the box yet that cost you more than a new Perko switch!!

 

Sent from my LG-M327 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

 

 

Im working on the box... Lol

 

[Bozeman Bob]

Buffalo craigslist under boat parts has a Starkpower one listed for 850.00 I think I have bought about 5 boats over the years for less money per boat than that battery. I don't care if it supposed to last 10 years, that some serious jack for one battery. 

Edited February 3, 2018 by Bozeman Bob